Everything I searched was from back in the day. I really want HKS 272s but DKS seems to be an affordable solution. Is anyone here actually running these cams? Please don't respond with what you have "heard" about these cams. I want first hand experience. Thanks

I run the DKS 264/272 combo. The idle is similar to stock, the car pulls all the way to redline without any problems now. With the 264/272 combo i didn't notice much loss of low end power, not that these cars have much anyways. I had used the shims in the kit on all of my lifters. FFWD is great at getting the parts to you fast, I would recomend these to anybody who is looking for a quality set of affordable cams.

playitlouddsm said:

I run the DKS 264/272 combo. The idle is similar to stock, the car pulls all the way to redline without any problems now. With the 264/272 combo i didn't notice much loss of low end power, not that these cars have much anyways. I had used the shims in the kit on all of my lifters. FFWD is great at getting the parts to you fast, I would recomend these to anybody who is looking for a quality set of affordable cams.

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Awesome. I'm thinking of going with 272s but I really don't want to lose any bottom end. Since I'm Auto my bottom end sucks.

Im running the 272's. They idle really rough but pull very hard up top. I like them.




Joe
SBR

Yeah, but who cares about idle?

how much are the cams?

Try looking at their website.


FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

Just bought mine today. 409 shipped

I'm running the 272s as well. I'm just now breaking in the motor and setting up DSMLink, and got the thing idling nice at 850 RPM. I pulled the valve cover, re-torqued the head and checked the cam base circle to rocker roller clearance, and they move easily rotationally. I used the shims in my kit, just wondering if this this normal??? The rocker won't fall out, it just has some play in it. I'm using 3G lifters, and yes, I primed them before they were installed. There is no lifter tick whatsoever after a few seconds of running, as the cam base circle and rocker roller are still in contact.

so do these cams have to be drilled and tapped?

FenixTX717 said:

so do these cams have to be drilled and tapped?

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yes for a 2g

Blindsey said:

Just bought mine today. 409 shipped

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Did you buy something else with them because the website says they are $297?

Probably not that post was over a year ago.

The extra cost is because of the core charge on the cams. Also, I'm running the 264/272 combo and i have them tuned to where you can't even tell there's cams in it at idle (i actually wanted some more lope, but don't want to kill the tune to get it )

I keep meaning to email this info to Darren at FFWD about the shims and the revised lifters as he said he hadn't measured them installed. But by using the micrometer i've determined that even with the new taller 3g (revised) Topline lifters you still need to use the shims ) no big deal but putting the info out there.

I'm going to get a 272 for the intake as well when my budy goes to 288's. I've played with timing the cams a little bit and they have responded great. ON the exhast i've ran both advance and retarded 4 degrees from centerline, the advance really made the motor pull up to and past 8k RPM with ease ( i got to see 8440 on a data log and grinned from ear to ear since my rev limiter is at 8500 right now ). On the other hand the last few tanks of gas have been run at 4 degrees retarded. This has caused the motor to become a little more of a gas guzzler in the low end and mid range with minimal gains in power. I have a medium sized turbo and although it's laggy the hit didn't seem to improve enough with the retarded cam timing compared to the 4* advaned enough for me to feel like there was any real bennefit to running that way and i'm going back to the 4 advanced and might even advance the intake cam as well and see what happens.

Make sure you break your cams in (most people don't even know you're supposed to) Darren at FFWD said i could do them just like we do our V8's and porsches so that's what i did... Here's what you do.. Make sure the motor will start and run before you tear into it, get the job done using plenty of assembly lube on the journals ( i prefer the red "ultra slick" from permatex) then when the motor is back together, proven to be timed correctly and is ready to go, start the motor and immediately bring the engine to about 2500 RPM or so. Hold the motor at this RPM for a good 10 minutes (we do 15 on most of the shop cars, it's annoying but proven to be worth doing from what i understand) Being that they are re-grinds i'm unsure of how important this step is but darren said it couldnt' hurt to do it, so just for good measure i recomend that you do as well.

So to re-cap.. DKS = great cams ..My exp. w/ the 264/272 combo is great and i like them best with the intake straight up and the exhaust advanced 4*. Use plenty of assembly lube, break the cams in properly and enjoy

I've always heard good things about Darren and his cams at FFWD. Does he still warranty them as well?

Before i found my Hks's that i'll be using, I was looking into a company called Delta Cams. They've been doing regrinds for years and a lot of Hondas as well. I read a lot of places that they do great work! I spoke to them on the phone and they said they had a 264/272/280 grind for $90 a cam including shims as well. Has anyone heard of any dsm's using them?

anyone know or could give me more info on how to or what i need to do to get them installed in my 2g. i know they have to be drilled and tapped or one of the 2 but need to know how or pictures or something.

I've searched the forums and haven't found that much luck besides everyone likes them. There isn't a write up or info on the install.

FenixTX717 said:

anyone know or could give me more info on how to or what i need to do to get them installed in my 2g. i know they have to be drilled and tapped or one of the 2 but need to know how or pictures or something.

I've searched the forums and haven't found that much luck besides everyone likes them. There isn't a write up or info on the install.

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I've never seen a pictorial on how to drill and tap the cams but it's really easy. On the intake cam you drill into the back where the cam angle sensor goes then tap it for the bolt inside the 2g CAS. The rest of the cam install can be found on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions under "engine"

Now, back to the cam IIRC (and double check me since i don't have the bolt or a 2g cam here) but if I do remember right you dill and tap it for an M8 x 1.25 bolt (the thread of a metric bolt that typically has a 12 or 13mm head on it if i'm right) the cam is kinda tapered in the end to where you can get centered easy, you just have to take your time and drill dtraight in, and even at that it's not a vital "get it right or the motor dies" type of situation because the bolt just holds the CAS into the cam. I've seen them hacked up nasty and still work, the main thing is not to damage the cam bearing or lobe faces while holding it for drilling and tapping. I will clamp the part where you can put a wrench on the cam to keep it from turning and then center it up in my drill press and go to town. But, i have a clamp that will allow me to have the cam hang under neath it and still be able to center it on the press (you can get the drill press clamp at harbor freight if you have one near by). You can also just use a regular vice and just clamp the cam in one side of the jaws and let it hang below the table top surface... If you do it that way, take another of the old cams and put it on the other side of the vice jaws if you can to help the vice get a better grip on the cam you're working on

If you need the info on what size to drill and tap let me know and ill dig it up, i know i've got it written down somewhere around here, it's just a matter of digging it up or looking in the srvice manual I cna also get you the drill size if you need, but the tap should have it marked as to what size to use

turboglenn said:

I've never seen a pictorial on how to drill and tap the cams but it's really easy. On the intake cam you drill into the back where the cam angle sensor goes then tap it for the bolt inside the 2g CAS. The rest of the cam install can be found on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions under "engine"

Now, back to the cam IIRC (and double check me since i don't have the bolt or a 2g cam here) but if I do remember right you dill and tap it for an M8 x 1.25 bolt (the thread of a metric bolt that typically has a 12 or 13mm head on it if i'm right) the cam is kinda tapered in the end to where you can get centered easy, you just have to take your time and drill dtraight in, and even at that it's not a vital "get it right or the motor dies" type of situation because the bolt just holds the CAS into the cam. I've seen them hacked up nasty and still work, the main thing is not to damage the cam bearing or lobe faces while holding it for drilling and tapping. I will clamp the part where you can put a wrench on the cam to keep it from turning and then center it up in my drill press and go to town. But, i have a clamp that will allow me to have the cam hang under neath it and still be able to center it on the press (you can get the drill press clamp at harbor freight if you have one near by). You can also just use a regular vice and just clamp the cam in one side of the jaws and let it hang below the table top surface... If you do it that way, take another of the old cams and put it on the other side of the vice jaws if you can to help the vice get a better grip on the cam you're working on

If you need the info on what size to drill and tap let me know and ill dig it up, i know i've got it written down somewhere around here, it's just a matter of digging it up or looking in the srvice manual I cna also get you the drill size if you need, but the tap should have it marked as to what size to use

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That would be great, the more info the better as I've heard nothing but good news on the DKS cams but no one seems to add the part of installing them. I got a little scared of the install because of hearing that you have to drill and tap these cams but also have heard that it's pretty easy to do but I'm not good at things like this . I just my cams in the car so I can tune and be done with it!

Can i use my stock springs and retainers. I am just getting my motor and car together I am considering these cams since I know they are better than a set of BC 272s and I wanted to know what i needed to get these cams running right. Do i need springs and retainers or just springs? Do i need beehives?

toofast82 said:

I've always heard good things about Darren and his cams at FFWD. Does he still warranty them as well?

Before i found my Hks's that i'll be using, I was looking into a company called Delta Cams. They've been doing regrinds for years and a lot of Hondas as well. I read a lot of places that they do great work! I spoke to them on the phone and they said they had a 264/272/280 grind for $90 a cam including shims as well. Has anyone heard of any dsm's using them?

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Could be wrong here but I'm pretty sure delta grinds these sticks for FFWD.

I'm also running the 272s with supertech duals. I had to use the shims on all lifters as well . The car pulls all the way to 9k on a hx35. You can use some timing advance to dial out the lumpy idle for the most part if you want. In my experience the lifters should not be wedged in and should be able to wiggle slightly but you shouldn't be able to yank it out by hand easily or at all.

dfootedsm said:

Can i use my stock springs and retainers. I am just getting my motor and car together I am considering these cams since I know they are better than a set of BC 272s and I wanted to know what i needed to get these cams running right. Do i need springs and retainers or just springs? Do i need beehives?

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Your high mileage stock spring stand a chance of being weak, so a new set of springs would be advised.

How do you know the DKS cams are better than the BC 272 cams?

phr0st said:

Could be wrong here but I'm pretty sure delta grinds these sticks for FFWD.

I'm also running the 272s with supertech duals. I had to use the shims on all lifters as well . The car pulls all the way to 9k on a hx35. You can use some timing advance to dial out the lumpy idle for the most part if you want. In my experience the lifters should not be wedged in and should be able to wiggle slightly but you shouldn't be able to yank it out by hand easily or at all.

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The shims are commonly used due to the smaller than stock base circle of the cam when compared to the stock cam base circle. Add into the min valve tip spec height also and the shims are needed.

If the valve tip height is at the max spec, sometimes the shims will not be needed even with the small base circle

@BogusSVO I know that HKS 272 get better reviews than BC272s . If DKS 272s are HKS clones then one would think that they would be better than BC 272s just using logic is all? Do you feel otherwise? Im trying to gather information the cams are not really new anymore so I feel as if there are definitely some real world reviews are out there.

There is some, and even on this board. Look at the cam test done by Keltalon.

But I have installed many BC272 in heads, some of the locals to me love them.

But the cam that is best for one build is not best for every build.