The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

such DSM FAIL much advice needed

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

vl4bad

10+ Year Contributor
130
3
Apr 21, 2012
North NJ, New_Jersey
Hello! here is what I'm dealing with all help is Greatly Appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!
My DSM went into a General Shop put my 2g together. (Already made a mistake there) I bought a 2.3l shortblock (ross,eagle,oem crank, copper o-ringed, etc.) since my 2.0l was low on health. The head received new valve guides and either Intake OR exhaust valves (cant remember ATM). Installed them, along with new injectors 1000cc Precision, also had to get a new harness which was a custom harness a member on here made to spec for me (Fuse box relocation to Glove box). they installed everything along with a list of other new parts I bought. Long story short they could'nt get the car started and stated it was because im running a AEM ems 1 and it needed to be tuned for the new injectors etc. A tuner came by and set up the AEM with the new injectors and etc. STILL the car wouldnt start. After taking the car back and waiting about 1 year because of work and no time, that shop is no longer existing. Their shop is gone, So the options I'm left with are
A: Unbuild everything and part it all, take the loss.
B: Unbuild everything and rebuild it to rule out anything they could've messed up on and then take it to a reputable tuner.
C: Sell the whole damn thing
D: Send the car out to a dsm/evo shop and get raped for all my hard earned money.

I've wrenched alot before but never built a piston motor before. I built my Rx7 motor recently so I know a bit more than the average mechanic. I don't know what to do. maybe it has to do with wiring, or how they tq'd the head and block together, or IDK I love this car and really need to get it running considering I have had it sitting in my driveway being eaten by the elements.

THE CARS SYMPTOMS WHEN TRYING TO START: fuel pump turns on, key to on and the engine sounds like it is stuck at first the starter would click a billion times but figured they grounded the wrong spot fixed that and it cranks for 1/2 a second and stops... Also something with my MPI relay is where it has a ground wire bare connected to it and when it is grounded the fuel pump will be constantly on, if no ground for that the fuel pump wont turn on was told that it needs to be tuned where the aem program has basically a switch to fix that so it just needed to be grounded once and flip the switch a one time thing..its a mess i know but someone please just guide me the correct way. idk whether to pull the harness out and put an oem harness, maybe its mechanical IDK. this sucks balls. ok next is the parts list:


SPECS:
2.3l shortblock Ross pistons, eagle rods, acl race bearings, oem 100mm crank, copper oringed
7bolt head HKS 264/272, bc valve springs/retainers, not sure which company valve guides) not ported (YET)
fidanza cam gears, not sure some oem company timing belt not mitsu, ATI harmonic damper, new timing kit not sure if mitsu or generic.
Custom GT30R turbo, Tial 38mm, DNP Exhaust manifold, Open o2, Apexi N1 Full exhaust, FMIC, Greddy type RS, 1G Intake Manifold, AEM EMS 1, Custom engine Harness, AEM AF/R, autometer Boost, Pyro, Greddy Boost controller profec B, ACT Clutch 6puck sprung (not sure which weight), Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel, 5spd trans, viscous lsd, Tein Coilovers, drilled/slotted Brakes
 
If the starter is only turning for a half a second pull the starter and bench test it make sure that is not the issue first off.
 
I've checked that and has been ruled out, its also a new starter. thanks for the reply
 
Where to start??? Try this, bypass your ignition by putting + on your starter to make it turn the motor over. See if you have spark, see if your fuel injectors are clicking. Also you can check your compression at this time.
That should be a good start.
 
timing marks are all lined up except one is over by like a half cm...

i will start to diagnose this whole thing again once i move sometime this month, ill have a nice garage to start losing hours of my life in. but keep the advice coming because i need to have as much as possible...i will start by checking for air, and spark, i know fuel is there for sure LOL.
 
Make sure your #1 piston is at TDC when you check timing marks. Which timing mark is out?
 
Good luck, you are in good hands on here, everybody is always helpful I am sure you will get it running.
But make sure like stated previously that your timing marks line up and set your base timing in the center, after that get the motor turning with the starter and if you have compression, spark and fuel it should start. Boost leak test is always recommended also. Just go with the basics for now and make sure your firing order is set right that could also be a problem.
 
the fact that everything was re-wired makes me think it could be electrical. check for spark and fuel, do you know how to do that?. if you are not getting one if the 2 we can stem from there to sensor wiring and ecu config. do you have a multimeter that can read ohms? Your other option is to ship the car to my garage, and then you can fly over here and drive it home. LOL
 
Sounds like it could be a voltage drop to you starter. Get a volt meter and make sure your getting correct voltage to starter. Might be something grounding out from the fuse box being relocated. double check you voltage to all your major components. IF I was in your shoes id be looking for a electrical problem.[DOUBLEPOST=1415233697][/DOUBLEPOST]Spark and fuel isn't a problem right now, the car wont turn over. Get the car to turn over and go from there.
 
With a custom harness and other people screwing with the harness it will be difficult to pin point the problem. I would switch over to stock harness and see if the problem gets fixed. Need to get it to crank first could be wiring. Run a ground wire from battery to starter bolt to get a good ground
 
Good luck, you are in good hands on here, everybody is always helpful I am sure you will get it running.
But make sure like stated previously that your timing marks line up and set your base timing in the center, after that get the motor turning with the starter and if you have compression, spark and fuel it should start. Boost leak test is always recommended also. Just go with the basics for now and make sure your firing order is set right that could also be a problem.

Yes thanks!! Im going to check the timing and test for fuel and spark.

the fact that everything was re-wired makes me think it could be electrical. check for spark and fuel, do you know how to do that?. if you are not getting one if the 2 we can stem from there to sensor wiring and ecu config. do you have a multimeter that can read ohms? Your other option is to ship the car to my garage, and then you can fly over here and drive it home. LOL

I'll test for fuel and spark. once those tests are done, i will most likely swap the harness over to OEM since i have an AUTO 95-96 harness unmolested laying around, also will be swapping the dash harness since it was hacked with an aftermarket Python Alarm system (which i have bypassed COMPLETELY so that is 100% ruled out)...Washington is only a few hours away haha

With a custom harness and other people screwing with the harness it will be difficult to pin point the problem. I would switch over to stock harness and see if the problem gets fixed. Need to get it to crank first could be wiring. Run a ground wire from battery to starter bolt to get a good ground

You're 100% correct! the harness will be swapped with a 95-96 unmolested harness I have. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the only difference between the AUTO harness and Manual wire harness is the extra ecu connectors if I'm remembering correct. IF this solves it I will end up removing this harness after and just stripping it the weight of unnecessary connections that are useless since i dont have A/C and plan to delete my power steering since POWER STEERING IS FOR PUSSIES. LOL JK!!!!ROFL



What I'm going to do as soon as i move and get the car inside the garage:


Test for Spark & Fuel.
Check All grounds.
Swap Engine Harness & Dashboard Harness
Test for Spark & Fuel.
Test Compression.
 
when i last was out in my driveway diagnosing it, i would try to turn the crank with the wrench but it would get stuck, no starter in there either, supposedly i asked a mechanic around locally and he said it was because of compression but my spark plugs were out, and even if they were in it still should've been able to turn freely, i literally had all my body weight on it and it would'nt turn after half turn.....this makes me want to just rebuild it all. what would cause that to not turn freely?
 
Symptoms point to voltage loss to the starter. Typically from poor grounding. You should get a remote start and connect it to the small trigger wire on the starter and see if it will turn over correctly like that. If it does then you have (1) Poor grounding, (2) bad starter relay, (3) defective starter (4) wiring issue. I would bypass the ignition system before changing out the whole harness. It is very easy to do. Especially vs replacing the harness.
If it works with a remote starter then you should verify if it's voltage drop or not. Do so by attaching a volt meter to the trigger wire and checking if it drops when turning key to start.
 
If you cannot turn the motor over by hand then that's a huge issue! I would handle that first and foremost. Seems like maybe your stroker is having interference on the bottom end
 
If you can't turn it by hand with the plugs out you need to pull the oil pan and see what is binding. Don't think or focus on anything else to you do that. Starter, wiring, ect. blah blah. If it can't be turned by hand there is an issue. Stroker hitting the side of the block, mechanical timing off and valves hitting pistons, poor build specs IE head cut too short and cam lift to much causing valves to hit, etc.
 
when i last was out in my driveway diagnosing it, i would try to turn the crank with the wrench but it would get stuck, no starter in there either

That is your main problem, forget the harness for now. If its not turning freely without plugs in there then something is way off. Could be mains, rod bearings are not correct clearnce. I would pull off your accessory belts and then try turning the crank be hand. Ive had a problem where the a/c locks up and cause a no crank condtion.
 
Im sorry im going to be that guy but if I was you and this was my car. I would pull the head then try to turn it over by hand. if it still gets stuck you can rule out anything with the head. if so then problem is in the bottom end. pull the pan and see if its hitting anywhere, If its not im sorry but you have too much money in it to trust someone else's work. tare down the motor and everybody on here will help you get it back together correctly. I hate to see someone get screwed by a careless shop.
 
^+1 what he said, if you got full rotations on it you probably bent valves if timing is the issue. Hopefully its the stroker crank interfering. Good luck
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top