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2G Running Rich/No Power Any Help Is Nice

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marcus28504

Proven Member
33
0
Dec 4, 2014
Woodinville, Washington
I have an 1996 Eagle Talon Tsi

Mods are
ECM link V3
3.5in Turbo back with a high-flow cat
TD05 Big16G turbo
Manual Boost Controller
MSD Sparkplug wires
VRSF FMIC
Greddy Type S BOV
MTX wideband
AEM boost gauge
K&N Short Ram air intake
780cc injectors
Walbro 255
Bocsh High Output Alternator
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Runs beautiful but no boost, Boost Gauge shows that im getting boost and i finally feel it at 5k rpm
the car use to put me back in the seat and spin the wheels

My Wideband Shows that im running at 10.1 When i hit 3k rpm which it use to be around 12-13 ish
Fuel Pressure Is good
Spark Is Good
Wastegate is Good
Thottlebody is Good
Compression is Good
Turbo is Mint

I have tried to run several boost leak tests and I couldn't locate any boost leaks accept a very tiny one on the bov adjustment screw

This all just recently happened and there has been no change in the Car Tune at all.
I Can hear a slight howling when i drive also seems to be rpm based where its more prominent under 4k rpm
seems to be located under the throttle body Throttle body is rebuilt and has no leaks Biss Is Set
vacuum at idle is 18-22 Idle is set at 900

Any Ideas?
 
Maybe your exhaust leak got bigger if its before the turbo I would definately fix that first.always fix the obvious first.
 
The Exhaust leak is smaller, But My Car also through an EGR code during the datalog, could an egr valve cause a no boost scenario
 
I have an 1996 Eagle Talon Tsi

Mods are
ECM link V3
3.5in Turbo back with a high-flow cat
TD05 Big16G turbo
Manual Boost Controller
MSD Sparkplug wires
VRSF FMIC
Greddy Type S BOV
MTX wideband
AEM boost gauge
K&N Short Ram air intake
780cc injectors
Walbro 255
Bocsh High Output Alternator
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Runs beautiful but no boost, Boost Gauge shows that im getting boost and i finally feel it at 5k rpm
the car use to put me back in the seat and spin the wheels

My Wideband Shows that im running at 10.1 When i hit 3k rpm which it use to be around 12-13 ish
Fuel Pressure Is good
Spark Is Good
Wastegate is Good
Thottlebody is Good
Compression is Good
Turbo is Mint

I have tried to run several boost leak tests and I couldn't locate any boost leaks accept a very tiny one on the bov adjustment screw

This all just recently happened and there has been no change in the Car Tune at all.
I Can hear a slight howling when i drive also seems to be rpm based where its more prominent under 4k rpm
seems to be located under the throttle body Throttle body is rebuilt and has no leaks Biss Is Set
vacuum at idle is 18-22 Idle is set at 900

Any Ideas?

Did you check the wastegate maybe?
 
if you are getting the psi that u usually get on the guage and you are running rich. Maybe your tune or ecmlink messed up. If you are getting to much fuel and you have a stock fuel pressure reg it could of went bad and you are just pushing more fuel. A easy way to check is take the vacuum hose off it plug the hose and take it for a run and if it feels like it did before then something is wrong there and i recommend a after market fuel pressure reg because stock with a 255 can go bad.

If its not that it is possible you are losing boost in the head. head gasket and multiple other things could of gone wrong. but again this is only true if you hit the gas and if you are boosting if you are getting 15lbs like your were before and set for that then its a real good chance of these 2 problems

If you are not getting any boost leaks from the pressure test and your psi is what it was before but it is not going like it did before its a after the intake problem. I would hope of course you have your boost gauge plugged in somewhere in the lines on the intake.
 
Okay I think I found the problem, I tightened up the BOV Adjustment screw a couple of a turns and Im getting some boost now, but the car almost stalls when I let off the gas ( 200-300) rpm

So Its either a vacuum leak or a bad BOV ?

if you are getting the psi that u usually get on the guage and you are running rich. Maybe your tune or ecmlink messed up. If you are getting to much fuel and you have a stock fuel pressure reg it could of went bad and you are just pushing more fuel. A easy way to check is take the vacuum hose off it plug the hose and take it for a run and if it feels like it did before then something is wrong there and i recommend a after market fuel pressure reg because stock with a 255 can go bad.

If its not that it is possible you are losing boost in the head. head gasket and multiple other things could of gone wrong. but again this is only true if you hit the gas and if you are boosting if you are getting 15lbs like your were before and set for that then its a real good chance of these 2 problems

If you are not getting any boost leaks from the pressure test and your psi is what it was before but it is not going like it did before its a after the intake problem. I would hope of course you have your boost gauge plugged in somewhere in the lines on the intake.

My fuel system is not stock

Check your O2 sensors and check for exhaust leaks.
02 sensors are new oem Sensors
 
That's odd you didn't determine your BOV leaking during the boost leak test. Is the BOV recirculating into the intake or venting to atmosphere? What's the wideband doing when it tries to stall? Also might need a BISS screw adjustment.
 
if you bov was bad then you did a shit boost leak test man. testing by putting a tester on the front of the turbo and pump it up 4 psi more then you are running not pump it up to 4 or 5 psi..
 
I did multiple boost leak tests that way and I mentioned very early on that I noticed the bov leaking.

That's odd you didn't determine your BOV leaking during the boost leak test. Is the BOV recirculating into the intake or venting to atmosphere? What's the wideband doing when it tries to stall? Also might need a BISS screw adjustment.
its recirculated. My Wideband Goes full rich under boost then goes into 24 vacuum when I coast
 
you say you have Link V3? have you logged the car while it is presenting the problem? if so look at your airflow.
I had a similar problem with a car. turned out the MAF was going bad. replaced the maf and the car was fixed.
that is what link is for. its a great way to detect and diagnose issues.
 
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
No
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
Yes

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
Yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: Magnacore/1 year
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK-BPR7ES/.021 to prevent spark blowout


5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Yes
Throttle Cable: Yes
TPS: Yes
BISS: Yes

7). Compression ratio
8.5:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12.4 volts
Car running: 13.9 volts

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.7
Injector Size (cc/min): 850

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: LC1
Calibration Date: Sep2014

13). Type of fuel
Type: 93 Octane
Percent of Ethanol: 8%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes

Here's the template. You already took care of most of these it seems but its always helpful to fill it out. :) At least fill out all what you know FOR SURE.
 
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Small Exhaust Leak
Boost leak tested
Yes

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
Yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: Taylor Wires 8mm Less Than A week old
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK-BR8ES/.027


5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 152
Cylinder 3: 149
Cylinder 4: 151

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Yes
Throttle Cable: Yes
TPS: Yes
BISS: Yes

7). Compression ratio
8.5:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
Evap Solenoid And EGR malfunction

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12.4 volts
Car running: 13.9 volts

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.7
Injector Size (cc/min): 880

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: LC1
Calibration Date: unknown

13). Type of fuel
Type: 93 Octane
Percent of Ethanol: 8%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes



I figured out why i was running rich (Bad Spark Plug Wire), Now to Fix The bov/ boost leak and see if everything comes back
 
If you need a new diaphragm, go around motox shops and ask for a rear inner tube that they're throwing away or don't need, just make sure it's in good condition. Make a diaphragm out of that if you need to, it works great, just ask Justin :) Just cut it to spec its not very hard, mine works great. Or if you have a spare piece of thin silicone laying around that is big enough, that works even better.
 
the Adjustment screw was all the way out
If you need a new diaphragm, go around motox shops and ask for a rear inner tube that they're throwing away or don't need, just make sure it's in good condition. Make a diaphragm out of that if you need to, it works great, just ask Justin :) Just cut it to spec its not very hard, mine works great. Or if you have a spare piece of thin silicone laying around that is big enough, that works even better.
t
 
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