Should work just fine as long as it doesnt leak. Do not put anything on the -an thread parts. They are made to seal by themselves.

I realize the AN seals, what about the parts that screw into the flange on the oil pan and turbo?

Guess I wont know if it leaks til it runs .

Mine was also excessively long and its still a bit too long. Any one know of the perfect kit to buy for length and sealability?

Since it's not pressurized, you'll be fine as long as it doesn't leak. You're much better off with the short, straighter drain than that long, curvy setup.

wolf alchemy said:

Mine was also excessively long and its still a bit too long. Any one know of the perfect kit to buy for length and sealability?

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You could just buy the fittings and hose and make your own.

yeah i have the 10 -an braided hose, will get some fittings for it in the future but for now I'm trying to get it running again and if I have to keep messing with the same little crap over and over it wont get done. So I'll move on for now and see how this does, maybe add another better quality hose clamp on the bottom.

No engine bay comments ?

Did you just clamp the 10an hose over the smaller crimp fittings? If so I'd be worried about the minimum ID being too small. The ID at those crimp fittings are going to bottleneck the whole line. Possibly bad enough to make the turbo smoke.

Assuming those flanges are your typical 3/4" Npt ebay flanges, you could replace those male AN fittings entirely with hose barb fittings like these....

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That will let you clamp on 3/4" ID (or -12an) hose. The silver fitting in that pic can be found at Oreilly's for just a few bucks. Also, yes you should be using teflon tape on the NPT threads (at the flange).

Engine bay looks great BTW, you must have gone through a lot of work to fill in all the unused holes.

Well the original line is supposed the be a turbo drain line, so the ID is no different, but yes that is what I did.

Great yes that is what the ends look like, I'll pick some up locally and fix this now. Kinda a wasted $20 on the oil drain line, oh well... I kept thinking I should use tef tape but wasn't sure, was not sure if the whole thing would be ok that's why I'm here . This is my first turbo and first project of this scale, I built a nice '79 camaro bay but thats like 1/20 of the crap on this engine

Yea, all the gaps, extra holes and spot welds, it was crazy, I had my friend (the owner) do most of the sanding.
Turned out pretty good I think though for first time doing something like this.

nelliott500 said:

Since it's not pressurized, you'll be fine as long as it doesn't leak. You're much better off with the short, straighter drain than that long, curvy setup.



You could just buy the fittings and hose and make your own.

Click to expand...

I did. I bought the pipe, and the things to hook onto turbo and oil pan for the -10 an things. Here's a pic.[DOUBLEPOST=1414570939][/DOUBLEPOST]Lol. Forgot to add it is shorter than that. Not by much though.

The yellow mark circled part should not have this big gap if you installed hose well.

you should have the 45 at the oil pan

looks like it actually has to flow up hill, are you running like this with no problems?

The inside diameter is what is important. It doesnt matter what the hose looks like on the outside. If you drainline is not large and free flowing enough to drain the oil quick enough, then the oil will backup in the cartridge and be forced out the seals.

ofc the ID is what matters. So you are saying that original drain line I got is too small? wth is it for then

Ill get the 10 -an fittings this fri

Did you have to run a restrictor?

yeah but that is on the oil feed line, 1.5mm for the stock t25 journal bearings

the drain line should flow as freely as possible

darknezz7 said:

ofc the ID is what matters. So you are saying that original drain line I got is too small? wth is it for then

Ill get the 10 -an fittings this fri

Click to expand...

Fuel lines, power steering lines, coolant lines etc.

Wolf Alchemy, you will kill your turbo with the drain like that. Though the bearings are fed under pressure, the drain is essentially a gravity drain. If it has to flow up-hill, you will have a flow problem and either lose your seals in the turbo OR coke the oil and wipe out the bearings. Shorten the line so it flows without ever being up-hill or level. Look at a stock drain and you will see.

i used a L shape rubber hose with worm clamps with brass fittings. you can go that route