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(Video)engine knock or lifter sound

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Agll30

Agll30

Proven Member
125
4
Aug 25, 2014
Beaverton, Oregon
Hi, I have 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST with 128k miles with new timing belt job and water pump. I changed the oil yesterday in the morning and then later took it out for a spin, when all of a sudden the car died and I tried to start it but it wouldn't start. It cranked over but didn't start until the 4th try. When i started the car, i heard this weird tapping sound like if it was a noisy lifter. But it sounds more like a rod knock or something banging in cylinder 3. I tried revving it a little and the knocking sound got louder and quicker, so I quickly turned it off and got it towed home, because i was afraid to damage it further. I plugged in my ob2 scanner and the code P1105 popped up, which means the fuel pressure solenoid is malfunctioning. The car was dying before and started back up before i changed the oil. I was reading online since my blitz bov is venting, that it could be the reason it's dying and running rich. I'm still waiting on the 1g bov i bought off the forums, and I'm going to recirculate it. I used Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic oil extended performance and made sure the oil was at level. I plan to do a compression test today after it stops raining. What do you guys think? I have added a video with the same noise i have.
 
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DsmMickey said:
3G revised lifers sound good, that what most DsmER used.:D
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I want to get this, but I was reading some people are having problems with it lately. I was reading on dsm talk, that a member installed this 3G lifters and one of them came apart and ruined his fresh new motor. What are the chances of this happening?[DOUBLEPOST=1411515473][/DOUBLEPOST]Also I forgot to mention I replaced the 5w30 oil with Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic and also used Lucas oil stabilizer. They seemed to quiet down a little bit. I replaced it before parking in my garage.. I haven't even drove 10ft after oil change using 10w30 and Mobil 1 oil filter. Do I just need to drive it until it quiets down, because it seemed to quiet down a little bit at idle.
 
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hmm sounds like slapping to me maybe piston making contact with valves and or piston slap..??
 
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keep us posted as to the results. I had a spun rod bearing and it did not sound this bad....
 
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Slo2gn said:
keep us posted as to the results. I had a spun rod bearing and it did not sound this bad....
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Oh really? Was the sound coming from your bottom end or top end?
pksystems said:
I have a YouTube video in my profile from the PO of my car. Sounds very similar. It was a spun bearing in that engine.
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It does sound similar, but you said in your description on youtube that you eliminated your balance shafts. I still have mine. I will be replacing these lifters with the 3g revised ones i got from Extreme Psi. It should be here by friday i believe so.[DOUBLEPOST=1411563670][/DOUBLEPOST]With the new 3g revised lifters, should i bleed them using oil or let them soak in diesel fluid overnight? What do y'all think?
 
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I heard the sound and felt the vibration from the cabin more than i felt it the #1 rod that spun the bearing chewed up the rod so bad i needed a new rod and Bearings and the inside of the crank they had to clean inside the journal holes because there was alot of trash needless to say it was spun Bad! Mine was not quite this loud. So I am not saying it is not a spun bearing you cant rule that out..
 
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Slo2gn said:
I heard the sound and felt the vibration from the cabin more than i felt it the #1 rod that spun the bearing chewed up the rod so bad i needed a new rod and Bearings and the inside of the crank they had to clean inside the journal holes because there was alot of trash needless to say it was spun Bad! Mine was not quite this loud. So I am not saying it is not a spun bearing you cant rule that out..
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Was the viberation at certain rpm or did the rpm not have an effect on it? Hmmm, it could very well be a spun bearing. I hope it's not, but I gotta expect the worst. If the 3G revised lifters don't seem quiet the noise down, I will take it to a shop. Should I take it to any shop or one that specializes in dsm? English racing is the closes shop I could find..

pksystems said:
That's a PO's video. Before a repair shop figured out what was wrong. The balance shaft removal was done wrong and starved the engine of oil.
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Ahh I see. How fast were you losing oil? Could you see the leak visually?
 
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dude, i'm sorry to come off "so convinced of myself". but you spun a rod. your thinking-"oh yeah were are the metal flakes then?" they are lodged inside your pan and haven't ran out yet. But for the sake of theorizing if im wrong, then it sounds like a collapsed wrist pin, very very similar sounds.
I don't have a shed full of motors for nothing!

Stop buying parts "you dont need", pull the engine and prove yourself wrong. good luck man its a learning experience.[DOUBLEPOST=1411601007][/DOUBLEPOST]also, if not either, then a spun "balance shaft" ask Cherryman he has a video sounded the same and it was that.
 
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miliman13 said:
dude, i'm sorry to come off "so convinced of myself". but you spun a rod. your thinking-"oh yeah were are the metal flakes then?" they are lodged inside your pan and haven't ran out yet. But for the sake of theorizing if im wrong, then it sounds like a collapsed wrist pin, very very similar sounds.
I don't have a shed full of motors for nothing!

Stop buying parts "you dont need", pull the engine and prove yourself wrong. good luck man its a learning experience.[DOUBLEPOST=1411601007][/DOUBLEPOST]also, if not either, then a spun "balance shaft" ask Cherryman he has a video sounded the same and it was that.
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I know it could be a rod but I hope not, I need the car for school and work. I'll try pulling the pan sometime this weekend. Thanks for the heads up!!
pksystems said:
That video was 5+ years before I bought the car. I don't think it lost any oil. It just wasn't getting enough in some areas and the bearings spun.
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Oh okay gotcha.
 
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Alright I so I took of my old lifters out and they turn out to be 1g lifters I think. Why would someone put 1g lifters in a 2g makes no sense. I'm going to be installing my 3G revised ones tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it goes..
 

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That is very loud for lifter tick, I ont think that's what it is.

As for why 1G lifters? Many many people theorize that they are better than 2G lifters. Unless you've been working on the engines a
Lot, not the average person can grab a lifter and say oh that's a 1G lifter. Usually side by side comparison is needed or if you know for sure.

Me personally would've ben taken the oil pan off and look at the internals from underneath the car. Also take a look in the pan. It is very easy and not time consuming at all. I would definitely consider this if I were you.

And the whole 3G lifters better then this lifter is said because of certain use. Like street cars or street/track cars should use IMO a 3mm lifter and drag cars a 1G lifter to keep pressure in check unless you have a kiggly HLA then you have nothing to really worry about. But this is just my opinion and personal experience with my own cars, so still do research others personal experiences.

Good luck with your journey, God bless

Anthony B.
 
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I've had collapsed lifters sound just like that. But I would still pull the pan regardless. After reading your post again, the symptoms of having the car shut off and hard to start do point to signs on bearing failure. I was under the assumption you changed the oil and started hearing this noise. I still would check everything. I've had loose flywheel bolt sound like strait up rod knock before also. If you said you drained the oil and you didn't see any flakes or bearing material at all, its going to surprise me if you have a spun bearing. You will definitely see some kind of material with it beating like that. That is no early spun bearing. That's a bearing that is completely gone if that's what it is. You would see all kind of material. Did any lifters collapse by hand?
 
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SickPerformance said:
I've had collapsed lifters sound just like that. But I would still pull the pan regardless. After reading your post again, the symptoms of having the car shut off and hard to start do point to signs on bearing failure. I was under the assumption you changed the oil and started hearing this noise. I still would check everything. I've had loose flywheel bolt sound like strait up rod knock before also. If you said you drained the oil and you didn't see any flakes or bearing material at all, its going to surprise me if you have a spun bearing. You will definitely see some kind of material with it beating like that. That is no early spun bearing. That's a bearing that is completely gone if that's what it is. You would see all kind of material. Did any lifters collapse by hand?
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I couldn't find collapsed lifters so I decided to go with 3G lifters since they are easier to clean and new why not. I had the transmission replaced a couple weeks ago. Maybe they didn't tighten the bolt to spec. How would I know if it's a flywheel bolt? I'm having a hard time installing the rockers on the exhaust side. Is there another way to install these bad boys?
 
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Sounds like a wrist pin failing to me...time to look for a beater.
 
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Agll30 said:
I couldn't find collapsed lifters so I decided to go with 3G lifters since they are easier to clean and new why not. I had the transmission replaced a couple weeks ago. Maybe they didn't tighten the bolt to spec. How would I know if it's a flywheel bolt? I'm having a hard time installing the rockers on the exhaust side. Is there another way to install these bad boys?
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The easiest way to replace the lifters is to remove the cam. Other than that you are stuck with prying the rockers out and back in. As for the transmission replacement. Is the car a manual transmission or auto?
 
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bryanwheat said:
The easiest way to replace the lifters is to remove the cam. Other than that you are stuck with prying the rockers out and back in. As for the transmission replacement. Is the car a manual transmission or auto?
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I meant without removing the cam. I guess I may have to buy the mitsubishi tool. Either that or keep prying the rocker up. It's a manual transmission.
 
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Agll30 said:
I meant without removing the cam. I guess I may have to buy the mitsubishi tool. Either that or keep prying the rocker up. It's a manual transmission.
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Which tool are you talking about? Using the pry method isn't that bad really. If you are having that much trouble, you can just remove the timing cover, mark the belt and pulleys with whiteout find a threaded rod to thread in and release the tension from the tensioner and pull the belt. Than you can remove the cam and they are very easy to do. It would probably be easier to just continue the way that you are doing it though.
 
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bryanwheat said:
Which tool are you talking about? Using the pry method isn't that bad really. If you are having that much trouble, you can just remove the timing cover, mark the belt and pulleys with whiteout find a threaded rod to thread in and release the tension from the tensioner and pull the belt. Than you can remove the cam and they are very easy to do. It would probably be easier to just continue the way that you are doing it though.
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The Mitsubishi VLA removal/install tool. I'll continue using the prybar method. I need this car by Monday.. I can't get good leverage on the prybar for the rockers by the head. Any good technique I can use for them?
 
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Agll30 said:
The Mitsubishi VLA removal/install tool. I'll continue using the prybar method. I need this car by Monday.. I can't get good leverage on the prybar for the rockers by the head. Any good technique I can use for them?
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Do you have a part number for that tool? I can't for the life of me remember seeing one of those. Searching google i did find like 2 pics of one. If they are available still that would be a good one to have in the box. As for doing the exhaust side rockers, i have always had to use a long thick flat head and pry against the casting of the head like on vfaq. Have you looked at the writeup on there, they have some decent pics of the method to use.
 
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bryanwheat said:
Do you have a part number for that tool? I can't for the life of me remember seeing one of those. Searching google i did find like 2 pics of one. If they are available still that would be a good one to have in the box. As for doing the exhaust side rockers, i have always had to use a long thick flat head and pry against the casting of the head like on vfaq. Have you looked at the writeup on there, they have some decent pics of the method to use.
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I couldn't find a part number but here's a link. http://www.toolsource.com/dohc-hydra...r-p-93449.html
I have tried prying against the head but it won't even move up,my fingers are numb from fumbling with the rockers.. I will try at a different angle tomorrow. Here's how it looks now.
 

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