You arent even close. You aren't tensioning the pulley correctly. Are you using the threaded rod?
Even worse if you were driving it like that its a failure waiting to happen.

Your tension pulley needs to be turned more clockwise, to where those two holes are more at a 11 and 1 o'clock position rather than the 9 and 11 o'clock position they are at right now. These aren't exact positions by any means but turning it clockwise is how you will get the rod down and more tension on the belt. It needs rotated clockwise until the previously posted specification is met.

If these pictures represent where it was set when the job was finished last time, it was incorrect at that point. What puzzles me is it couldn't have been set that loosely and still allow the grenade pin be pulled from the tensioner body and rod by hand easily at all.

I didnt see where it was pulled easily.....just that it was pulled. OP?

Also when your aligning the cams, it helps if u have a big ruler, or straight edge, or level is what I used. There are outside marks, and inside marks on the stock cam gears. You Need to get all four lined up, not just the inside ones, and definitely agree u aren't anywhere close on the tensioner. U should be able to tension it, pull the grenade pin, rotate the motor a full cycle, let it sit, then still be able to slide the grenade pin back in.

Pauleyman, I don't have the threaded rod. This will be the 25th attempt, cams, op and the crank are all lined up. I haven't started it since. The belt is tight all around im gonna redo it i just can't figure out why the plunger keeps coming up.

oThe plunger keeps coming up because you didn't set the tensioner pulley first (or at all) Or at least not set correctly. It's very simple. When you tension the pulley (threaded rod makes this WAY easier) you will notice grenade pin gets loose. Regardless of how you set tension or do the job the following applies in ALL cases. After it sall set and done rotate the motor six times. This brings all the marks back in line so you can double check and also makes sure there is no slack on the idle (non adjustable) side of the belt. At this point you must ACTUALLY MEASURE the protrusion of that hydraulic tensioner. If it isn't in spec you MUST redo the tension. You do not have to remove the belt but you must fix the tension problem which will always be the pulley is too tight or too loose depending on where the protrusion measures. To reset the grenade pin without removing the hydraulic tensioner you almost have to have the threaded rod tool. If you choose to remove the tensioner to reset (assuming you have to) you may have to reset the marks also. Just make sure things are correct. Hope this helps.

you also didn't mention balance shaft. If it has no shafts disregard. Oil pump wouldn't matter either in that case.

johnboyrs said:

Pauleyman, I don't have the threaded rod. This will be the 25th attempt, cams, op and the crank are all lined up. I haven't started it since. The belt is tight all around im gonna redo it i just can't figure out why the plunger keeps coming up.

Click to expand...

well there is your problem right there, the threaded rod would help you set it up easier, I suggest you order it and save yourself more hassle.
it will make the whole job go a lot easier, you wont have to unbolt the tensioner after every failed attempt to get it lined up, I can't imagine taking a tensioner off 24 times just to vise it back down, put the grenade pin back in, re-bolt it to the block,and then line it all up again, and you say you did this 24 times?
you need this tool it would have paid for itself by now, I can't imagine 24 times. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22813&cat=0&page=1
You also should look into getting these tools [or equivalent] as well... at the least they're worth a look.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=24010&cat=0&page=1
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1

Agree with pauleyman. It kind of looks like you're not setting the tension on the tensioner pulley before you pull the pin.

I don't recall the exact torque spec off the top of my head, but the tension on the belt set by the tensioner with two holes in it can be set with a torque wrench. Then the auto tensioner pin can be released and but back in. I have done several this way and even after driving the car for a couple of weeks was able to slide the pin back into the auto tensioner. That may help you out as well.

Have you replaced your tensioner pulley with a new one? I tried re-using one once that seemed fine when I absolutely needed the car done to drive and re-did the timing multiple times and couldnt get the belt tensioned correctly until i gave up until i bought the new pulleys and that solved my problem.

19wiseman90 asked a question i'll ask again.is it the right bolt in the tensioner pulley?
This will help determine if it is
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

Is the tensioner ARM bushing in good shape, not wore out and no slop when it is on its pivot? Trying to ask ALL the questions to help out. Make sure it isn't wore out.

All 4 marks dont line up perfectly correct? Correct me if im wrong.

I find it easier to line the cam marks up level with the head. When I did this, the center lines were lined up great.

Im sure everyone has done it a bit different than the next person. Anyways, this is how I do it.'

Get your cams to line up so the center marks are lined up correctly together. There is plently of tutorials to show you how this is done if your having trouble. Once you have them lined up, ziptie the belt to the cams so you let go and continue.

I then make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC and the oil pump is lined up. With the BS delete this isnt important but its good pracice. I then wrap the belt around the oil pump, crank and then the tensioner.

I have a pair pliers that are bent into shape for the tension because I dont own the tool.

If you have the tensioner rod, Im sure it would make this alot easier. So if your having trouble, get it!

Anyways, i take the pliers and tension the roller tension-er until the grenade pin moves freely. Rotate the engine a few times and let it sit for 15min and see if the pin will slide back it. If done correctly, the pin will go back in.

Its been a while since I've gone through a manual, this is how I have always done mine and I havent ever had a problem. MY 97 is still running strong 3 years later with this method.

If im wrong in any area, call me out on it.

When I did my last timing belt job I kept getting slack at the end when double checking everything and the hydraulic tensioner being out of spec. It ended up being that I turned the tensioner pulley counter clockwise (for a 2g) but only tightened the bolt for the pulley snug. Then I measured the gap on the hydraulic tensioner and it was in spec. I would then use the torque wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt to make sure it was torqued to spec but the pulley would rotate clockwise with the bolt, thus loosening my pulley. Took me a while to figure that one out.

Not sure if this would be an issue with a 1g since the pulley gets turned clockwise, but some info that may help someone.