The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

When using the fuse and circuit breaker for the line running from the kill switch to the alternator, how close to the circuit breaker do you want the fuse? And how close to the battery do you want the circuit breaker?
 
Back to this thread, I'm not sure what I should be doing with the mpi, abs, ign fuse box in the ways of where to mount it/ power in-out and I see lofty has 2 wires going out of this box to the fuse box in his diagram, why? Any help where to mount It I appreciate.

Did this ever get answered?? I'm also interested in the answer.
 
Yea. I actually mounted it to the fuse box and ran power in from the battery and out to the fuse box. Instead of using cable from the small fuse box to the big one, I just modified the terminal connector to bolt up to the power in on the main fuse box.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


When using the fuse and circuit breaker for the line running from the kill switch to the alternator, how close to the circuit breaker do you want the fuse? And how close to the battery do you want the circuit breaker?

I put both my circuit breakers right by the battery and my fuse block under where the radio use to be.
 
Hmmm interesting. Can you pull the cover off the fuse box so I can see how you mounted it.
 
i have been reading through this thread and wondering if NHRA rules allow you to use something like this?
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-200-Battery-Relay-Isolator/dp/B001HBYXVS]Amazon.com: Stinger 200 Amp Battery Relay Isolator: Car Electronics[/ame]

this way you could wire the kill switch to a relay that would kill the car that way you only have to run one power wire back to the battery and just use the above relay to disconnect power to the car?

would this work? would it be NHRA legal?
 
Heres a diagram with a parts list i worked up for myself.

the advantage i see is by having the distribution block closer to the alternator you will have better voltage especially for anyone like me who uses a self exciting regulator in their alternator, also theres only one lead of power going to the trunk and then a 8 gauge wire gong back up to trip the relay

but does anyone know if this is NHRA legal?
 

Attachments

  • BATTERY RELOCATE DIA Model (1).pdf
    22.5 KB · Views: 436
Sorry it took so long to finally post this but I did have a couple people ask me already about how to mount the mpi fuse box. This is what my solution is. Safe and practical.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Just a note on Kurt's way of bolting it to the fuse panel, this will only work easily with abs cars, as the abs fuse box has two threaded holes as seen in the pics above, the non abs box has a solid metal piece with no holes for mounting your battery or starter wire.
 
Anyways i would like to relocate my fuse box to my glove box. And i would like to know how hard it is? And do you take all the wiring out in the engine bay? I am a bit confused i have looked at fuse box relocation post. Also i heard you have to pull the dash out is this true? Any help on this will be great i have my engine out right now so it might help. Thanks. :thumb:
 
I am a bit confused i have looked at fuse box relocation post.
Then post your question(s) regarding fuse box relocation in that thread instead of creating a new one.

:dsm:
 
Is the relocation hard to do? I heard you have to pull the dash out. Is this true? Also all the wiring comes out in the engine bay right? And how long does it take? And is this relocation worth the time?
 
Hey Guys! Finally getting around to wanting to do this. I pretty much used turbosax2's and Lofty's DIY as a template, but also have added another non-fused block since I have a fuel pump re-wire and amp that already have their own dedicated fuses.

Version A pretty much mimics what turbosax has done, but I am using 4g instead of 2g all the way through -
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I have seen a few posts from others saying that since the stock fuse box has 100a fuse, they keep the power wire to the alternator ran this way. Since I will be using a dedicated power wire for my alternator for the kill switch, could I run the power wire for the starter to the fuse box? This is Version B -
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Just wanted to make sure this will work since I am looking to be track legal, and also safe. I will eventually upgrade to the Saturn alternator that is why I chose the 200a circuit breaker and inline fuse to give me that head room.

My References:
turbosax2 - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html
Lofty - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html
 
I am going to start on my fuse box relocation. And I need to know were is the best place to start. I am having trouble making a diagram i want so i hope to get help on that. Thanks.:thumb:

I copied this off off Jefro's page and i want to do something like his. I dont have a amp or ever wall put one again in have hearing loss. I need help understanding the diagram of Jefro's? Any help is great. Thanks. :thumb:
 

Attachments

  • Jafros2gbatteryshit v2.jpg
    Jafros2gbatteryshit v2.jpg
    70.8 KB · Views: 3,294
You could always just stash the fusebox under the intake. It requires you to move the overflow tank, but does a great job of hiding it without the work of rewiring.
 
Can the stock white wires going from the alternator to the fuse box be disconnected, the ends cut off and sealed then taped to the factory harness? Just I case in the future you wanted to go back to stock.
 
Horrible drawing but what do you think about this? Two 1/0 wires coming right off the battery, separate breakers, then one going to the alternator and one to the fuses/starter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • upload_2015-5-3_21-3-46.jpeg
    upload_2015-5-3_21-3-46.jpeg
    5.4 KB · Views: 297
Horrible drawing but what do you think about this? Two 1/0 wires coming right off the battery, separate breakers, then one going to the alternator and one to the fuses/starter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You're not going to do a kill switch? I wouldn't run 1/0 to the fuse box that's huge. I ran 2- 4 gauge wires. Just add a fused distribution block from 1/0 to 1/0 and 4 gauge. From what I've read fuses are still good to have with breakers. I used gofers setup with his shopping list. I went 2 gauge though.
 
I ended up following gofer's diagram almost exactly. I have 0 gauge running from straight off the alternator back to the battery. Then another 0 gauge splitting off for the starter and fuse box. I've removed the factory battery terminals and wires and am wondering which terminals in the fuse box I connect for the 12v input power.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Which one? Also the ac condenser fan has a wire that splits off from the alternator wires in the fuse box. Will I need to wire this in again? Can't find a pinout anywhere so tell me where the 12v battery power input for the fuse box it.
 
I appreciate all the recognition with the diagram but, just to let you guys know, that's not my battery setup. I did spend sometime talking with Eric (turbosax2) and figuring out his setup (which is actually the diagram I drew) and coming up with a parts list. I never went through with the relocation on my own DSM though because the cost.

I ended up Tech Article : Mouting the Battery on the Subframe.

That diagram that I drew was based off of Eric's setup so he's the one that should take the credit for it, I just drew it. :)
 
I've had mine down on the subframe, but I'm not happy how it's mounted. Moving it to the trunk will make everything easier, and I'll have a spot for my catch can
 
Kyle_T, did you figure out which spot on the fuse box is the 12v? IIRC, the one is 100A fused for the alternator.

Since I have removed A/C and ABS wondering if I could use those 10A fuses for gauges and my fuel pump re-wire?
 
Mine are still connected at the same 2 spots in the pictures. You can connect them like that or on the other side of the 100a fuse, which I didn't have enough room for both terminals.

Pretty sure I need to invest in a higher CCA battery. My 4 year old 540cca battery was completely dead. I charged it for 2 days, it will start the car fine at first but after driving it all day it will barely start the car.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top