Got this mhi big 16g. It's has no shaft play and appears overall in good condition. I just saw that the compressor wheel bolt seems to be rusty a as well as the feed lines and the hole for the feed lines. I want to just bolt it on but want to make sure it's in good condition

should be fine. you could port/ polish the hot side which will take care of the rust there. as long as there is no shaft play and spins freely with no restrictions ill work

Run that bad boy. You can dremel off some of the rust with a wire wheel attachment, but I wouldn't take off the rusted shaft nut. You might end up damaging the shaft and then would need to buy a new one and a rebuilt kit.

Don't mess with the compressor nut If u dont know what you are doing. I don't know there is a certain feel to these turbos that you cant get from instructions on the internet. Its easy to twist/bend a tdo5h turbine shaft. you cant replace experience. Also, some I'm not sure about big16g, but some older tdo5h turbid are left hand.

speaking of instructions on the net, maybe I'm feeling a bit nostolgic with the holidays, but isn't it amazing how easy it has become to make power with the modern ecus and injectors. Not to mention actually having useful data logging. Relatively speaking I mean. I remember my first serious project. I had a 92 tsiawd that I was following buschurs stages and that car was simple and ran pretty well even when I went to a buschur "race turbo" 20g. But my first serious project I started building alongside it was an rx7 with a turbonetics t66 on a haltech e6k. I use to go to the dyno and make like 240hp on my first pull, and of course be disappointed. But after tweaking and pulls all day id some how end up leaving with like 175hp and just devastated. It was always such a struggle. Of course now days, you could take one look at an old t66 compressor wheel without even seeing a map and say that it was horrible to use when you wanted big flow in the 12-15psi range. But I had no clue. In fact it was recommended to me by a guy who worked on Indy stuff. And was the go to guy for turbo work in my city. Not to mention you had to rent a dyno to get wideband dayalogging back then. Unless you were smart enough to know a $1000 wideband was still a good investment.

I plan to throw it on tomorrow, the stock side mount will provide enough cooking for it correct? Only doing 12-14 psi

^ That turbo was originally built by upgrading a 14B. It has a 52mm turbine housing inlet, so it's definitely a 6cm2 turbine housing. I can also tell by the 11mm flat-faced compressor locknut and the absence of lower coolant ports with expansion plugs on the bearing housing that it definitely began life as a 14B.

The turbine housing is far too small for a 16G to perform to it's potential, so if you're planning to run boost in excess of 18psi or so you should look into getting a 7cm2 turbine housing to slow spool and improve turbine flow a bit. Failure to do so may cause incurable surge issues at the onset of boost or at full load which can effect the turbo's reliability.

This is why I constantly stress that 14B's make poor upgrade donors because of the amount of parts that require replacement if you truly want the performance potential of the turbo you're intending to build.

I threw it on, it has surge and overheats. I forgot to bleed the system but other than that everything else is hooked
Up right. Will forgetting to bleed the system make it over heat like that