2G 20G won't fit - stock 7 bolt

smills1840 · Mar 7, 2015

I bought a used 20g off the forum. I wen't to install it and I can't get it to fit. I think I've dented the water pipe enough, but it's hitting the coolant line banjo bolt that goes into the block right below the water pipe. I've ground the bolt head down to the point that I don't feel comfortable with it anymore. I don't think I'll be able to shave enough off the compressor cover to get it to fit. There is about a 1/8" gap between the turbo and the manifold when it starts to hit the block.

The compressor cover is NOT a "standard" 20g compressor cover. Attached are some pictures of the turbo and the problem area.

1. Does the FP Race manifold move the turbo forwards at all? I could go that route if it moved the turbo away from the block at all.

2. What kind of compressor cover do I have?

3. Is there any way to tell if I have a TD05 or TD06 without taking the turbo apart? What about the turbine housing? I was told it was a TD05 and I don't have a reason to doubt that, I'm just wondering if the combination of turbo parts (turbine housing, compressor cover, etc.) are creating my problem.

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Thanks

Priority DSM · Mar 7, 2015

Maybe a phenolic style heat barrier spacer meant for exhaust side would help push it out far enough to fit.

Good luck.

Priority DSM · Mar 7, 2015

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/exhaust-manifold-spacer.476583/

Just search exhaust manifold spacer dsm in Google and the results are there. Seems a bunch of people do it for turbo clearance or wanting to not bang on the water pipe or grind down important things.

c2ypt1c · Mar 7, 2015

Or you can remove the water lines all together and plug it with an oil drain plug. That's what I would do...

smills1840 · Mar 7, 2015

Do I not need water lines for the 20g? I assume I would just need to let it cool after hard driving? I don't mind that, I just don't want to have to let it cool for just daily driving.

c2ypt1c · Mar 7, 2015

smills1840 said:
Do I not need water lines for the 20g?

It's really a judgement call. Some guys will jump in here and say "the turbo came with water lines from the factory for a reason." Others, like myself, have ran turbos without water lines for many thousands of miles without issue. In my case however, I've always fed the turbo from the filter housing and ran larger oil drains (10an or larger), so this could be a contributing factor.

If anything, I believe it would affect the longevity of the turbo - meaning, it would need a rebuild after 150,000 as opposed to 200,000 miles. Not a big deal if you ask me, considering it's a journal bearing turbo...

smills1840 · Mar 7, 2015

Could I run the turbo with no coolant lines for a week or two with no ill effects? Just until I can figure out a permanent solution.

Bob_Gobblin · Mar 7, 2015

Ditch the water lines and feed it clean oil like the others have said.. Run a turbo timer if you want to be really safe.

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

Does anyone have any input on whether or not the FP Race mani changes the position of the turbo at all?

xxNocturnalxx · Mar 8, 2015

You might be able to get away with clocking the comp housing clock wise to get the smaller part of housing to clear that bolt or pipe.

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

That's what I'm thinking, but the way the wastegate bracket was fabbed and attached the the compressor housing makes that difficult. Isn't there a locating pin on the chra that won't allow me to do that though?

Also, the person I bought this turbo from has kept in touch trying to help me figure this out. The turbo was pulled directly off a 2g manifold with the same water pipe and banjo bolt that's on my car. It fit with no issue. So what could be different between his 7 bolt block, 2g head and 2g manifold vs. my 7 bolt block, 2g head, 2g manifold?

bmxfelon420 · Mar 8, 2015

Pretty sure a 1g water pipe doesnt have this problem. That's what I did.

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

The water pipe isn't the issue. It's the banjo bolt going into the block.

I just tried to rotate the compressor housing and by the time I rotated it enough to bolt up to the manifold properly it was pointed too far away from the front to attach an intercooler pipe too. I'm still using the stock sidemount (I know it is absolutely not adequate enough for a 20g, don't worry).

yhype · Mar 8, 2015

Maybe one of you doesn't have a factory 2g exhaust manifold? maybe a cheap aftermarket replacement or an evo 3 manifold?

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

These are pictures of the car it came off of previously. I don't have any pictures of my car, but I can assure you I have a stock 2g exhaust mani and a 2g head.

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Bob_Gobblin · Mar 8, 2015

I wonder if the mani if different some how?

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

That's what I thought, but that mani looks just like a 2g as far as I can tell.

Bob_Gobblin · Mar 8, 2015

Crazy.. I guess its a matter of how willing are you to ditch the water lines. I my self would be willing to do it.. Butt ts just me.. just be sure to have a cool and clean oil source. Other wise use an after market mani.

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

I'd like to feed it from the OFH but I can't find a restrictor for the line.

Bob_Gobblin · Mar 8, 2015

Have you tried etxtearmPSI ?

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

I found a kit from RTM for $63.

Bob_Gobblin · Mar 8, 2015

Dang.. On my Hy-35 i just welded it shut and drilled it out too 3/32 dia. I wasn't going to spend what they wanted for a oil feed.

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the feed. I don't see a way to make the 1g style hardline feed work for now (which is what I already have) until I get a new feed. But that's the least of my worries right now. I still need to figure out why this thing wont fit.

Bob_Gobblin · Mar 8, 2015

Just a thought.. I don't know the 20g as well as some. But doesn't the compressor housing index separately from the CHRA.. I have a OBX T3 mani and have never had to do or deal with what you are. So I'm shooting from the hip here.

Also I was looking at the pic where it hits that hex head. I cant tell if that's a bolt or a plug?

smills1840 · Mar 8, 2015

It's a banjo bolt going into the block. I believe it's the factory turbo coolant feed.

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