I know there are MANY clutch failure threads and I don't know if the same issue is out there, but I'm sure it is, but after several looks, I'm finding mostly the same issue not related to mine. Anyway, as you can see...

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I have a major gap between the slave cylinder rod and the clutch fork. This past Saturday, I replaced my slipping clutch disc. Everything went back together and my car drove perfectly. No issues. Sunday, I let my fiance take my car as her car needed a new tire. I later had to move it and it had no clutch pressure. I assumed this was a fluid bleeding issue and have bled the system many times since Sunday only to get nowhere. The pedal builds pressure when pumped, but after letting the pedal go for a moment, it losses pressure again. I now see that it wasn't a bleeding issue and it's this gap. What is the most likely cause? My guess is that the TOB could have gone out, or maybe the pressure plate fingers. I can get my car to start, and I have gotten it to shift into 1st and reverse when I moved it with the soft pedal, so I know that everything engages and works, so I'm confused and want to know what I can do to find out before I tear things apart yet again.

Get under there and take a picture of the clutch fork position in the bellhousing window. If it's in the middle, I'd put it on a bad master cylinder.

For the major gap: Do you have a non-oem flywheel, disk, PP, or T.O. bearing that has incorrect thickness dimensions or they are mismatched? Or was flywheel resurfaced too many times or clutch fork worn down too much where pivot ball sits in it?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/extended-slave-cylinder-rod-question.443848/#post-153059797.

However pedal losing pressure when letting it go has to be some leak in the master/slave or air in line. Did you purge the slave cylinder of any air bubbles? See steps 11-15 here: http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_properly_bleed_a_hydraulic_clutch_info.html

I have a Fidanza flywheel with removable friction surface, exedy oem spec pressure plate and clutch disc. However, the T.O. bearing is a retrofit one that I know needs to be replaced as it doesn't spin smoothly when rotated. However I'm unable to get a replacement. The previous owner had transmission work done and this is probably when it happened. I can't put an oem T.O. bearing because during that, a sleeve was installed onto the input shaft for unknown reasons and I can't remove it. This is also the wrong transmission for my car. It's a F5M31 trans from the spyder gs when I own a gst and should have F5M33. When I replaced my clutch disc this past weekend, it was the only part that was replaced and nothing else aside from the pressure plate was removed/unbolted.

Just put a couple washers on the pivot bal inside the tranny. For a quick fix ur flywheel is most likely out if spec.

I'd start by looking at the master cylinder they normally start to leak and can be seen/or felt up under the dash.

Sounds like a bad slave cylinder to me. I wonder if the gst and gs have different ones.

Slave cylinder was replaced 2 weeks ago and is good. GS and GST Spyder's probably use the same as all turbo hard top models. Non-turbo coupes have a different one.

I'm thinking that the slave cylinders might be different. I'd go to an Advance Auto or something and take a look at both the N/A GS slave and the one from a GST. If they are, you saved yourself the headache of removing the Trans, just a thought.

Teezy said:

I'm thinking that the slave cylinders might be different. I'd go to an Advance Auto or something and take a look at both the N/A GS slave and the one from a GST. If they are, you saved yourself the headache of removing the Trans, just a thought.

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That's actually a good idea even though I think I know I got the right one. I'll do that after work.