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Drag Race Build SonySlave's 1990 GSX - The Ups and Downs of a 9-sec 1G

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Ashame that you pointed out an obvious flaw and were ignored and banned but their loss! Glad you used PayPal SonySlave! Awesome car!
 
Who are these guys? Just some random dudes with a welder and some balls to endanger someone's life?

Seriously people pay the people with the prerequisites to build this shit or that have pieces that have been tested.
 
I'm not sure Aaron. To be fair, the subframe looked really nice and was welded very nicely, so the welder certainly has the skill to build the product. I can't comment on the structural integrity, flaws, or anything like that. I was just an excited customer and was enticed by nice pictures and a decent price. All I know is that regardless of the potential safety issues, the control arms simply didn't work.

On a better note, I got the stock subframe back in the car last night and everything looks great again! I even got a nice surprise that I had never noticed before... I have poly bushings in the subframe! I thought I only had the poly control arm bushings! Score! Alignment on Friday then Haltech tuning with Early Performance on Saturday and we'll be ready to rock!
 
On a better note, I got the stock subframe back in the car last night and everything looks great again! I even got a nice surprise that I had never noticed before... I have poly bushings in the subframe! I thought I only had the poly control arm bushings! Score! Alignment on Friday then Haltech tuning with Early Performance on Saturday and we'll be ready to rock!

Cool Mike! Glad it's coming back together well. It's one of those things where after all the BSing around, the stock piece isn't so bad after all.
 
picked up a fp3586 went vband hopefully that help with the boost looking forward to your build..
 
^WTF?

Glad to hear it's coming together, its ok I get excited and buy shit I shouldn't like this 2001 BMW 540i I just got I totally understand.
I'm just glad you got your money back.
 
Car is ready! All tuned up, ready to hit the track! We'll just try to keep the guys in the Quick 32 class honest since my Racepak dash and hood exit exhaust force me into Quick 32.

All of my mods are in my profile! Don't mind the smoke at the end, I think the .100" oil feed restrictor is a little too big so I'm going to drop to a .080" before this weekend!

556awhp @ 34psi through the auto


617awhp @ 40psi through the auto
 
Ouch Warren! :p

In the end, I'm not willing to change my setup just for the Shootout because everything I have is legal for the True Street class at the local events I run here in Maryland. I've never considered the Shootout as a real 'racing' event anyway because of the ridiculous way DB schedules and runs the event. Like I said, if I can run well all weekend and keep the car together, I'd be plenty happy with that.
 
ouch, it sucks to hear about the subframe since I have one on order and didn't file a report in the first 6 months. glad you got it together though. good luck at the shoot out.
 
You might want to start the procedure to get your money back, I am in the same boat as you. Paid deposit, no communication in the last few months. Stay away from True Street Tuning and Fabrication. I am going to see what I can do about getting it reported as fraud.
 
Looks like Josh has responded.


"Hey man, there's no fraud, just didn't see your message there, my phone doesnt use page manager right

All the subframes are finishing up daily, had an issue with control arm placement that was resolved recently

Had to wait for a car that was together to make sure it was right

I apologize for the lack of communication, haven't had an actual computer for awhile LOL, bad few months in personal land."
 
See post #23, I got my money back and I still have the subframe and the two set of control arms he had me try, neither of which worked. I honestly don't think he even realizes that he lost the $1050 PayPal gave back to me. Most of the Facebook messages from him were very similar.

On another note, the turbo blew up after two runs at the Shootout due to my own lack of experience. I "fixed" the wrong thing after the smoking issue on the dyno after the hard 1-3 pulls. I replaced the .100" restrictor on the oil feed with a .080" believing the turbo was receiving too much oil. I should have fixed the terribly inadequate crankcase ventilation setup I had. But, the new turbo is already on its way and a new crank ventilation setup is being worked out. More results to come from the car at Import Revolution here in Maryland on August 23rd!
 
Which turbo did you have and which are you going with now?
It was a BorgWarner S300SX FMW 62mm. Decided to stick with the same turbo and fix the crankcase issue. It did so well on the dyno that I really want to give it a chance to show some really good 1/4mi numbers. I tried to buy a PTE 6266 1.15A/R TS T4 at the Shootout after the BW failure but it didn't work out. I asked the guy if they had everything and he said yes, no problem. I went back to my trailer and discussed with the fiance who agreed to do it. Went back to PTE and the guy did a complete 180* on me. "Well the only 6266 we have is the display on the table... and... uh... we don't... have the 1.15 twin-scroll T4 housing available here." Great. Needless to say I was pretty annoyed.

What did it run? I didn't make it to ohio untill late saturday night so I missed a lot.
The car ran 10.5@133 on the first pass bouncing off the rev limiter during each shift as the shift box shift points were set a bit too high. The problem with working til the last minute and not having time to test at the track beforehand. I hurt the turbo on that pass as when I tried to stall up on the converter on the second pass, it was a lot lazier than normal. Got the car on the 2-step eventually and took off. First and second gear were great, felt strong, then in third the car was hauling then a pop and the car fell on its face and smoke started pouring from the exhaust. Still did a 10.8@86 on the brakes. Turbo broke the shaft, destroyed the turbine wheel, and the compressor wheel even rubbed the housing a bit as well. No good.
 
Sorry to hear about your issues. I'm running a chromoly crossmember on mine that's made specifically for the auto awd. Fit great and I've been driving it without any issues for 8 months. If you want, pm me and I'll get you the contact info. Comes with a removable driveshaft loop, control arms and the crossmember . Last I heard he had 2 still ready to ship.
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We blew two 66mm Borg Warners in short order. Granted we live at altitude and likely overspin them trying to make the power we do. I am just not convinced the small shaft Borg Warners are designed to handle the shaft speeds, drive pressures and pressure ratios the crappy 4g63 puts them through. They seem to have a long shelf life on Hondas. A lot of locals have just had a tough time with the basic Borg Warners lasting at big boy boost. With that said, the large shaft Borg's kick ass and last forever on all the local cars.

Don't be surprised if that little 62mm turd fails in short order again. We only made it to the track a few times on both 66mm turbos.
 
That's unfortunate to hear as I really thought about jumping back into ball bearing with a PTE 6266 in a 1.15A/R TS T4 housing but couldn't stomach paying twice the price with my first baby coming in November. $900 was easier than $1800. I'm really hoping oil starvation was my issue and running 40psi, like I was, won't kill the turbo quickly as you say. This is the last turbo for awhile no matter what happens as some serious re-evaluation of priorities will happen once my son is born. The new turbo and catch can setup show up today so we'll see how things go over the next couple weeks!
 
We had the same issue you did on the dyno with heavy smoking on decel. No as bad as you though. The first one had a bearing failure and the second one would push a significant amount of oil through the compressor side. The first one cost us $525 and the second was a warranty. They were both off the shelf 91/79's. In a John Deere compressor housing and a .91a/r T4. With no oiling system changes we now have a BW S475 with a 83mm exhaust wheel and 1.10a/r T4 and since this spring the car has taken an ass whooping with no issue. It made just under 900hp last weekend on a dynojet. The dyno even being a load bearing dyno with the load turned up to 50% could not load the car well enough and even with an extra wastegatr spring we still had less boost than a few weeks ago at the track with a simple 1 bar spring. We just could not quite crack 900 with the boost staying low. With more load and the same boost level on back to back runs it made 40hp more. Stupid dynojets. That is twice that same dyno has done that to the same car. Six years, different setups and an eddie current and same result. No boost. We have since been tuning on a mustang dyno.

Large shaft turbos are where it is at. They come with all sorts of financial, packaging and racing restrictions but, they are just tough. I myself gave up after snapping two small shaft Holset HX52's at 44psi. One made it seven years at 30-36psi. It did not last long at 44psi. The replacement did okay redialing the car back in. Once it was back in the mid 40's it had nearly the same failure.
 
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How can you tell the difference between a long shaft turbo and a short shaft?

I'm currently in the market for a turbo and I've narrowed it down to three below. Would someone be able to give me some info on the diffrence in A/R's?

Borg Warner S362 S300SX3 FMW S300 62/68 Billet 62 - .63 or .82 A/R T3
Bullseye Power S362 Turbocharger Extended Tip .70 A/R T3
Precision T & E PT6262 CEA Turbocharger .63 or .82 A/R T3.

Thanks
Shaun
 
Large and small, not short and long. Heavy duty framed turbos turbos are usually large shaft. Which refers to the diameter, not length. Basically, semi truck, industrial, tractor, earth mover, big ass turbos. Medium duty turbos have a medium sized shaft(what we still call small). The large frame ones are generally as big as your fingers.

All three you listed are medium duty(small shaft) turbos.
 
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