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1992 Talon Tsi AWD Re-habilitation

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5/23/15:
I ordered 2 more distribution blocks which came in yesterday, then I cut a little piece of 1/4" plywood to go under the carpet in the back, mounted up the dist.blocks and wired up the battery with the 150amp circuit breaker as well:

rBfFaFlh.jpg


Sanded, painted, and installed the crash bar:

lrgBMfPh.jpg


I put 10 gallons of 93 in the tank, set the base fuel pressure to 38psi, and attempted to start it in naturally aspirated mode, since the i/c piping isn't hooked up. Just wanted to try to idle it, since I'm SD, so I could set base timing and whatnot, but we couldn't get it. I did show my log to someone and was told to try adding about 200 deadtime to the injectors. So I'll do that tomorrow and report back with findings.
 
Man this thing looks frikking clean and the effort - even more great. This is what you call quality work!

Is this your own garage Tony?
 
@just2point0 i wish, its my friend's place around the corner. he does freelance mechanic work every other weekend, hence the lift and all the nice tools. only thing is its between his house and his father's house, so I have to respect whatever their rules are, and I can't be there late at night, out of courtesy.
 
After reading a couple threads on the arc2 and whatnot, I figured out that I had the rising/falling edge dipswitch wrong. So I reprimed the fuel pump, then this happened:

 
Congrats...that's like hearing your kids first words
 
Sweet that's how I felt when I set mine up with speed density for the first time and ah she starts and on my new engine.
 
@just2point0 i wish, its my friend's place around the corner. he does freelance mechanic work every other weekend, hence the lift and all the nice tools. only thing is its between his house and his father's house, so I have to respect whatever their rules are, and I can't be there late at night, out of courtesy.

Its better that than nothing. The car is looking great!
 
5/25/15: not that installing this turbo inlet pipe matters right now, since my i/c piping isn't hooked up, but I bought it used off a guy and wanted to check it out, came the way it was, already wrapped with titanium wrap (so it matches all my other stuff :p )

3rbNVq0h.jpg


and doing some more idle tuning with the SD setup:



So far i started with the ecmwiki numbers for the FIC 1100's, which is 330 deadtime, but i'm already up to 645 deadtime trying to dial in idle. still have some more to go.

@yhype how do you like how I did my FRH w/ the throttle cable ? I used the nissan evap valve as part of the spacer to get the cable bracket out off the manifold.
 
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5/27/15:
Started operation driveshaft. With laptop in tow, containing downloaded jafro rebuild vids, I took some time to assemble all the tools I would need. I've had all the parts sitting in a box since last summer (3 yoke kits, 2 carrier bearings, 2 propeller nuts and 2 washers)

0yz7VD8h.jpg


Started on the first u-joint, pushed it too far, got pissed off, called it a night. I'm working on it alone, so the 2-jaw puller is kinda fumbly in my hands. Might switch the setup around and use the shop press instead, just for more control. To be continued...

Side note, the lobro boot is perfectly in-tact, so no need to touch that, which is good. The 2 end u-joints are totally shot. The yoke u-joint moves nicely on one axis, but almost not at all on the other axis. The rear u-joint is notchy on both axisisisisis. So this will be nice to have it almost new again.
 
I know mines was totally bad all around i got the car after it say for a few years, and had the shaft redone after a year of owning the car. Jafro has some really cool videos.
 
5/28/15:
Because @BoostedBeaver is a huge inspiration to me ;) I wasn't gonna let last night get me down. I pulled out the cutting wheel and went to town. Why not cut it the hell off, i have 3 brand new yokes anyway:

AyBWJuQh.jpg


So screw you mr. yoke and mr. u-joint!

FDAqBkCh.jpg


And the vice is nice, but I'm alone, so I wanted more control. I got that via the shop press and some saw horses:

VYQjzHDh.jpg


Yicky u-joints are out:

UZkvbTrh.jpg


and got the 1 carrier bearing off so far, and cleaned up the surrounding area:

ZajPTlxh.jpg


and lastly, an updated overall engine bay shot, installed the catch-can, just need a little longer hose from the can to the intake so it's not kinked, and some small black zip ties for the connections:

RB1PTohh.jpg
 
5/28/15:
Because @BoostedBeaver is a huge inspiration to me ;) I wasn't gonna let last night get me down. I pulled out the cutting wheel and went to town. Why not cut it the hell off, i have 3 brand new yokes anyway:

View attachment 269105

So screw you mr. yoke and mr. u-joint!

View attachment 269106

And the vice is nice, but I'm alone, so I wanted more control. I got that via the shop press and some saw horses:

View attachment 269107

Yicky u-joints are out:

View attachment 269108

and got the 1 carrier bearing off so far, and cleaned up the surrounding area:

View attachment 269109

and lastly, an updated overall engine bay shot, installed the catch-can, just need a little longer hose from the can to the intake so it's not kinked, and some small black zip ties for the connections:

View attachment 269110
Great engine bay shot , I'm curious to how your coolant overflow is mounted
 
5/30/15:
Driveshaft progress. Here's my boot, looks fine, so I'm just gonna give it a gentle cleaning:

nHjf6ZCh.jpg


Lobro all cleaned up and put back together after inspection:

IDro66qh.jpg


As instructed, I cupped the balls:

jhxQ7gdh.jpg


And so far, lobro greased and re-installed, both new carrier bearings are on, and 1 u-joint so far... 2 more to go:

IYdp5Lih.jpg


5/30/15 part II:
All u-joints done:

L6Q3q0Jh.jpg


Taped off the yoke, lobro boot, and both carrier bearings, sanded, and etch-primered:

KivzwPHh.jpg
 
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5/31/15:
Before I went ahead and put the driveshaft in, I wanted to check the pivot ball's position. Here's how it looks with the existing ball, which jack's left in and just painted over, new CC fork, cc stage 3 clutch, cc lightweight steel flywheel:

NfZOvGkh.jpg


It's my own fault, didn't think to ask if they installed a new one until after I mounted the damn trans. Welp, that looks a little too far over to the passenger side. So took the trans off, installed the CC ball with nylon bushing, which came with the CC clutch fork, and here's how it looks after:

IQGstAgh.jpg


Not much of an improvement. Guess that's just how it's gonna be.

So let's install that driveshaft then! Started at the back and worked my way forward:

90fHcOSh.jpg


Used rust-oleum industrial gloss black spray paint on it, even 6 hours later, its still a little tacky.

Here's my custom-made fastener for the one driveshaft stud I sheared off last year, used loctite on this one:

itOKY8Xh.jpg


and finally my pretty 2-tone transfer case:

p4XENx1h.jpg


Torqued to spec with new bolts from JNZ, filled with lucas 85w140, and re-installed the downpipe.

But wait, there's more! Let's go full bore and install my exhaust too? Sure, why not.

Ordered a megan 3" test pipe, so bolted that up to the Thermal that came on the car, then worked from rear to front again:

4GdPd0Fh.jpg


Just need 1 more hanger for the rear of the muffler, not sure where that got off to:

t2lf9Bqh.jpg
 
How old are you man that you know how to do all this by yourself?? I envy your knowledge. This looks beautiful especially the engine area, even the under of your car looks cleaner than my engine area :idontknow:
 
5/23/15:
I ordered 2 more distribution blocks which came in yesterday, then I cut a little piece of 1/4" plywood to go under the carpet in the back, mounted up the dist.blocks and wired up the battery with the 150amp circuit breaker as well:

View attachment 268447

Sanded, painted, and installed the crash bar:

View attachment 268448

I put 10 gallons of 93 in the tank, set the base fuel pressure to 38psi, and attempted to start it in naturally aspirated mode, since the i/c piping isn't hooked up. Just wanted to try to idle it, since I'm SD, so I could set base timing and whatnot, but we couldn't get it. I did show my log to someone and was told to try adding about 200 deadtime to the injectors. So I'll do that tomorrow and report back with findings.

Can I suggest the knuconceptz battery terminals great prices and prices are not bad either https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JK9FTZI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Qc8Avb19SP2JH

let me know what you think
 
@acrazyjohnny I'm a fan of stinger, have been for about 20 years, so all my stuff is stinger. However, the fuses in the stinger fused block in the engine bay are from knuconceptz.
 
6/2/15:
Because we all hate the key-in buzzer that comes on your 1g, I decided to go super boss style and picked up a late model bmw buzzer off ebay. I'll have to put some power to the leads and see which ones do what sounds, and also figure out where it's gonna get mounted:
OKCstaNh.jpg


I was also playing around with my rear suspension, it was sitting way off camber, so I was trying to adjust the rear control arms as best as i could by eye so that I could at least get to the shop to get an alignment without totally trashing my new rubber:

qpniVDnh.jpg


And since I'm just idle tuning right now, and my I/C piping isn't hooked up, I thought this would make me a little more comfortable. Found this k&n filter in my garage, decided to drill a hole in the top so I could insert the AIT, then mount the filter right on the Wilson throttle body:

67nyUs0h.jpg


Bro, do you even 2 air filters ?

Og9ExLyh.jpg


Also, was gonna save this to be the very last thing I did before it was road worthy, but she's just about there, so here's my new DSM plate, mounted on top of the old DSM sticker, laser etched by a guy on facebook:

2yUuKoAh.jpg
 
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