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Godspeed 20g turbo

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Still better off with a 14b. I went 14.1 @ 113 on my 14b at 20 psi on full weight, street tires FWD and then 13.1 @ 110 same setup with drag radials. That was with a non rebuilt 14b I bought from the classifieds for $100 shipped.

14.1 on a 14b and fwd is nice time. Got to love the 14b turbo and they are so cheap too. :rolleyes:
 
So what mods should a 2g have to run the godspeed 20g? Injector size and so on. Do the internals like pistons need to upgraded? Read all this and ordered the turbo just as an experiment to settle my curiosity, if it dies then so be it ill just get a better version but to give it a fair shot i need to know every upgrade i have to run.
 
What mods did you find in your search for a normal 20g turbo? Take those, and add an engine rebuild for when the junk implodes and works its way through the engine.
 
Lol ya I hear they are a horrible choice. Engine rebuild is no big deal if it comes to it. From what I gather I thought I'd try intercooler, 255 pump, fuel pressure reg upgrade, maf upgrade, 750 injectors, wideband, boost controller and the apexi safc. But it's on a stock block which is why I ask. What else is a must? And I know I'm running the risk of crap turbo and blown engine LOL
 
Maybe ill buy and see what happens...if it doesnt hold up than im only out 300 bucks. If it last a year i come out ahead.

Just so im clear on this i posted this out of ignorance and after some thought and some more reading, I made a smarter choice and had a vendor on here build me a 20g.:D please no more flaming.LOL
 
People in the Lsx community are taking these rather cheap china junk into the mid 9s. If I'm going to more than 300$ for a small 20g I'm just gonna ahead and buy a bigger turbo. I'm greedy when it comes to hp. 400whp is slow around my part of the country. If you're not running sub 6.40s in the 1/8th your car is considered slow. It's to easy for these v8 guys to strap an eBay turbo on their car and run high 5s. I'm building a fox with a 6.0l in it and an s480 with a ls9 cam and if it doesn't run faster than 6.20s I'll be pissed. This is also a th400 with a rmvb and transbrake. I plan on pushing the stock bottom end of my dsm to it's breaking point. My b series ek hatch ran high 8.0s on street tires on only 10lbs of boost. This was on a 57trim and it made 405whp corrected on a dyno dynamics dyno on 20lbs and 110. It was mildly built but it was still making power at 9400rpms. Stock ctr cams with dual valve springs and ti retainers. It was a sleeved 2.0l with first setup before I made a 3rd at 9400rpms back down to 2nd gear and sent a rod through the block at 15lbs and pump gas. IMHO go big or go home. 300$ isn't shit to spend on a turbo that can make 400whp evenif it lasts for 6 months. You dsm'ers would rather spend 800-1000$ for a MHI turbo instead of manning up and buying something that will make 400whp at 20lbs with the potential to make 500+ On water injection or race fuel. My 230$ 20g makes 28lbs at 4000 rpms. My other eBay took a shit on me so I just bought another one to get the car back on the road. If it can make it long enough to get my mustang on the road which the start up date is Christmas or sooner I'll be bouncing up and down. I'll be strapping a hx40 on my dsm after that bc I'll have another car to drive. Depending on how well my mustang runs I might yank the motor and do a piston/rod combo in the talon. I've got 3000$ in my talon but it came with a fuel setup and hks cams in it already. I plan on spending another 2500$ on this car and be done with it. I've already sunk enough money into the mustang and it's still a only a cam only motor. These motors are proven to make 600-700whp through a th400 on stock long block and an eBay turbo. You get what you pay for in the long run. eBay turbos are junk IMO but my car seems to be running just fine with one atm. I've got a lot of learning to do because Ive only been building cars for 7 years. I'll post dyno numbers and track times soon. Honestly, just mind your own business when it comes to building a car. If someone wants to skimp on parts it's their choice. If you have experience with a certain setup feel free to post your experience and if you don't move onto the next thread. End rant :) feel free to criticize my setups and opinions. Thanks off reading and letting me vent.

Crowder
 
My fox looks very similar to this fox coupe. Dark shadow grey ftw! It'll have either gold weld magnums on it or a polished set of ccws sp500s or ccw classics.
 

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Couple things - First, this thread was dead for over 2 years. We really didn't need you to bump it for a soliloquy on your Mustang.

Second, this is a public subforum specifically for new members in need of direction and did technical advice. Constructive criticism is part of that. If you don't like it, you are free not to participate.

Third, endorsing this garbage because a community of larger engines (thus lower PRs/shaft speeds) get away with "X" is helping no one. You yourself have had one come apart. That it wasn't catastrophic was sheer luck.

We have 122CID, we typically ran much higher boost and as result put a ton more stress on the same size turbos as a 360 cube motor that pulls max flow out of a 20G size compressor at only 12psi.

If anyone needs to mind their business, it's you till you learn more. Start your own build thread if need be to stay occupied in the mean time.

Keeping these knockoffs profitable for shoddy vendors makes units from Quality manufacturers more expensive as they are splitting the market/demand.

Before the inevitable self-righteous response.. again this is a form for helping those new to performance modification.

What you are doing is ignorant and irresponsible.

A >5oz piece of metal turning 150,000 rpm coming apart in a non-burst containing turbine housing is like a small bomb going off. Aside from expenses due to damage there is a very real risk of injury or death to the driver and bystanders.
 
Dsm people are worse than Subaru guys.
Don't like our member base? Don't post here. Nobody's forcing you.

Obvious troll is obvious. Reviving a 2+ year-old thread to add useful information is fine...doing so to start a flame war isn't tolerated.
 
OK, I had to find out for mysrlf. I purchased a 20g which turned out to be a GodSpeed turbo when I opened the shipping box. Had a well known turbo machine shop check it out for me....the internals are a mixed parts bin of T3 - TD05 bits. The thrust bearings were of poor material. The balance of the turbo was pretty well out of spec. Lastly, the exhaust flap covered the tiny exhaust port which would have trouble expelling large quantities of boost. Ebay turbos like these probably work but are not well made unfortunately. I know some of you have GS turbos and have been fortunate. I unfortunately am unwilling to risk my $9,000 motor on a GodSpeed 20g turbo from ebay.
 
it just keeps going and going...

this thread i mean.
so how much money did you waste to give us this generically detailed review for your first post here?
including how much was the "inspection" at the "well known turbo machine shop?
any pictures?

Hey Justin, is the compressor wheel any good? who makes it?
 
OK, I had to find out for mysrlf. I purchased a 20g which turned out to be a GodSpeed turbo...I unfortunately am unwilling to risk my $9,000 motor on a GodSpeed 20g turbo from ebay.

Nobody I know who spends 9k on a motor would ever buy an ebay turbo...Just sayin.

On the topic of Ebay turbos, I'm interested in the quality of the Turbo Lab of America 20g compresser wheel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121402269946?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'm considering picking one up in the near future to build a bastard 20g out of a spare MHI Evo 3 16G I have.

Pair that up with a 20G TD05H style compressor cover and then you might have something that's worth a damn.
 
On the topic of Ebay turbos, I'm interested in the quality of the Turbo Lab of America 20g compresser wheel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121402269946?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'm considering picking one up in the near future to build a bastard 20g out of a spare MHI Evo 3 16G I have.

Pair that up with a 20G TD05H style compressor cover and then you might have something that's worth a damn.


I built my TDo5H-20g using Turbo Lab part's, I'm using their cast wheel and 11 blade turbine shaft. I had all the parts shipped to me, then had a local reputable turbo shop balance the wheels prior to my assembly. I've been running it in my car for almost a year or approximately 5000-6000 miles now, I periodically rev to 8k, boost is at 25psi, Logged Air flow is around 40-45lbs a min.

Just recently I had my intake off and checked the shaft play out of curiosity... To no surprise, the turbo is still in great condition.
I know 5000 miles is not much of a endurance test by any-means, but it's a better test result then what most people provide.

The only regret i have... Is, i wish i would of spent the extra money and bought the billet extended tip compressor wheel.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Did you use a Turbo Lab bearing housing that's upgraded for the larger 18mm thrust collar? Also, where are you feeding the turbo from, and are you using a restrictor?

I've always read the billet compressor wheel didn't really yield much of an improvement over a typical cast wheel. Although, opinions seem to vary on the topic.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Did you use a Turbo Lab bearing housing that's upgraded for the larger 18mm thrust collar? Also, where are you feeding the turbo from, and are you using a restrictor?

Yeah, I'm using the 18mm thrust collar/ The turbo lab center section with the 20g on my car currently. If you're going to rebuild your MHI TDo5h 16g with the 18mm thrust collar, You'll have to do a "thrust collar modification" to the center section. pretty easy, If you YouYube search "MHI 16g 20g turbo rebuild" Austin from Turbo Lab goes over the whole rebuild process.


As for oiling, I'm still using the factory OEM metal oil feed line from the head (It has a built in restrictor). I had bought one of those Kinugawa oil feed line kits off ebay that come with a restrictor fitting, not sure exactly what size the restrictor is (i'd assume that it would be equivalent to the stock line) I never installed it, Instead i ended up using the oil line from the kit to relocate my oil pressure gauge sending unit after having sending unit failure issue's due to engine vibration.

I been running good oil, 15w50 with a high ZDDP rating, I also have a decent size oil cooler. Eventually i want to pick up another turbo oil supply line and run it from the filtered side of my oil cooler sandwich plate off of my oil filter housing.

I've always read the billet compressor wheel didn't really yield much of an improvement over a typical cast wheel. Although said:

Billet wheel VS. cast wheel
, what you've read is correct, you probably won't see much of a performance/airflow difference from the two. There will be a slight difference in strength and weight.
The extended tip compressor wheel is where you'll see the 10-15% airflow improvement over the OE style wheel.
 
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I have a turbo labs 20G as well that managed to survive full engine oil starvation/ oil pump failure. This 20G has a generic 3 inch intake. Was a badass turbo for the 300 miles I got to put on it before the oil pump seized up. Spool up sounded like a semi truck on that thing.
 
Not that I support Chinese turbos. However being in a bind over 5 years ago I purchased the godspeed super 20g. I had been running it ever since. It has seen boost levels from 15psi to 28psi. It has been running boost at 25psi plus for over half the it's life so far. The turbo still to this day is good and have no shaft play or issues of any kind.

Yes I push the turbo as my following mods are as such.

SMIM
1200cc injectors
hks 272 cams
ferrea dual valve spring
sodium filled valves
e85
255 rewired
on and on and on.

I went through three clutched with this turbo as well in one summer. From an OEM, act and spec. Finally gave up and picked up a quartermaster twin disk to put that issue to rest.

I had never planned on running this turbo for this long, but it's still going so I might as well go with it.

I would be happy to post some numbers as well, unfortunately I have not had it to the dyno or track. Therefore, all I have is log information and would need to review those logs to give you accurate numbers of air flow etc...
 
I have been running a tdo6h4 20g with a turbo lab billet extended tip wheel that I bought from a vendor on this site for the past month or so. So far I am very impressed with it. So far ive logged over 40lbs/min at 20-22 psi without breaking a sweat.

Anyway, why not spend a couple hundred more and buy a turbo built with quality mhi parts while supporting local vendors? Just my $.02
 
Not going to get into the debate of buying name brand or from a known vendor. Not my point here. I already explained myself that this was a turbo I purchased in a pinch when I was out of funds and hadn't counted I needed a turbo.

Additional information. I am reviewing my log right now and I am see on the godspeed super 20g. It's flowing 53.6lbs a minute at 28psi.
 
You have a log log you can post? If your setup is calibrated properly that means your currently flowing more then the advertised amount of the new 68hta. At almost 54lbs per minute that's that in the neighborhood of the green. Someone correct me if im wrong but that means if the boost level was raised this turbo could possibly generate as much flow as the discontinued green xl?
 
I certainly can try to post the log. I have no place to upload it or host it though. I can assure you that it is dialed in correctly.

Global is correct for e85 on 1200cc injectors. Dead time is dialed in where combined fuel trim hover over zero give or take and air flow per rev is correct. Then additional information tuning cruise is very simple as we all know on link. Then the cruise changes were made. idle was then confirmed and slightly tweaked to keep the given values where they should be.

At which point I used my prior tune for the wot section of the maf sliders and the fuel slider to go do WOT pulls. I record with a camera the wideband, boost and rpm gauge as well as log the wideband, estboost, rpm and maf raw hz. I have a formula in a excel spread sheet where I input the values at every 500 rpm and it will tell you how much to increase or decrease the maf slider in percentage This normally brings the maf setting for boost and estboost with in a psi give or take of real boost. Pretty much bring the a/f where they need to be. If I am patient I will do another pull where I plug in the value into the spreadsheet. Byt this time the changes become so small some aren't worth making. At this point in time I dial in the a/f using the fuel sliders.

So although I don't have a place to upload or files I can assure you they are correct. In all honesty I would like to refine the tune a bit more as I am an OCD MF'er with my tune. There are a few spots still where the maf can be dialed in a bit more as it's more than 1psi off comparing estboost and real boost (it's off no more than 2 psi in a small section spanding maybe a couple hundred rpm). However, this airflow from the turbo was not used or taken in that range as I didn't want to throw off or give in correct information here.

As I said I do not support the Chinese turbo purchasing, but I certainly wont slam it either. Can't be a hypocrite here. I simply just want to provide the information regarding based on my experience with this turbo for the last 5 years.
 
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