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(non-Ebay) Electric Turbocharger (Supercharger?)

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Put the assembly so that gears are vertical and stick some weights to the larger gear using double sided tape. Stop adding weights once you get to the point where gear turns from the weight. Now knowing how much weight is there and knowing how far away from center it is you will be able to calculate how much torque it takes to turn this gear assembly. Probably will be in gram-per-centimeter or ounce-per-inch range, like mentioned above.
 
Hey guys! Thought I'd follow up. I got the bearings in the mail and currently waiting for the Drive spur gear as the one they sent isn't fitting. I promised some pictures so I thought I'd give you pics of one of the parts I'm printing out. It is ABS plastic and it is the Oil pan of my latest design. The next picture are the tiny bearings that are supposed to do the heavy lifting. One of them wont get used obviously. I might be replacing the other one with thicker angular contact bearings good from 300k RPM.
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And yes.. I'm aware it looks like a dog bone LOL. Those ears are to prevent the corners from curling :)
 
Hey guys! Thought I'd follow up. I got the bearings in the mail and currently waiting for the Drive spur gear as the one they sent isn't fitting. I promised some pictures so I thought I'd give you pics of one of the parts I'm printing out. It is ABS plastic and it is the Oil pan of my latest design. The next picture are the tiny bearings that are supposed to do the heavy lifting. One of them wont get used obviously. I might be replacing the other one with thicker angular contact bearings good from 300k RPM.
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And yes.. I'm aware it looks like a dog bone LOL. Those ears are to prevent the corners from curling :)
LOL its awesome to see progress being made on this, kind of exciting actually!!
 
After reading that long FRS thread on their electric version, plus dyno graphs, revisions and back orders I'm excited to see what you come up with. I'd like to try something like this one on my NA 3.7 Mustang , the engine is great in that thing but lacks torque (I feel the FRS version would be to small). Even tuned the torque lag behinds the hp on the stang and I don't really want to spend $5k-6k on a turbo kit or procharger kit. This might be a cheaper alternative for a mild bump between 350-400 range for my daily driver.
 
Those ears are to prevent the corners from curling :)

Not sure if you have a heated platform on this printer, but if you do then hair spray will work great for keeping the model glued to the it. Model releases as everything cools after printing is finished to the point where it's just sitting there not attached at all. Then again it might not work on metal surface like it does on glass.
 
Not sure if you have a heated platform on this printer, but if you do then hair spray will work great for keeping the model glued to the it. Model releases as everything cools after printing is finished to the point where it's just sitting there not attached at all. Then again it might not work on metal surface like it does on glass.
Knows his stuff^^ heat glass to 100 degrees and spray hairspray, let it tack slightly
 
@teknicalissue Hey, so I've been talking with the man who owns the patent for that and since you plan on making a kit to sell, you need his permission. Don't worry he is extremely reasonable with a plethora of knowledge (and 3D printers) but he will most likely help you since you are not a big company like VW AG who he is currently writing some letters for for what audi is doing. Anyways, his name is Gary Cook and he asked me to give you his phone number: -----------. My name is Tyler by the way. Like I said he is very reasonable with a lot of resources so it would be of your best interest to give him a ring. Can't wait to see this thing finished :)
 
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Not sure if you have a heated platform on this printer, but if you do then hair spray will work great for keeping the model glued to the it. Model releases as everything cools after printing is finished to the point where it's just sitting there not attached at all. Then again it might not work on metal surface like it does on glass.

Yep I have a heated platform! Sadly though, the part is rather long which causes it to raise but I offset that with a 10 line brim. If that doesn't help, I typically use Kapton tape or Even ABS glue!

Knows his stuff^^ heat glass to 100 degrees and spray hairspray, let it tack slightly
indeed!

@teknicalissue Hey, so I've been talking with the man who owns the patent for that and since you plan on making a kit to sell, you need his permission. Don't worry he is extremely reasonable with a plethora of knowledge (and 3D printers) but he will most likely help you since you are not a big company like VW AG who he is currently writing some letters for for what audi is doing. Anyways, his name is Gary Cook and he asked me to give you his phone number: ------------. My name is Tyler by the way. Like I said he is very reasonable with a lot of resources so it would be of your best interest to give him a ring. Can't wait to see this thing finished :)

Nice to meet you Tyler! Go ahead and PM your phone number too so we can all three discuss and such. I'm traveling Monday to Wednesday to Florida but I'll try my best to give him a call Monday after noon. Also, Go ahead and block out his number from the thread LOL There are spam bots that go around gathering phone numbers for telemarketers :p.

If you want, here is my facebook so we can discuss further (https://www.facebook.com/carlos.alcazar.7921)

Lastly!

I have good and bad news!

I'm still waiting for the gear but was able to connect the Arduino board to the ESC. Needless to say, I can start the motor and such but am still waiting for the Gear to come through. Aside from this, My 3D printer broke in mid print! the nozzle clogged and made a mess of things. No worry though as I have another (better) 3D printer on the way! The printer I was using was a chinaBay reprap and had a good run :p now I'm ordering and XYZ da vinci printer and start printing the parts!

Once I get the parts printed, All I would need is minor machining on a 14b turbo I just purchased as well as the gears and we should be set for a brand spanking new prototype!

Here is the pic of the ultra simple set-up on a leopard 5050kv motor!

EDIT: Yes They are not soldered... This is for a quick test. This is not how it will be in the prototype LOLol

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@teknicalissue It is not allowing me to PM you for some reason, that is why I posted here. Those da vinci printers are awesome too you'll love it.
GO ahead and try again!


Definitely a good read! I'm slightly intrigued and question why no one has decided to just build a gearbox (Like I'm doing) that will make motors that are more than capable of making 2KW transfer that energy. It seems the focus is just to create a single motor that can spin 100k rpm.. I understand gearing is a bit dated but goodness gracious it is still incredibly useful and functional!

man nice progress on here, I'd love to see this setup in action.

Here is a video of the RC motors I'm playing around with. Theya re seriously no joke (As tiny as they may appear):

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Definitely a good read! I'm slightly intrigued and question why no one has decided to just build a gearbox (Like I'm doing) that will make motors that are more than capable of making 2KW transfer that energy. It seems the focus is just to create a single motor that can spin 100k rpm.. I understand gearing is a bit dated but goodness gracious it is still incredibly useful and functional!
Because gearboxes are less efficient and they are mostly electric ASSIST turbos whereas what you have is an electrically driven centrifugal supercharger.
 
still not working, try PMing me

PM sent! I'm on a plane now to a connecting flight in Washington. I'll try to give Gary a call then.

Because gearboxes are less efficient and they are mostly electric ASSIST turbos whereas what you have is an electrically driven centrifugal supercharger.

Hahaha oh yea :p makes sense doesn't it!?

By next week, I'm hoping all three sections printed and the motor and bearings installed so stay tuned!
 
Haven't had a chance to make the call but here is the latest model I'm printing:

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the motor goes in to the central hole obviously on the right and the turbo shaft goes on the left. Behind the enclosure there will be some gear oil that will cover 1/4th of the drive gear for proper lubrication.
 

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I'm loving the ingenuity and I applaud your efforts. What do think about trying to get a old pro charger or vortech and using the gear drive from it or even try and use it as is and drive it with the electric motor. They already have some of the hard stuff made. Just an idea, oh and about reducing friction I suggest having the gears undergo wpc treatment. It's been shown to actually work.
 
I'm loving the ingenuity and I applaud your efforts. What do think about trying to get a old pro charger or vortech and using the gear drive from it or even try and use it as is and drive it with the electric motor. They already have some of the hard stuff made. Just an idea, oh and about reducing friction I suggest having the gears undergo wpc treatment. It's been shown to actually work.
There is that option or ditch you're current motor and go direct drive.
 
I like the idea of being able to control turbo speed independent of engine speed and progressively because I've heard that the fast spool hard hit of hx-35's being hard on 5 speed tranny's. So if you get that 14b near its sweet spot at a low rpm, it might present some drive train issues but it would be like having a v-6 ( more torque at low rpm). Can't wait to see a test run!
 
I'm loving the ingenuity and I applaud your efforts. What do think about trying to get a old pro charger or vortech and using the gear drive from it or even try and use it as is and drive it with the electric motor. They already have some of the hard stuff made. Just an idea, oh and about reducing friction I suggest having the gears undergo wpc treatment. It's been shown to actually work.

I could be wrong but last I remember those are pulley driven turbo's and the gearing system require a ton of torque usually seen made in the crankshaft. My little motor might not have enough torque to spin those massive gears. I will look in to WPC treatment though! Thank you!

There is that option or ditch you're current motor and go direct drive.

I'm sure you know this but finding a direct drive motor with enough power to go 150k RPM and provide an adequate amount of torque to compress air in large quantities is incredibly expensive. I called a couple of motor companies and got either quotes in the 10k range for a custom motor or got laughed at.

I like the idea of being able to control turbo speed independent of engine speed and progressively because I've heard that the fast spool hard hit of hx-35's being hard on 5 speed tranny's. So if you get that 14b near its sweet spot at a low rpm, it might present some drive train issues but it would be like having a v-6 ( more torque at low rpm). Can't wait to see a test run!

Very true! I'm actually talking to Chumpaumpalumpa behind the scenes to figure out how to make a reliable prototype. In my first design, While I did hit boost quickly; there was a lot of metal on metal rubbing and exposed gears. I'm actually trying to refine this a bit and make something that will truly be reliable.
 
Nice, and I really do think it's awesome your taking on this project! I'll try to contribute best I can, and I hope to even build one myself sometime. And def check out the wpc treatment, it uses like nut shell media to kinda shot peen the surface. I think I remember reading an article in a mustang or what not mag they had the rear diff ring and pinion treated and possibly the gears in trans and gained like 10+ rwhp. Even like 5 psi it would be like a roots or twin screw supercharger, but won't heat the air as much. Oh and there was a pic in that other thread of a magnelli electrically assisted turbo, the cool thing is it can be used to generate electricity! I know it can't be bought yet (it's f-1 tech) but in ten years LOL. I think a regen/ charging system for the turbo batteries will be needed. I feel like this might end up a street car thing as most drag cars can use various techniques (anti lag, load engine in auto trans, etc) to spool up big turbos it might not appeal to them. Still soon this tech will be used in the future, hell look how many cars are turbo charged for efficiency reasons.
 
Nice, and I really do think it's awesome your taking on this project! I'll try to contribute best I can, and I hope to even build one myself sometime. And def check out the wpc treatment, it uses like nut shell media to kinda shot peen the surface. I think I remember reading an article in a mustang or what not mag they had the rear diff ring and pinion treated and possibly the gears in trans and gained like 10+ rwhp. Even like 5 psi it would be like a roots or twin screw supercharger, but won't heat the air as much. Oh and there was a pic in that other thread of a magnelli electrically assisted turbo, the cool thing is it can be used to generate electricity! I know it can't be bought yet (it's f-1 tech) but in ten years LOL. I think a regen/ charging system for the turbo batteries will be needed. I feel like this might end up a street car thing as most drag cars can use various techniques (anti lag, load engine in auto trans, etc) to spool up big turbos it might not appeal to them. Still soon this tech will be used in the future, hell look how many cars are turbo charged for efficiency reasons.
Look how many companies are perusing e-assist turbos as well. What if you could find a way to run the motor off the cars existing electrical system, then no need for re-charge. Just an idea, though it would be hard to find a motor that will spin fast enough at 12v while supplying enough torque to compress air that quickly so maybe not. This could still benefit drag cars because think, no turbo in exhaust = less exhaust restriction and lower temp intake charge. No belt driven supercharger = no parasitic draw. Even auto-x cars benefit because no turbo lag if set up properly. Only disadvantage could be weight but there is less piping to deal with and such so that is debatable as well. Also with less heat going into the "turbo", there is a lot less stress and should last longer.
 
Exactly and that is what the magnelli hybrid turbo is for f-1 forget what team though. Check this little blurI
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b I read the other day.
 
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