ez out and a drill.

weld a nut on that and take it out

The second issue is that biznatch is SERIOUSLY stuck. I couldn't break it loose with an impact wrench or a 4 foot breaker bar (that's what ended up stripping it). I'm trying not to ruin my Fluidampr in the process since it's brand new..... the arp bolt was rounding off drill bits so an ez out isn't gonna work I don't think.... I'm going to try to heat it up tomorrow and see if I can bang a 9mm socket on it.

The four bolts that hold the unit to the crank sprocket?

pauleyman said:

The four bolts that hold the unit to the crank sprocket?

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Yes

you cant take the 4 bolts out to get the damper off. arp arent you average bolt. not gonna be able to drill it that easy.that being said the surface is hard and getting through it is a b****. get a black 3/8 socket or one size smaller but for the impact gun and hit it until your hear a solid thunk. then hit it with an impact gun

also look into flameless heat that should workit uses electricity ti get the boly red hot then you take it out with an impact wrench

You would have to sacrifice your cover but you could set this up like a timing belt job, remove the center bolt and the entire balancer and sprockert. Then take it to a machine shop

to be truthfully honest if your pulling your old motor and you want the best possible chance of getting not screwing or scratching the shit out of your pulley would be to just undo the crank shaft bolt I did that same thing two weeks ago trying to crack the crack shaft bolt.yes it involves more work then one may want but lets put it this way do you want to crack chip or ruin that beautiful work of art. I mean lets not forget it keep the harmful harmonic out of your engine, that just my 2 cents

pauleyman said:

You would have to sacrifice your cover but you could set this up like a timing belt job, remove the center bolt and the entire balancer and sprockert. Then take it to a machine shop

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Sorry pauley you stole my thunder . I didn't refresh till I posted but yah best way is to just take out middle bolt.

Ok. The motor in the car is just the the bare block with crank in it. So elaborate on what your saying here. Because I think getting this bolt out is a lost cause.

Do I just keep the crank from spinning and put a 1/2" in the center and loosen it????

Wait a min...this isnt even an assembled engine? Jeez....take the sprocket off so you can work on it. Use an impact gun if you have it.

Well it still has all the accessories and belts on it

I wont mention the good ideas above but I will give you a few more Ideas for your toolbox. Use a dremel cutter wheel and make flat tips out of the bolt heads, then use a flat head impact driver. Just another option.

to be honest take a couple pictures of what you have an upload it. I think alot of us are visualizing different things. But you dont want to damage your pulley just incase you slip with the dremel or vis versa. Treat it like a timing belt job, but id imagine apr bolts are a higher quality grade above oem and working with the motor in the car would be a pain in the ass. I snapped on in my spocket well going my timing belt so I took a spring loaded pilot bit set it drilled it with like a 3/16 and droved a robert son #2 tip in there and just wound it out slowly. But I repeat I wouldn't be doing this on the car!! Cause you have to set the drill bit in there and hammering against your front seal is not a good idea

Sounds good. I have to go get some pry bars. I'll upload shortly.

Videos are always better

I can't quite tell if you have the dowel in there.
If you take out the center bolt, can you try twisting the pulley as you loosen the bolt?

Can you flip the camera and show your face? I like to see who im talking to. It gives me a better feel when having online conversations.

But on a serious note, you are better off drilling that thing off, is it going to take you all day? is it going to cost you a dozen of drill bits? YES and YES. then weld a nut on the stud once you get the pulley out.

mnim15 said:

I can't quite tell if you have the dowel in there.
If you take out the center bolt, can you try twisting the pulley as you loosen the bolt?

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The Dowell is there.

Can someone elaborate on getting the sprocket out with the pully on still? I rather get it off and let the machine shop drill it out. It's a brand brand new fluidampr and those arp bolts were brand new and were torque to spec.

Just grind the head off the bolt. You can worry about sprocket later if you're trying to reuse it. Use a carbide burr or a grinding/cutoff bit on dremel tool. Its not that serious or hard.

Also for the future. Tighten the bolt slightly before you loosen if they are stuck. It helps to brake apart the corrosion. Its a trick used with impact guns.

okay sorry man I didnt see you replied back. Okay you can do all of the about how ever the most simple thing to do here because your going to be putting on the head again anyways. I would just undo the cranks center bolt. A it will a whole lot easier putting the head back on. B. less chance of screwing up the bolt more. you could go the route of breaking of the head of the bolt but there wont be much left to grab with a vise grip and like

born2tune said:

But on a serious note, you are better off drilling that thing off, is it going to take you all day? is it going to cost you a dozen of drill bits? YES and YES. then weld a nut on the stud once you get the pulley out.

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yes you might use a dozen drill bit but your going to be drilling it regaurdless. It will be a little shitty wiggling it out but if you have your tensioner tool in there pull it out it will make it easier pulling the sprocket out.

Well the center bolt is what locks the sprocket into place right and the 3 out of the 4 that came out are directly bolted to the sprocket threw the harmonic balancer

Use an impact gun to get the center bolt off or wedge something in the block between the block and counterweights. Think about it. You need leverage. Why do arp bolts even exist for this anyway? It isnt a high torque high strength situation.

pauleyman said:

Use an impact gun to getbthe denter bolt off or wedge something in the block between the block and counterweights. Think about it. You need leverage. Why do arp bolts even exist for this anyway? It isnt a high torque high strength situation.

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I agree with you about the bolts for the harmonic balancer you should have been able to get away with your stock number 8 bolts. more then enough.