2gmitsueclipse said:

Do you drive in the rain? Do you participate in track days or autocross?Is your car lowered?

I have multiple sets of Evo Enkeis. I have a set with Bridgestone Potenza RE760 tires that seem fine in everyday type of driving. I only have them because they were nearly new for $200. They perform well from spring to fall. They also perform well in the rain with little road noise.

My personal favorite for autocross and track days would be the Dunlop z2. An absolutely fantastic tire that meets the minimum tread wear for my classing. Excellent grip in a multitude of temperature ranges and decent in wet weather for a dry tire. They also have really good response when they are reaching their limit.

I run 235/45/17 for the Potenza (normal street driving), and 245/40/17 on the Dunlops. I have a stock ride height that needed a light fender roll in the rear to accommodate the 245 Dunlops for hard cornering.

Think of your budget and how long you want the tire to last. If I did not worry about costs, I would run the Dunlop on the street as well. They also have a rather good price point with superior performance to other tires in it's class. Keep in mind, the lower the tread wear (better grip), the less life they will have.

Feel free to check out the white 2g in my profile for pics. Any action shots (on pavement) are the 245 Dunlop, and stills are 235 Potenza.

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91_gst said:

Im currently running 215/45r17 with extenza hp. I was really lookin for an autocross tire for maximum grip I can get for wet and dry that looks good fitment wise

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9!'clipseDOHC said:

This thread has long been dead but I started working on this anyway. I think that it will be very beneficial to DSMers looking to get into autox and hopefully can also serve as a quick reference guide for current autoxers as well since most of us are only familiar with our own classes.

Please go through and let me know if anything is incorrect or should be changed or added. I don't care if it sounds nit-picky or minor, I want to make this article really good and useful. I am pretty new to the sport myself and am also no longer autoxing my DSM and am instead racing my Evo in STU, so that is what I am most familiar with.

I have a few clarifications to ask about right off the bat. What class would aftermarket cams move you into? Level 1 Prepared? Also what about stroker motors? if you know of any other common DSM mods that aren't covered let me know also and I will add them.

Without further adu (sp?), here is what I've got so far:


DSMtuners.com SCCA SOLO Autocross Guide

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Below is a quick reference guide for selecting an SCCA SOLO Autocross class. For full rules, download the 2012 SCCA Rulebook. The following guide applies to the 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, and Plymouth Laser models. Any modification in a lower class can also be used in a higher class. Any modification not specifically allowed is prohibited.

But first, what is Autocross? Autocross is a type of amateur racing event focusing both on driver skill and vehicle handling and performance. Most Autocross events take place in parking lots or abandoned airfields with cones laying out the course. Because of this they are found all over the country and are more affordable then road course racing events. They generally feature speeds no faster the what you would encounter on a public highway. Autocross events build driver skill, provide an safe outlet for performance driving, and invoke some serious competition!

SCCA Autocross, also called SOLO, is based on a PAX index, which is basically a handicap designed to equalize all cars and focus on the driver's skill. Cars are placed into classes based on the type of car and modifications done. Each class is assigned a PAX modifier which is multiplied to your raw lap time to equal your PAX time, which is what is scored. For instance, an all stock GSX in DS has a PAX of .821 while an all stock GS has a PAX of .799. If the GSX ran the course in 60 seconds, his PAX time would be 49.26 (60x.821=49.26). So, for the GS to beat him, he would only need to run faster then a 61.65 (49.26/.799=61.65).

Ready to get started? To find races near you, click the Find Your Region link on the SCCA website.

Stock Class:

The stock class provides a nice way to be compete without spending a whole bunch of money on performance parts. However, since most DSM's are now 13-23 years old, they have at least a few modifications done that will bump them up in class. Even something as simple as a hacked air can, a downpipe, or a performance clutch will prevent you from being eligible to compete in the stock class. In the stock class you can run DOT legal R-comp tires such as the Hoosier A6, Goodyear Eagle RS, Hankook Z214, and Kumho V710.

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• DS: Turbo/AWD PAX: 0.821
• GS: Turbo/FWD PAX: 0.814
• HS: Non-turbo/FWD PAX: 0.799

Engine Mods Allowed:
OEM style drop in air filter in stock "unhacked" air can.
Cat-back exhaust
Any spark plugs or wires
0.020" overbore w/OEM cast pistons of same weight and CR
Oil catch cans (provided the PCV still functions)
Silicone hoses

Suspension and Brake Mods Allowed:
DOT legal tires regardless of treadware rating
Shock Absorbers (OEM Style, no more than 2-way adjustable)
Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware
Aftermarket wheels (OEM width & diameter, offset within +/- .25inch including spacers)
Extended wheel studs and aftermarket lug nuts
SS Brake and clutch lines are allowed for cars 89-92 model years only
OEM fitment Brake pads of any material
"Speedbleeders" are allowed
Alignments must be made with OEM allowable adjustments

Other Mods Allowed:
Aftermarket gauges
Turbo timers
Grounding kits
Dataloggers
Hood pins
Alternate steering wheels (within 1" of OEM diameter and must retain airbag if originally equipped) and shift knobs
Spare tire, tools, and jack my be removed
Roll bars and cages
Scattershields


Street Touring Class:

The street touring class is designed around using normal, every day street tires. It is for this reason that it has a nice low PAX and also allows for a large number of basic modifications to help turn your daily driver or street car into a well-rounded autox car. It is also generally a very affordable class to race in with basic mods most people do anyway and without the high cost of dedicated track wheels and tires. The tires of choice for street touring are the Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec and the Hankook R-S3, although any extreme/max performance summer tire will still work well.

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• STX: Turbo/FWD/AWD PAX: 0.822
• STC: Non-Turbo/FWD PAX: 0.820

Engine Mods Allowed:
Lightweight battery (must be 12 volts)
Battery may be relocated to the trunk
Baffled oil pans
Intake system up to the turbo inlet for turbo car or throttle body for N/A cars. (MAF must remain in stock location)
Exhaust manifolds, headers, downpipes, high flow cat.
ECU tuning using V3, piggybacks, chips, or flashes (except boost control must remain stock)
Lightweight pulleys
Polyurethane motor mounts
LSD: STX AWD - No aftermarket LSD's can be added, STX FWD - Any LSD can be added, STC - No LSD's can be added

Suspension and Brake Mods Allowed:
Any struts including coilovers
Lowering springs
Polyurethane suspension bushings
Adjustable camber plates
Camber bolts
2-point upper strut bars may be added front and rear
Substitution, addition, or removal of any anti-roll bars
Tires must have a minimum treadware rating of 140
Maximum tire width: STX AWD - 245, STX FWD - 265, STC - 225
Maximum rim width: STX ADW - 8", STX FWD - 9", STC - 7.5"
Any metal brake rotors (must be equal to or larger then stock, can be drilled or slotted)
Any calipers (must have same or greater number of pistons)
SS brake lines
Brake air ducts
ABS may be disabled but not removed

Other Mods Allowed:
Front seats may be replaced (New seats must weight at least 25 lbs and be fully upholstered)
Mud flaps, rear wings, front lips, fog lights may be removed
OEM wings my be added from other DSM's
Any steering wheel (must retain air bag if originally equipped)
Fender lips may be rolled but not cut or flared


Street Prepared Class:

The street prepared class is where you start to see some more power and are again allowed to race on DOT legal R-compound tires. You can up the boost and add in the supporting mods like fuel, clutch, and intercooler. However, the added power can often be more of a hindrance then a help to new drivers. If that is the case, focus on the skills and seat time instead of more performance parts.

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• ESP: Turbo/FWD/AWD PAX: 0.848
• FSP: Non-Turbo/FWD PAX: 0.838

Engine Mods Allowed:
Any size fuel injectors, lines, pumps
Aftermarket intake manifold
FMIC of any size
Aftermarket reticulated bypass valves may be used (this also allows the use of a 1g bypass valve on a 2g)
Manual boost controllers
ECU tuning (including boost tables)
Water injection systems
Any exhaust (as long as it is quiet and terminates behind the driver)
Upgraded radiators (must mount in same location and must be the same size or larger)
Cooling fans and shrouds can be changed
Any clutch and flywheel
LSD's are allowed to be added
0.0472" overbore w/OEM cast pistons of same weight and CR
Intake and exhaust ports and opening my be port matched up to 1"
Adjustable Cam pulleys

Suspension and Brake Mods Allowed:
Wheels of any diameter, width, or offset may be used
Wheel spacers
ABS may be disabled but not removed
Any brake line, master cylinder, vacuum brake booster, or brake pro- portioning valve may be used.

Other Mods Allowed:
Remove A/C system
Any steering wheel can be used (even if it removes the airbag)
Any fully upholstered front seats can be used regardless of weight
Front lips can be added
Rear spoilers may be added (can not extend more then 10" from the bodywork in any direction)
Fuel cell can be installed (must be within 20% of factory capacity and mounted within 6" of original)
Radio and speaker can be removed (but not the wiring)
Sunroof cars can be converted to solid roofs
Rear view mirror and sun visors can be removed


Street Modified Class:

To be fully built in the street modified class takes a lot of time and money. It also pushes the border between street car and race car. Yet in spite of this, most DSMers wind up in this class due to previous mods. A carbon fiber hood, turbo upgrade, or atmospherically vented BOV by themselves will land you in this class. If you find yourself here, don't despair, it just means you have the ability to do more mods without jumping classes! The big thing here is upgraded turbos. Chose wisely and try to balance between quick spool and high power!

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• SM: AWD PAX: 0.866
• SMF: FWD PAX: 0.852

Engine Mods Allowed:
Engine swaps with other DSM's
Any fuel system (5 gallon minimum fuel cell. Fuel cell must be at least 6" away from the ground)
Metal motor and drivetrain mounts
Any turbo
Any ignition system
Blow off valves vented to the atmosphere

Suspension and Brake Mods Allowed:
Any drivetrain
Any brakes (except for carbon or ceramic rotors)

Other Mods Allowed:
Carbon fiber or fiberglass hood and front fenders
Rear passenger seats and seat belts my be removed
Spliters, spoilers, and canards can be added
Aftermarket side mirrors my be installed (must have 15 sq. in. of reflective material)
Pop-up headlights can be converted to static headlights (must retain high and low beams)

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91_gst said:

What would also be a good winter tire?

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91_gst said:

Id rather have it cut through snow and slush. If dunlops are in my budget then what ate the best for that

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91_gst said:

Most likely street prepaired class, maybe street modified class is what im goin for

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