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2G Radiator fan wont turn car over heats at ideal

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banichulo

Probationary Member
27
0
Dec 25, 2007
Sanchez, Massachusetts
some one please help:cry:. my radiator fan wont turn on my car over heats at ideal i turn the heater on and it goes back to normal, this is driving me crazy cause i have no a/c and its summer time. i replaced the thermostat thinking that was the problem but no, the i tried a different radiator still nothing:aha:, i inspected the relay to see if they where wet or damage but they look good. some one please help I'm tired of driving around with my heater on, I'm performing a radiator flush today to see if that helps. its a 98 gst by the way:banghead:
 
Yeah, I would definitely check the switch first as mentioned above. I doubt it's the motor since you still have the sturdy stock fans. The check the fan motor, you will need to apply 12V to the wires accordingly. Good luck dude.
 
This should help narrow down the problem... I think that I would start at the fan before the relays. Just because it seems easier.. Please provide feedback... Good Luck! :D

** PRINT AND FOLLOW **

<2.0L Engine (Turbo) and 2.4L Engine>

1. Only the radiator fan does not operate.
l Check fusible link No. 7.

2. Only the condenser fan does not operate.
l Check dedicated fuse No. 9.

3. The radiator fan and condenser fan do not operate in the low speed mode, but operate otherwise.
l Check the radiator fan motor relay (LO) and condenser fan motor relay (LO).
l Check the engine control module.

4. The radiator fan and condenser fan do not operate in the high speed mode, but operate otherwise.
l Check the, radiator' fan motor relay (HI) and condenser fan relay (HI)
l Check the engine control module

INSPECTION RADIATOR FAN MOTOR CHECK

(1) Check to be sure that the radiator fan rotates when battery, voltage is applied between terminals.

(2) Check to see that abnormal noises are not produced while motor is turning.

One more pic...
 

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okay so my car has a few problems that i cant figure out. so my car ideal at about 2000rpm some times a little higher. some times when i try to turn the car on it wont turn on i can smell gas coming from my vents. the check engine light comes on i checked it and it gave me a p120 tps, i replaced the tps spent $144.00 on a new one and it got worst, i taught hard about the problem today and came to the assumption that its my ecu i had a apexi afc neo installed but its been unplugged for a while cause i was acting funny the harness is still attach to the ecu wires could this be the problem
 
there is a fan switch at the bottom of your radiator you need to replace it...
2g's don't have this fan switch. The fans are controlled entirely by the ECU based on sensors. I would test/replace the 2 wire engine coolant temp sensor since it is a major signal the ECU relies on to adjust fans. The ECU adjusts fuel mixture dramatically based on this sensor also (among other sensors).

Here's a 2g fans overide mod: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/273645-cooling-issue-plus-wiring-them-up.html
 
I will assume that you fixed P0120... (see image)

NOTE
After replacement, the closed throttle position switch and throttle position sensor should be adjusted.

**PRINT AND FOLLOW**

CLOSED THROTTLE POSITlON SWITCH AND THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR ADJUSTMENT

NOTE
When using the scan tool, proceed to service data item 26 and observe the ON/OFF changes to the closedThrottle position switch instead of performing ohmmeter test. If the scan tool is not available, follow the steps bellow.

1. Disconnect the connector oft the throttle position sensor.

2. Connect an ohmmeter between terminal 3 (closed throttle position switch) and 4 (sensor ground) by using jumper wires.

3. Insert a feeler gauge with a thickness of 0.45 mm (.O 177 in.) between the fixed SAS and the throttle lever.

4. Loosen the throttle position sensor mounting bolt; then turn the throttle position sensor body fully counter clockwise.

5. In this condition, check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4.

6. Slowly turn the throttle position sensor clockwise until the point at which continuity between terminals 3 and 4 changes to non-continuity is found.
Tighten the throttle position sensor installation bolt at that position.

7. Connect the connector of the throttle position sensor.

8. Connect the scan tool to the data link connector (16 pin).

9. When not using the scan tool, proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect the throttle position sensor connectors and connect the special tool. Test harness set, between the disconnected connectors.

(2) Connect a digital voltmeter between’the throttle position sensor terminal 2 (sensor output) and tertntnal 4 (sensor ground.)

10. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine)

11. Check the throttle position sensor outpuP voltage.

10. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine).
Standard value: 400-1,000 mV

12. If there is a deviation from the standard value, check the throttle position sensor and the related harness.

13. Remove the feeler gauge.

14. Switch OFF the ignition switch.
 

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luv2ralley quick question regarding the fans....

On my gsx I can turn on the passenger fan via link and it works flawlessly....
But driving around I watched my temp gauge keep creeping up and up...fan never turned on any ideas?

Again fan turns on via link, but not automatically...
 
Test/replace the 2 wire engine coolant temp sensor. This is the one for the ECU which controls the stock fans (the single wire one is only for the dash temp gauge).

Are you running stock fans? If not, did you connect the aftermarket fans to both the high and low fan relays?
 
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swap the fans and see is the other turns on as well on a know good connection, things like motors, relays sensors and stuff that moves are the most ofter cause of a problem cause they are what is doing the work.
 
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thanks for the info guys but i cant seam to get the tps adjusted properly it ideals really low, and my car turns off at the worst of places like in the middle of traffic fml. its really embarrassing i took it to a local shop and they had no clue on how to do it. By the way i found out what was wrong with my fan, i had a AFC NEO installed it pissed me off so i unplugged it and left the harness still attach to the ECU so the Karma wire was not hook up to the ECU i solder it back to normal and it worked.
 
1998 GST: Stock motor 125,000 miles, HKS BOV( recirculated), cheap ebay intake, Apexi 3" exhaust ( the only Mods concerning the engine)


Lately i have been asking for a lot of help with my car and that's cause i need help. So my car some times wont start i smell a lot of fuel and when it does turn on i have to give it gas and it sounds like its stuttering, i cant seam to figure it out. i have done all the basic maintenance, i change the coolant, the oil, spark plugs and wire, filter, i even tried a new fuel pump oem, and still the same problem everything i do and all the money i spend for nothing. I'm guessing is the ECU because like i said i have checked everything. my Idell spikes to 2ooorpms, its stays there and some times it drops back to normal or a little higher but that's after i run the car in heavy traffic where i have stop and go a lot. when the ideals spikes i tend to rev the engine higher then normal driving conditions and it seams to go down after i burn some fuel. i know for a fact that the engine is running rich cause i can smell the fumes from the exhaust, I'm really getting tired of this and want to get to the the bottom of this. there are times where the car runs better then normal and then there are times when it just runs like complete shit, the shit part is more then the better.
 
some one please help:cry:. my radiator fan wont turn on my car over heats at ideal i turn the heater on and it goes back to normal, this is driving me crazy cause i have no a/c and its summer time. i replaced the thermostat thinking that was the problem but no, the i tried a different radiator still nothing:aha:, i inspected the relay to see if they where wet or damage but they look good. some one please help I'm tired of driving around with my heater on, I'm performing a radiator flush today to see if that helps. its a 98 gst by the way:banghead:
Have ran into this on both turbo & non turbo. Have had fan fail due to a coolant leak. Check for coolant leaks. Have found this to be problem on both turbo & non turbo 2gs. Fan started functioning again. They were just small pinhole leaks. I found a small coolant leak from house down by the turbo that was causing fan failure. $5 later replacing a small house and fan kicked on at temp
 
1998 GST: Stock motor 125,000 miles, HKS BOV( recirculated), cheap ebay intake, Apexi 3" exhaust ( the only Mods concerning the engine)


Lately i have been asking for a lot of help with my car and that's cause i need help. So my car some times wont start i smell a lot of fuel and when it does turn on i have to give it gas and it sounds like its stuttering, i cant seam to figure it out. i have done all the basic maintenance, i change the coolant, the oil, spark plugs and wire, filter, i even tried a new fuel pump oem, and still the same problem everything i do and all the money i spend for nothing. I'm guessing is the ECU because like i said i have checked everything. my Idell spikes to 2ooorpms, its stays there and some times it drops back to normal or a little higher but that's after i run the car in heavy traffic where i have stop and go a lot. when the ideals spikes i tend to rev the engine higher then normal driving conditions and it seams to go down after i burn some fuel. i know for a fact that the engine is running rich cause i can smell the fumes from the exhaust, I'm really getting tired of this and want to get to the the bottom of this. there are times where the car runs better then normal and then there are times when it just runs like complete sh**, the sh** part is more then the better.



(For the starting problem, fans not working and the gas smelling thing) Sounds like the temperature sensor is bad, have you check or change it?, it's the 2 wire sensor in front of the thermostat housing.

Conserning to the Idle problem, looks like your ICS (idle control sensor) is bad, test it and replace it if you need to.
 
does your fan come on with the a/c - try this - unplug the sensor on the fan and turn on the a/c - does the fan now come on?

also on your idle - check the vacuum lines - biss screw for leaks , idle air control valve for resistance and also if all those are good check the ecu - could be the ecu crapping out - caps leaking, etc.

Good luck!
 
Dinosaur of a post, but figure I could just piggyback it a little, so i installed a cx racing radiator and two slim line fans into my 2g, drove it 20-30 miles in stop and go and traffic and on the highway at speeds under load. Never ever got warm, until today when it almost pegged itself at max temp before I could get off of the road, spraying coolant out of my custom overflow. Turned the engine off left the key on. Fans didn't turn on so I waited for it to cool, filled it full of coolant, and jumped the high fan relay and drove it home with almost no issue (got a little hot still, maybe was still low on coolant). I jumped the cts and they didn't come on, tested the relays using the horn relay and they all came up fine, so what do I do next? It's annoying that I put $350 into the cooling system for it to overheat when it didn't even get warm stock
 
Obviously it's the fans. Try hooking the stockers back up and see if that works. You realize the other fan turns on when you push the a/c button, no jeed to jump? Also, what else did you do for $350?! You can buy a cx rad and slim fans for $150. If you didn't have problems before the swap, there's your answer. Don't forget those aluminum rads take more Coolant than stock.
 
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