The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G 20G won't fit - stock 7 bolt

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

smills1840

10+ Year Contributor
365
22
Nov 8, 2011
Blacksburg, Virginia
I bought a used 20g off the forum. I wen't to install it and I can't get it to fit. I think I've dented the water pipe enough, but it's hitting the coolant line banjo bolt that goes into the block right below the water pipe. I've ground the bolt head down to the point that I don't feel comfortable with it anymore. I don't think I'll be able to shave enough off the compressor cover to get it to fit. There is about a 1/8" gap between the turbo and the manifold when it starts to hit the block.

The compressor cover is NOT a "standard" 20g compressor cover. Attached are some pictures of the turbo and the problem area.

1. Does the FP Race manifold move the turbo forwards at all? I could go that route if it moved the turbo away from the block at all.

2. What kind of compressor cover do I have?

3. Is there any way to tell if I have a TD05 or TD06 without taking the turbo apart? What about the turbine housing? I was told it was a TD05 and I don't have a reason to doubt that, I'm just wondering if the combination of turbo parts (turbine housing, compressor cover, etc.) are creating my problem.




You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Thanks
 
OK.. so how can we get this turbo to fit and have the lines run as he wants..I mean I can tell him to machine the turbo and the mani at an angle to kick it out but if he had the machines to do so he would not have asked for our help.
 
Can he run a 1G/6bolt water pipe which puts the coolant lines in a different place?
 
I'm going to try to put my 14b exhaust housing on the 20g and see if that makes a difference.
 
I am the previous owner of this turbo and had my brother (jamarh85) post it as I dont have much time due to a busy work schedule. This turbo was on a stock 7bolt engine with a stock exhaust mani. I did put a very mild dent in the water pipe just for clearance as you can see from the pics that were posted (pics from my car).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
tdo6 20g. Delete The coolant lines. Can get a non turbo water pipe as well to help. You will need to dent the water pipe a little. I have that same turbo. Posted pic of it.
 

Attachments

  • 10616111_10152271851177711_83484439612303474_nturbo.jpg
    10616111_10152271851177711_83484439612303474_nturbo.jpg
    74.9 KB · Views: 114
Last edited:
I am the previous owner of this turbo and had my brother (jamarh85) post it as I dont have much time due to a busy work schedule. This turbo was on a stock 7bolt engine with a stock exhaust mani. I did put a very mild dent in the water pipe just for clearance as you can see from the pics that were posted (pics from my car).

Thanks for chiming in. I'm still just confused what's different between our cars. Any ideas?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ive been looking at the pics over and over and can't figure out what could be different with our cars. Im working from home today so I'll go outside and take another look at my car and at my other brother's car as well, who also has a 20g turbo. I'll snap some pics of his setup and post here when I get a chance.
 
No need for everyone to get fired up about this. This car is my daily and it's been down for over a week. As long as I get this thing on and working I don't care what parts are on it right now.
 
I ran a TD05H housing 20G turbo on my 1G without any clearance issues so it must be his housing.
 
What if you blocked off that line and ran a different water tube like off a 6 bolt or a N/A? Then you could feed the turbo water line just from a different spot and make it fit against the block there.

Also what kind of 20G is this? Evo? It's hard to see from the pics.
 
I suggested that but don't know if they are reading it. The 1G water pipe has the water outlet in a different place and doesn't use that banjo bolt in the block so it could be blocked and fed water from another place. +2 :thumb:
 
Compressor housing is bigger on yours. The 1G water pipe has a fitting in it for a water tube instead of going into the block so if that is your only issue just use a early model water pipe for a turbo engine.
 
I had a similar situation in my car. 2G, 6Bolt, 20G, OEM manifold. In my case (6bolt) the compressor housing was hitting the water pipe fitting for the turbo.

Since I eliminated long ago my water lines, in the water pipe is a bolt (as opposed to the 7Bolt block-banjo thing). My turbo was touching it. I dented the pipe and ground the bolt and was still hitting. The solution was to rotate both the compressor and turbine housing to get everything to alingn.

To rotate the ex housing loosen the clamp holding it and for the comp housing there is a big c-clip that must be removed.

Pic (before):
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I installed my 6cm exhaust housing from my 14b onto the 20g. That allowed me to bolt the turbo up properly and the compressor outlet is in basically the correct place. It still hits that same banjo bolt, just less.

Here is a picture of how it sits now. I think I'm going to run it like this on WG pressure until I find a better solution.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
It's a banjo bolt going into the block. I believe it's the factory turbo coolant feed.
I had the exact problem. What I did was purchase a header flange. It is 14mm thick so it makes a great spacer for pushing the manifold away from the head. You will need longer studs and also the two 10mm bolts at the ends. Also the bracket from the block to the downpipe won't fit anymore. I would recommend lengthening it to fit though. Without that bracket you'll be putting extra stress on the new longer studs that come out of the cylinder head.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
not the best pic but you can see the spacer for the manifold. If I had to do it all again,I would have just changed the housing.
 
Last edited:
I had the similar problem with my FP Green, I just cut the little bracket for the water pipe and hit it with a hammer slightly, took a while to make it fit, I also grinded the housing a little bit to help.
 
I just flattened the water tube a bit to accommodate my HX40.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top