OP, can you provide a bit more info on what happens when "it goes all retarded" after 4k? What's it sound like? Is it always exactly 4k? How does the car behave? Is is shaking, stuttering, misfiring? Will it continue to rev to 7k? Do you hear any detonation?

The car was apart due to clutch and trans problem. When i first got this car together there were no problems with it going all retarded just had no power felt as if clutch was slipping. In the process of fixing it i found that it is not a clutch issue it was a power issue. Since then ive tried setting timing, tried diff maf, rewired plug to maf, checked for boost leaks, replaced all vac lines, drained old nasty gas, replaced fuel filter,changed injectors. When i first put this motor in it would not fire with original ecu. Had no spark. Put spare ecu that came with car in and it fired right up. The old ecu that had no spark turned fuel pump on and off like a normal car when you turn the key on. The new ecu that runs the motor has the pump on constantly until you turn key off. There is a small box mounted behind the ecu that clicks even when key is off. It kills the batt er y over night. Dont understand that at all. Never did that with old ecu. What if the exhaust leak was the whole bottom of the gasket could that cause my issue?

Probably a dumb question, but sometimes these things get overlooked. Is your maf plugged in? That will cause similar issues.

Yes maf is pluged in. Would a short vid of what it sounds like and does help? And can i post it on here?

Yes that would be helpful for us to help you. If you can post a video please do.

Cant seem to get it to load on here. Posted vid to youtube. Name.. Talon running issues.. posted by john redfield.. please check it out

hope this works

Its almost as if its hitting a low set rev limiter. I bet your timing is off a tooth. How old is the belt? A t-belt job may be in your near future.

I honestly have no clue how old the belt is. Prolly original belt.. possible stretch? It didnt do this when i first put the motor in. Seems to be getting worse as far as rev goes.. seriously debating putting old motor back in sence the noise i heard and reason i took old motor out was due to faulty install of flywheel bolts. My original thought for the new motor was to strip it and use only the block to build a high hp motor. In your opinion is putting old motor back in something worth trying? This would put the original ecu back in the car wich is fine it ran great until the noise started.. smh i dont know what to do..

Your belt is probably fine. Before you go swapping motors, try a known good maf.

I dont have 300 to spend to try a new maf. I dont know anyone near me with one of these that i could barrow one that i know works. Dont know what to do.

Do the timing marks on the cam gears line up?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/timing-belt-off-by-a-tooth.427083/

Is there an easy way to tell if the maf is working correctly besides trying a diff one? I will try puting the spare maf that came with spare motor on again n see if there any diff. Ill post results shortly

Timing marks line up perfect by the looks of it to me

Probably a super silly question - any chance this ECU is reflashed, and is currently in valet mode?

Have you switched out new plug wires yet? I had similar symptoms with a 1g and everything magically "fixed" with new wires.

No clue if it was reflashed. I havent done plug wires yet. I have another set from other motor ill try in a bit. Got parts coming round 330. New wire clips for maf plug and exhaust manifold gasket. Not gonna waist gasket yet tho. If i have to go with old motor gonna need it.. ill try wires but dont see it changing. The thing i dont understand about the computer is why my old one wont even fire this motor because of no spark when it ran the old motor perfect. Also dont understand why i can yurn key on without starting it and the fuel pump runs constantly and it makes the relay by the ecu click and kills battery even if keys arent in it. I would think a 91 ecu should run any 91 maybe im dumb but this all makes no sence to me

Someone should really make a video doing the entire timing belt job
. I'd make it but I still have doubts of an non expert doing it then a professional.

Update. Plug wires.. no diffrence.. fuel pressure holds where ever i set the regulator.. found it will rev past 4k however you have to be very slow on throttle and let it build itself up.. dash boost gage reads no possitive pressure at all..

Have you made sure there isn't a shop towel or something in the intercooler piping? Just throwing that out there because it happens. Maybe a wastegate stuck open? Trying to think outside of the box.

Dont believe there is anything in inner cooler. I tried activating the waist gate with my air compressor.. it seemed to be moving fine altho cant really tell without taking it apart. Im goin to try n look at bottom side of manifold and see if maybe the gasket is blown out. Its really the only thing i didnt take off the motor when i swaped it. I swaped the turbo off old motor but didnt have a gasket to change manifold. The motor does tik from exhaust after i run it read on post above thats a sign of them leaking

You can unplug the maf with the car running if it gets smoother then it's a bad maf ,

How's your master cylinder ?

GSXDNA said:

Probably a super silly question - any chance this ECU is reflashed, and is currently in valet mode?

Click to expand...

he has non eprom ecus. I suspected a previous tune or possibly a leaking cap and asked for pics in his other thread. I didn't see anything that pops out.

This is turbo that was on the motor in the car before the swap. I changed it out for the one that was on original motor. Found these cracks when started looking it over for a diffrence between the 2. So then i started inspecting the manifold that is on the car now.. this is what i found

Sorry the first pic is blurry ill take another. The line in the center is a huge crack