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ECUflash EcuFlash Tunning Map Suggestions

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phizzalot

15+ Year Contributor
167
15
Feb 10, 2006
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Hello All,

I have a few questions about tuning as I've decided to tackle this issue like everything else on this car. :)

First off its a mix of Mitsu parts but its all working together nicely. I have ceddy mods flashed to a 99 ecu and wired up to my 1997 AWD Dohc 16G Turbo Galant. I managed to tackle all of the emission problems and do not have any cell lights at idle...

So iam seeing up to 4 counts of knock as the engine starts to build boost.
1. I believe I should richen the afr in the map to decrease knock. from about 10.2 to 10.5 at around "3600rpm/210load" Is that a good idea?
2. Should I adjust timing at all? What happens in the log that tells me to increase or decrease timing?

My High Octane Ecu Map.
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And here is a sample of the last log I took running this map. I let off at 4100rpm because I have cell on knock active and was worried of problems. I also noticed the tps isn't reading 100 which will need to be fixed later as well.
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Again, Iam new at this so the more help the better.
 
Just giving some basics.
AFR ratio is Air to Fuel, for example;
Parts air : Parts fuel.
"Rich" is a low number, 10.0:1, meaning 10 parts of air to 1 part fuel. (less air for the same amount of fuel)
"Lean" is a high number, 16.0:1, meaning 16 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. (more air for the same amount of fuel)

14.7 : 1 is stoich and is targeted for cruise / idle for emissions purposes.
11.0 : 1 is a safe WOT ratio for most people on pump gas for a street car.

DO NOT change the fuel maps unless you have a wideband to monitor your changes.

Sorry if you already knew all that, but some people don't.

Knock is a complex thing, and many things can contribute to it. Normally, when the ECU sees knock, it RETARDS or decreases the timing. There can also be knock from too rich of an AFR, but I don't think that is your issue.

The most common way to tune out knock, is to locate the timing value that is at the Load and RPM that knock occurs, and pull a degree or two from that cell. Look at the other cells surrounding the one you changed. You want your timing curve to be smooth and no sudden jumps. Adjust those as well if they need it to make it smooth. Flash the new ROM, and datalog again. Repeat as necessary until the knock is gone.

Increasing timing should be done when there is ZERO knock in your logs. Over advanced timing will hurt the engine. On pump gas, the car usually knocks before over advancement occurs, but on E85 that is not the case.

Increasing the timing is done in increments, usually 2-3 degrees at a time in select cells until knock occurs. Once knock occurs (usually in the cells you changed), pull a degree or two until its gone just as before. Again, you want the timing table to be smooth with no sudden jumps. There is TONS of information about stuff like this online. Be sure to search and feel comfortable with the changes your are doing.
 
I would fix your tps issues first, as when that's fixed, all your data will be off again.
If you are configuring wot at 94% when you actually fix that and hit 100% your gains will way off or even lower then at 94% causing more issues.
 
Thanks for the help, And I do have a wide band but wasn't clear about which way was rich/lean.

Thanks as well about the WOT issue. To fix the problem is it as simple as adjusting the throttle body cable?
Off the top of my head I would test this by running evoscan and flooring the pedal while adjusting the throttle cable until I reach 100% in the logs.
 
The TPS % in evoscan is usually incorrect, and needs to be set up to your car to be perfect

Follow the instructions in the thread below.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-calibrate-evoscan-to-read-tps.428342/

The main concern is making sure the throttle plate is 100% open. Have a friend sit in the car (with it off) and press the gas pedal to the floor. While they hold the petal, try to twist the throttle more by hand in the engine bay. If it moves open more, then you need to adjust your throttle cable to take up the slack, and open the TB 100%. Do this process first before you set up evoscan, otherwise the calibration will be wrong again after adjusting the throttle cable.
 
Go through the base idle set procedure found in the VFAQ... http://vfaq.com/FAQlocator-intake.html I don't know which throttle body you are using, but the base idle set will get your TPS dialed in properly for the idle speed switch (1g is separate from the TPS, 2g is integrated). By doing the base idle set, your throttle cable will be adjusted properly, your idle switch will be set correctly and your biss will be where it needs to be. If you screw up any of these steps and continue, you'll have to start back at the beginning.

Cliff notes:
Clean the throttle body bore and plate
Loosen the throttle cable
Adjust the TPS with feeler gauges and a voltage meter
Set the throttle cable tension
Adjust the biss
Double check TPS/Idle switch voltage with feelers
Check EvoScan
Adjust the formula calculating TPS %


I know that sounds like a lot more work than just setting the TPS, but every step in the idle setting procedures can change the voltage output of the TPS. If the cable is too tight, your TPS/Throttle Stop Switch can be rendered inoperable (bad).

Once you've dialed in the TPS this way, you can go back and check the % swing in EvoScan with the engine off. Bring the car up to operating temperature and check it again.

It is not uncommon to not read perfectly from 0-100%. Most don't read the full swing. Mine read 7% while closed, but the voltage at the TPS was perfectly within factory spec. If you are holding the pedal to the floor and not seeing 100%, you can adjust the scaling formula.

Trust the voltage, not the percentage formulated from the voltage. If voltage is correct, the formula is likely wrong.
 
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