Less strain on the thrust bearing which helps prevent crankwalk....as the oil squirters aren't engage till start up. So dry starts on the thrust bearing.

a little welding.

Type1DSMr said:

Less strain on the thrust bearing which helps prevent crankwalk....as the oil squirters aren't engage till start up. So dry starts on the thrust bearing.

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The oil shifters are for piston/rod cooling, not thrust bearing. The thrust bearing(s) are fed from the main center bearing hole on the crankshaft.

The long story is: Disabling the clutch switch allows you to start the car without the clutch depressed because when off, you are relying only on the thin unpressurized film left between the bearing and the crankshaft thrust surface to prevent contact. No pressure means the thrust surface goes right into the bearing, but at least kept slippery by the oil film. On cars with heavier clutches, the thrust surface blows right past that film and makes more contact than you would like.


Lots done I think.
Switched to another recirc valve that doesnt open at 5psi. BLT to 25 then the tester blew off. No leaks in tb shaft seals this time.
Timing cover, alt, PS, pulleys, belts
Plugs 7es until I get new 6
Reassembled dash

Almost ready

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-start-up-bypass.463076/
sorry got my info here. You are probably correct either way helps protect the thrust bearing.

..?what possible flaw could they be even talking about..? I think that part is incorrect.

Its up in the air that it even has a real effect, just like most other crankwalk theories.

Agreed I don't sub to the crank walk nonsense as its not that common like people make it out to be.

crank walk isn't that common, but if you have an original 2g motor with 117,000, miles on it and no current crank walk symptoms, You'll do every easy thing you can that might possibly help including hanging a rabbits foot from the mirror!

Sanded CF foglight housings

Drove to gimli in this-----> it's may like cmon one hell of a drive
last pic was shaky cause the wind that was blowing my car around going 100 km/h on the high way was blowing my phone around

Oh and have to post phone my paint job due to weather

Washed and buffed out the whole car took it for it's first drive since the swap and rebuild.

o0GuitarKid0o said:

Drove to gimli in this-----> it's may like cmon one hell of a drive
last pic was shaky cause the wind that was blowing my car around going 100 km/h on the high way was blowing my phone around

Oh and have to post phone my paint job due to weather

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I know, this is completely retarded weather.. From what I gather, due to typhoons in the west and we haven't seen the effects of the second one yet either.
So close to having the car ready. Winnipeg/Manitoba sucks so much ass, I am so done with this shitberg.

pksystems said:

Sanded CF foglight housings

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Pics?

curt-s said:

I know, this is completely retarded weather.. From what I gather, due to typhoons in the west and we haven't seen the effects of the second one yet either.
So close to having the car ready. Winnipeg/Manitoba sucks so much ass, I am so done with this sh**berg.

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You got that right manitoba is messed up were either hot as hell or cold as f#ck makes me wanna goto bc hah

FINALLY FIRED UP MY 2G!!!!!!! It's been a long hard road that is almost to the end!!!! I work 6 days a week and have 3 kids. Thank you to the all of the dsmtuner family members for the wisdom and kind words to keep me going. Also, thank you to the the classifieds for helping me find those hard to get parts and making me a few bucks to put in my 2g along the way!

Little update this is Monday may long good thing I kept my scraper #onlyInManitoba

Finally got my car running good after three years of building it. After a few days I'm running rich at idle. It's too humid to work on anything today.

drained the gas tank, attempted to figure out what's wrong with my fog light wiring.. turns out i'm not getting any power to the correct pin at the switch. have to provide it from somewhere else.
reset tune, starting from scratch again.

couple things left before i start it up for the first time this year. couple liters of gas, run it through the lines, fire it up.

started it for the first time this year. underestimated my biss position and it wouldnt start, but backed it out a few turns and it coughed to life with a bit of smoke from sitting.. and then purred.

macna said:

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First day driving it after 6 months, and this is what I get. At least I have an excuse to buy new wheels and tires now. So today I got my car put back in my garage.

Hopefully wheels and tires are soon to come.

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Why is your wiper arm stuck in that position? And the GF looks thrilled haha.

Dude I have no idea. The rear wiper is busted. I think the motor is off track. And yeah... playing Candy Crush until help arrived.

Trying out some new spark plugs today! Hopefully DSMlink will get here this week.

reset from scratch. idle, closed loop tune and working on the open loop one still.
beat on the ol' girl a little.. the 14b won't take me any further. soon time to switch up to the b16g, but the 14b will always have a place in my heart and I will never get rid of it -- it's been too much fun.

Used sea foam to find my exhaust leaks and it works great! Just used my vacuum line from the bov and let it suck up a little sea foam. That's all you really need cause it will smoke for a little while. Now I need the motivation to do it.

Cleaned up my HKS Hi-Power exhaust. Man was that thing nasty looking!
Sadly I have no 600-1500 grit sand paper to finish polishing it.

Finally got to start my car after a week of down time. I helicoiled an exhaust manifold stud and replaced all studs with an oem kit with a Mitsubishi 4 layer gasket. As well as a new turbo to manifold 6 layer gasket, o2 gasket, 2 downpipe gaskets a vibrant and 6 layer steel. New oem turbo to manifold bolts and washers. Changed oil with Brad Penn and oem filter. Fresh antifreeze with water wetter. Special thanks to extreme psi and stm for the parts and all the help from the members plus all the assistance from my wife.