http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-used-car-buyers-guide.238710/

Any info on car and pics?

strut tower rust is a common problem to look for

98k miles, fully maintained fluids, only running 10 lbs. of boost currently

When was timing belt changed? does that BOV not recirculate? How does it idle? How does it shift?

What is under that patch left side near the fuse box. Looks like rust, try and peek under it cause it looks like in the pic their is a hole their.

But That is a nice looking talon man. Really like the color scheme on that. Hope she make you happy.

Definitely looks like a big hole on the passenger strut tower, being conveniently covered up. Wonder what else is wrong with it?

Fwiw those spark plugs look kinda like they been spliced into or something

totaleclipse_05 said:

Definitely looks like a big hole on the passenger strut tower, being conveniently covered up. Wonder what else is wrong with it?

Click to expand...

Is there anyway to patch that?

Maes said:

Fwiw those spark plugs look kinda like they been spliced into or something

Click to expand...

I'll take a closer look when I go on Friday.

here is a closer picture of the engine.

There is definitely a way to patch that kind of damage, I knoe its not the same car but my cousin just hit a HUGE pot hole in his old and the strut went through the tower top, he had it repaired and it wasnt that expensive just need an experienced welder.

Also, I see that $5 ebay boost controller that would be a red flag to me, overboosting on stock setup can do serious heat damage I know this through experience with my WRX even tho I had a full exhaust headers and 3.5" from the turbo back the IAT and EGT went through the roof Stock boost egt at 6,000rpm = 1182F 20lbs boost 6,000 rpm =1645F high enough to melt aluminum pistons, heat most likely due to lack of fuel when boost pressure climbs

Well it looks like the car definitely needs some love. Also looks kinda shady on the repair work, makes me think that there probably a lot more wrong with it and the owner is probably not gonna tell you about. Check for more rust, compression test, and start the engine cold and go from there with a long drive and really get a feel for car all around. If all checks out well I still wouldn't pay a lot.

Too late I already bought it.


























J/K. Compression test for sure. That's the first thing I would do. If you decide to buy the car everything else can be fixed with time. Good luck.

I've decided not to buy, definitely something for a mechanic which I'm not quite yet. I'd like to get something that needs minor repairs and looks to not have been beat on. I will keep saving my money and hopefully find one before fall.

Smart choice. I wouldn't recommend that car if it had to be reliable to start and drive everyday. Definitely looks more of a project car, just my opinion

I agree with total eclipse. I don't know what your budget is or what you're exactly looking for but looks like you're willing to travel for a DSM. If so there seems to be better examples to choose from (this is just based on pictures and descriptions on CL ads).

Good luck.

You must be in the Great Lakes area. I've seen that one, too. Glad you passed on it. I wouldn't pay $500 for it.

Does the Car have a tune set up for speed density? it has a vent to atmosphere BOV.. wich will cause driveability issues