geno414 said:

My boost leak test I made does not hold the boost very well

...

I know my timing is set right dsm link says it's at 5* before I start it...

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Everyone....hold up.

First of all, I don't believe the OP has completed the most basic thing there is on a DSM, which is a BLT to hold 5 PSI more than his set boost. By his own admission, his tester is not even adequate for the job. No offense, but based on that and several other comments in this thread (such as the timing comment above) I believe it is most likely a waste of time to be looking at logs at this point. We have a forum specifically for reviewing logs and helping with tuning, but the prerequisite for that is to go through the mechanical checklist first.

Want Log File Advice? Follow this Template!

OP - I suggest you look over that list, and go through each item on it. In addition to being required for any meaningful review of your logs, it will most likely uncover and help you resolve several other issues you may be having. At the very least it will give you a plan of attack rather than just guessing.

Feel free to help the OP with BLT, timing, and other issues he has. If he wants a log reviewed or help with tuning, he can fill out the checklist I linked to and post in the tuning section.

Do a fuel pressure test and compression test then go from there

rough said:

Seems like the owner made it private

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I am the owner I uploaded it from my phone I'm a noob when it comes to that I'll see if my gf can fix it but I posted a log can any one tell me what they think with my log

Calan said:

Everyone....hold up.

First of all, I don't believe the OP has completed the most basic thing there is on a DSM, which is a BLT to hold 5 PSI more than his set boost. By his own admission, his tester is not even adequate for the job. No offense, but based on that and several other comments in this thread (such as the timing comment above) I believe it is most likely a waste of time to be looking at logs at this point. We have a forum specifically for reviewing logs and helping with tuning, but the prerequisite for that is to go through the mechanical checklist first.

Want Log File Advice? Follow this Template!

OP - I suggest you look over that list, and go through each item on it. In addition to being required for any meaningful review of your logs, it will most likely uncover and help you resolve several other issues you may be having. At the very least it will give you a plan of attack rather than just guessing.

Feel free to help the OP with BLT, timing, and other issues he has. If he wants a log reviewed or help with tuning, he can fill out the checklist I linked to and post in the tuning section.

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Look man I don't need you to be a jerk ok I told you I DO NOT have a boost leak I fixed the one I had I had one on the intake manifold my car is timed right so I really do not know what else you want from me just because my boost leak tester does not hold 5 psi over my max boost does not mean I have a boost leak I have one person hold the test in and I can go well over 5 psi witch I did I went all the way up to 30 psi wit h my car is set at 21.5 psi as of 2012. I am not asking for help for tuning not at all I am asking for advice on how to fix my car problem like I said I was driving the car completely normal and I replaced a alternator belt and put some stp red bottle in it and now my car runs the way it runs if I didn't have a boost leak then I sure don't have a boost leak from the car sitting in my back yard for 4 days and even after I fixed every problem I had .

Switched power transistor with known working one

Temp sensor good to go

Knock sensor good to go

Coil pack good to go plugs good gapped at .28 and went all the way to .32

Tested ingectors working dead time set good to go

NO BOOST LEAKS

Fresh gas new fuel filter in take and in line .

New battery .

New tps set right

Isc adjusted right

. Just shooting things out I am not trying to be a jerk or mean . I just need my car running and need advice that's all thanks for your time

inthemidst said:

Do a fuel pressure test and compression test then go from there

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Ok I will do that asap thank you for your help ! Fuel pressure is at 43.5psi right now will do a wet and dry test asap

geno414 said:

Look man I don't need you to be a jerk ok I told you I DO NOT have a boost leak

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I wasn't being a jerk; I was trying (very hard) to be tactful in telling everyone else that you need to fix your mechanical problems before focusing on log advice. And since you said your tester was inadequate, how in the hell are we supposed to believe that you truly got rid of ALL your boost leaks? Show me a MAP trace that holds at 5 psi above your target boost for over a minute, and I'll believe you. In fact, I'll settle for 10 secs.

Tell ya what I'll do.... I'll bow out of this conversation completely, and you can carry on. And if I see any more discussion about logs in this thread, I'll just move it to the tuning forum, or close it completely if I feel like being a real jerk. How's that?

Good luck.

Calan said:

I wasn't being a jerk; I was trying (very hard) to be tactful in telling everyone else that you need to fix your mechanical problems before focusing on log advice. And since you said your tester was inadequate, how in the hell are we supposed to believe that you truly got rid of ALL your boost leaks? Show me a MAP trace that holds at 5 psi above your target boost for over a minute, and I'll believe you. In fact, I'll settle for 10 secs.

Tell ya what I'll do.... I'll bow out of this conversation completely, and you can carry on. And if I see any more discussion about logs in this thread, I'll just move it to the tuning forum, or close it completely if I feel like being a real jerk. How's that?

Good luck.

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Do whatever the hell you want man I really do not cair I am trying to fix my car move this thing to what ever place you want if you have that much time on your hands as long as it helps me .

Calan said:

I wasn't being a jerk; I was trying (very hard) to be tactful in telling everyone else that you need to fix your mechanical problems before focusing on log advice. And since you said your tester was inadequate, how in the hell are we supposed to believe that you truly got rid of ALL your boost leaks? Show me MAP trace that holds at 5 psi above your target boost for over a minute, and I'll believe you. In fact, I'll settle for 10 secs.

Tell ya what I'll do.... I'll bow out of this conversation completely, and you can carry on. And if I see any more discussion about logs in this thread, I'll just move it to the tuning forum, or close it completely if I feel like being a real jerk. How's that?

Good luck.

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I had lots and lots of leaks during summer fixed them only reason why I had a leak was because of a cap on my intake manifold witch I fixed I timed my car right with the time light

geno414 said:

660 cc set to 180 and off the top of my head I think global is around -30 or something I'm st work tho ik my ingectors r set up right tho the car has a protune on it I started it up and it seems to run a little bit better don't know why tho

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check it actually again...

is it good already?

No its not good and I have been with out my car for about 2 weeks now I just keep going over everything and looking it over but nothing adds up

AllanL said:

check it actually again...

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Injectors. 660 cc

Base fuel psi 43.5 psi

Stoichometric ratio 14.7:1

-32.4%

That's what I have my injectors set at never had a problem with them and I tested them and all work.

The newest update I can give is I checked to see is my time was on or off and I took the timing gun to it and the gun didn't work but in dsmlink my base time is set to 5* top dead center and the time marks line up .
I swapped out the spark plugs again and the burn of them are a charcoal on the new plugs and old and I tested every plug wire to make sure it's all working tested every injector by turning one by one off at a time and all worked well checked for any engine codes everything reset all my sensors and recalibrate all my sensors wide band o2 ect.

I had this same problem today and I just fixed it. It jumped timing by like 3 teeth, it had the same symptoms like the ones you are experience but they went away, Your Timing marks aligned both at the cam gears and at the crankshaft?

poi3 said:

I had this same problem today and I just fixed it. It jumped timing by like 3 teeth, it had the same symptoms like the ones you are experience but they went away, Your Timing marks aligned both at the cam gears and at the crankshaft?

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As far as I could see yea even the log I posted had my time looking kinda funny but when I was spinning it they looked lined up its -25 out and snowing right now I'll have to wait a bit to work on it but you have the same symptoms you say?

geno414 said:

As far as I could see yea even the log I posted had my time looking kinda funny but when I was spinning it they looked lined up its -25 out and snowing right now I'll have to wait a bit to work on it but you have the same symptoms you say?

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yessir, the same symptoms, it sounded like it had aftermarket cams, and there was a ticking noise to it as well, mine was off by 3 teeth, i dont know why it jumped, perhaps my tensioner pulley wasn't installed correctly

This seems to be a common theme, people go on a goose chase without backing up to the previous point where the car was running correctly first. You said the problem started when you swapped your alternator belt, and then added a bottle of STP.

Let's assume that during your maintenance, you did not upset any other subsystems in the car. You didn't bump a harness, you didn't accidentally snip a wire, puncture a vacuum line etc... This would obviously limit your problem to one of the two things you initially changed. So I'm wondering why your first step, as per your description, was to swap the plugs?

BTW, in the future, stay away from STP crap. You don't need fuel additives because gasoline is already a solvent. You also don't need oil treatments you just need the correct oil and regular change intervals.

In spite of my blunt delivery I'm interested to hear what the solution ends up being. Keep us posted.

Check timing belt and cam sensor

poi3 said:

yessir, the same symptoms, it sounded like it had aftermarket cams, and there was a ticking noise to it as well, mine was off by 3 teeth, i dont know why it jumped, perhaps my tensioner pulley wasn't installed correctly

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did a comp test and it came back good checked to see if my timing was off. nope time is dead on top dead center both my marks line up .

this is a long shot but could a bad temp sensor cause this I know bad or disconnected it -75 on link but I unplugged mine and it ran the same ...

iceguru1114 said:

This seems to be a common theme, people go on a goose chase without backing up to the previous point where the car was running correctly first. You said the problem started when you swapped your alternator belt, and then added a bottle of STP.

Let's assume that during your maintenance, you did not upset any other subsystems in the car. You didn't bump a harness, you didn't accidentally snip a wire, puncture a vacuum line etc... This would obviously limit your problem to one of the two things you initially changed. So I'm wondering why your first step, as per your description, was to swap the plugs?

BTW, in the future, stay away from STP crap. You don't need fuel additives because gasoline is already a solvent. You also don't need oil treatments you just need the correct oil and regular change intervals.

In spite of my blunt delivery I'm interested to hear what the solution ends up being. Keep us posted.

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well I changed the plugs because I had old ones in my car and thought they were just bad but it didn't make any change and yea im going to stay away from STP! and oil stuff but I did go back to day one and nothing really adds up I mean I have my oil psi gauge grounded to my alternator but even when I un hook that it still runs the same even tested the alternator and it came back good all my grounds are good and all my harness are good also .

Ever try a different ecu? Could possibly be a bad knock board or failing.cap ud be surprised , take a peak inside your ecu for corrosion or bad capacitors or shorts anything stand.out.from that day? And this.is a long shot.but maybe.your.fuel pump didnt like that stp just a thought also ever try a coniniuity test from the knock sensor to you ecu? Wiggle the wires and see if theyare broken inside the insulation , hopeing youll figure this issue.out!

inthemidst said:

Check timing belt and cam sensor

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I looked up symptoms of a b cas and any of them ?

o0GuitarKid0o said:

Ever try a different ecu? Could possibly be a bad knock board or failing.cap ud be surprised , take a peak inside your ecu for corrosion or bad capacitors or shorts anything stand.out.from that day? And this.is a long shot.but maybe.your.fuel pump didnt like that stp just a thought also ever try a coniniuity test from the knock sensor to you ecu? Wiggle the wires and see if theyare broken inside the insulation , hopeing youll figure this issue.out!

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ill c open my row and I have my knock sensor hard wired in just put a n maybe 3 months ago but hod I go about testing it all I did was swap it with a different one but same thing idk man thanks for the help . I did the hole check list so can some one look at my log? now

• geno414 said:

  ill c open my row and I have my knock sensor hard wired in just put a n maybe 3 months ago but hod I go about testing it all I did was swap it with a different one but same thing idk man thanks for the help . I did the hole check list so can some one look at my log? now

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Actually id.like to add another thing , when you.changed.plugs did you double check that your spark plug wires are in the correct fireing order?on both side, coil and plug ? Ignore if you no its not that issue