I've been running a fidanza in a 7 bolt for about 6 months/7k miles with a act 2600 ppm and street disk. No issues. Removed transmission recently due to breaking some gears, inspected the clutch and flywheel and everything seemed fine. I just put locktite on flywheel bolts nothing else was done.

Thank you

I've been reading about all this extra work. In real life it's not that it's too much work. it's just one less thing I want to have to do and buy.

I know they make great products that's not the question. I just want to drive the car as soon as possible and don't want to have to wait for a trans plate and bottem tap and then buy longer bolts.

My old 92 tsi had the same setup, 2600 and fidanza flywheel. Always enjoyed it. Clutch engagement seemed very short and jumpy, but i never had a problem with the setup.

Not a fan of the aluminum flywheel for any car looking to do lots of launches. My buddy had one on a full weight 550whp 2g. We ended up "donut"ing the flywheel during a tuning session. Completely sheered the center mounting area away from the rest of the flywheel. Never seen anything like that in my life. Might of been a manufacturers defect, but aluminum cannot tolerate a lot of heat before it starts to weaken.

That's an incredible amount of heat, well beyond what I would figure is normal operation.

This happened from standard street tuning/hot lapping the car. I couldnt find pictures of it on my computer but I found one on the web of what it looked like. Not surprised its also a fidanza. Another reason is I would much rather go with a solid face flywheel which has a better torque transfer rating vs dimples (similar to brake rotors.)

I used the plate from the auto/longer bolts/Loctite on mine. The flywheel bolts never came loose! but the starter ring decided to separate from the rest of the flywheel and sent some little bolts flying around in my bell housing that ended up finding there way out by making holes in the sides of the bell housing. The Fidanza flywheel is made up of many pieces , the starter ring, the flywheel , the friction surface all the little screws and bolts there's about 50 pieces of potential shrapnel spinning around in there. I switched to an ACT flywheel and I feel better that with 1 piece there's less to possibly go wrong.

Thanks for all the input. I thought I had my mind made up. The aluminum is probably just for a race machine and not a city streets driver. Now I'm leaning towards the ACT. It seems it's tried and true

I've been running a Fidanza 8lb for years. Not a whole lot of km (12k) but a lot of stop-go since it's mainly driven on our cruise nights. Only now is it seeing in excess of 300hp.

It's true, it's a lot of components. A one-piece unit would definitely be preferable, especially since all the contact parts are of different metals than the flywheel itself is and have different heat expansion properties. That being said, I haven't had an issue. I'm regretting the 4puck kevlar 3.2 clutch of theirs though.. too harsh, not enough engagement slip, have to come off the line at above 1200rpm in order for it not to chatter. However, it's held up for 12k so far and still doesn't slip even at 21psi in third on a b16g.

When it dies, full faced street disc.

I have recently run both a fidanza flywheel (for 4 months now) and then changed over to an ACT (3 weeks ago), after driving both back to back I would absolutely recommend a streetlite flywheel over a fidanza. The difference in acceleration is negligible (Only change during teardown was new TOB, clutch fork, pivot ball and flywheel) But there is a significant reduction in vibration while in gear and deceleration (which is a large problem with our cars, I have since discovered that there is almost none with the streetlite whereas the fidanza the vibration was so bad I would just put the car in neutral.)

I can't speak for longevitiy or reliability because both have less then 5k on them. but from a daily driver standpoint I prefer the streetlite.

There was also a lot of chatter, especially in reverse.

Just noticed this was for a JDM, I'm not sure if it applies but I would still like to provide my input on the two flywheels back to back.

Good luck.
Joe

I have a fidanza flywheel. Have about 30k miles on it. I wish I would of got the act flywheel. Been having a p0300 code ever since I installed the flywheel. I have replaced cam and crank sensors. Last thing I was gonna try is run a fluidamper. I highly recommend not getting the fidanza.

well my brother runs a fidanza flywheel with a comp clutch stage 4 with no problems. Hes had this setup for over a year now and his car made 422 whp. Also with some track passes

I've been running a fidanza flywheel for 2 years 20k miles ish and i dont recommend it. Noticed a drastic change in clutch feel and engagement. I put a new friction plate on it before install with a new southbend clutch kit, engine revs alot quicker over a stock flywheel but it tends to hamper gear engagement noticeably. Stick with a heavier flywheel IMO

The Act flywheel is only a few pounds heavier and trust me, the feel is better as is the vibration. I guess most of the honda guys or 420a people wouldn't mind (Everyone I know has solid mounts and open exhaust, Their cars vibrate down the road rather then roll), but My car has 85,000 miles on it with metal shifter bushings, AGXs and stock springs, with an ACT 2600 clutch kit and the streetlite there is barely any vibration to speak of.

I have seen a lot of threads with people saying it's normal for our cars to vibrate, maybe so with a full 3" exhaust and poly or solid mounts; but mine drives just as smooth as my old Monte SS, and it's a lot faster. It comes down to preference, I prefer a nice ride and I'm not willing to sacrifice that for a few extra horsepower.

Hopefully this thread (When I was doing research I couldn't find anything more recent then 2011) Will help people make their decision.