Before any conclusion can be made you need to check oil pressure with some forms of gauge to see what your actual oil pressure is. May be as simple as a faulty oil pressure switch

Before I spent a lot of money, I would verify the oil pressure. Most shops will do an in line check to see what the oil pressure is. May just be a bad sending unit. Or purchase a mechanical gauge and check it yourself. I've heard rumors that switching to synthetic from conventional oil could cause problems. Don't know if there is any truth to that or not though.

I believe mine hold 10# of pressure at idle.

Good luck, hope it's just a bad sending unit.

Recommendations on gauges to use or write ups on installs?

Where is the needle at on the stock oil pressure gauge at idle? While it doesn't tell you much, it at least tells you if it's high or low.

You can get something like this to check your oil pressure without installing an actual gauge: http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

Make sure the connection at the sender is good. As has been mentioned already, it may just be bad (it costs less than $10 BTW). Any unusual noises when the light comes on (like noise from lifters collapsing from no oil pressure)? Did it do this before you changed the oil/filter, or did you change the oil/filter immediately after buying the car?

The stock gauge does not move. Ever. I figured it was a previous owner splice hack job that left it dysfunctional. No weird noises when it happens and the car runs great. I did immediately change all fluids seeing as it was an auction car and sat for an unknown amount of time

Get a oil pressure gauge and wire it up. Clearly you need one anyway and it's an important thing to know that. Wouldn't trust a factory gauge

Check under your car and see if the black connector is attached. If its not, then that is why the needle never moves. Should not have to do with the low oil pressure light though.

Stolen pic-

Mine has similar symptoms when I bought it. I adjusted the BISS screw and just ran 20w50 and never had an issue again.

NY 95 TSI AWD said:

Check under your car and see if the black connector is attached. If its not, then that is why the needle never moves. Should not have to do with the low oil pressure light though.

Stolen pic-

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Actually I believe that sensor is directly related to the oil light. If that wire is missing or not connected it can trip the light.

So step 1, Check pressure sender and wire, if all good -
2. Get aftermarket gauge and figure out how to set it up. If shows low -
3. Try heavier weight oil. If still on -
4. Replace electrical issues if discovered, If not solved -
5. Oil pump is going out, cry heavily, sell car, regret for rest of life?

And what would adjusting the BISS do for me without link or ecu monitoring? It would just be guess work right? Plus my issue is that it idles too high (1200)

Don't rely on the stock oil pressure sensors. That's your first mistake. One of my first mods on each of my DSM's is a wideband, boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. More precise knowledge on what's happening inside the engine, you're just guessing.

Glowshift, autometer, any electronic gauge for oil pressure is acceptable.

Glowshit, autometer, or prosport are some of the best cheap options. If you are looking for a great longterm solution I'd go with AEM.

I personally run Rotella T6 for oil if you are looking for a recommendation on that.

If your oil pump is really going out I'd suggest looking around on CL for parts people were intending to install but never did. My friend got about six grand worth of parts from a guy for eleven-hundred. A couple hundred for cleaning and assembly and he will have a great 9.5 compression 2.2L stroker with a 2g head (better flow), 282 cams, as well as pretty much everything else you'd want in a head. He hasn't assembled any of it but he got all of that for a steal off CL.

A complete build can be made on pratically nothing if you look around.

I got an oil pressure gauge on order. Gusu, I would love to do that, Love to. I just live in an apartment and need to DD it, so that means 1 day time limits and no lift/hoist/ air-compressor/ ect.

Chances are its fine though, the factory oil pressure sensors just read however they are feeling that day.

Worst case your oil pressure is low throughout the RPM range, just run a slightly thicker oil and look out for a used 7 bolt as you dont know if its the oil pump or just really worn bearings with too much clearance.

If its just at idle and you have DSM link, you can bump the idle up. Adjusting the idle with just the BISS will burn out the ISC as it will still aim you for the factory ~750rpm idle.

I have to say, This forum and you people are the best thing about owning a DSM (besides, you know, everything) . I will report back with any more info. Thanks for being so apt and willing to help a first time owner.

No problemo. We've all been there before.

oneslowwdsm said:

Actually I believe that sensor is directly related to the oil light. If that wire is missing or not connected it can trip the light.

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It would make sense, but I used to have mine fall off when I went wot (scared the heck out of me the first time it happened) and the needle would not work but I never had the low oil light come on. I think its strictly for the "gauge on the dash", but not totally sure.

Well it WAS dragging on the ground. SO I bent it up and clipped in back on. Now the stock Gauge reads right in the middle while driving and I can't get the light to come back on, but I might chock that up to it being -9 degrees here right now.

Hell yea. At least the gauge works now. Lets see if the light comes back. If it does, get a real gauge or pressure tester as stated by other above.
Edit- Just saw you have a gauge on order. That's really the best way to go.

This may have been mentioned but I didn't see it.
The threads on an aftermarket gauge often times are different than the ones on your OFH or any other sensor hole for that matter. They look the same and will start to thread in but when if you tighten them down there could be enough damage to not allow a stock sensor to seal when you reinstall it. Our cars use a metric pipe thread mNPT which is the same as BSPT(British standard pipe thread) not NPT(national pipe thread)which is standard equipment with most domestic origin gauge sets. Both types of threads look similar so be sure of what you have before tightening any further than finger tight. Adapters are available so if your new gauge has the wrong thread its a simple fix.

Ive use prosport for years never break down as with a lot of things, everyone will have different experiences.

So, I am still waiting for my after market gauge to come but I got the stock gauge lethargically working. It seems to run as normal but from day to day (seemingly at random) it will bring the oil light on still at low Rpm's even when the stock gauge reads right in the middle. Could the sensor for the idiot light just be on the fritz?

If memory serves there are two sensors. Crawl under and look.