So I have the jmfab catch can and fp intake pipe. Now the problem I am having is under boost oil will spray from the dipstick tube. But the dipstick is not popping out. I do not have it recirculated back into the intake pipe but I did take the breather off the can and sealed it off. Not my lines for the can are coming off the top of the valve cover. I am still using the factory pcv. Would recirculating it back into the intake pipe solve this? I don't want to spring the dipstick down because that isn't fixing the problem. Also my boost is set at 17. I can tap my intake pipe if that will solve the problem. I read calans thread on it multiple times and im having a hard time finding what setup is best for me. I do want to keep the fittings on top of the cover and will get rid of the pcv if that will help.

If you have the lines going to a sealed can then there's no place for the pressure to go , you need to vent the can or connect it to the intake.

If I put the filter back on it should not happen anymore? It was giving me idle issues with the filter that's why I sealed it off.

When you have a vented can, and still retain the PCV setup, it is going to suck unmetered air under vacuum.
You would need to plug the intake manifold fitting, and route the valve cover side of the PCV to your catch can.

So I have the Pcv routed to the intake and 2 lines welded on top of the valve cover. If ran the Pcv to the can it would need it's own can correct? So what are my options? If I put the filter back on I would need to delete the Pcv?

Plug the port on the intake manifold.
I usually thread a barb in to the valve cover where the PCV was, and run a hose from that to the catch can.
But, I suppose you could just leave the PCV there and run a line from it to the can.

If i keep the pcv and run it to a catch can it would need its own can. But can I keep my two lines on top of the valve cover and just keep the pcv like stock? This is what it looks like except im not recirculating it. So just the lines from the valve cover to the catch can. My pcv is just like stock. Its from the vc to intake manifold. It has nothing to do with my can. Can I run it like i have it. The image I attached is how it is now.

The catch can needs to be connected to a vacuum source to function properly.[DOUBLEPOST=1410273839][/DOUBLEPOST]See last post of this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/pc...-need-some-advice-on-an-install.457953/page-2

athlete3344 said:

The catch can needs to be connected to a vacuum source to function properly.

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If he is running it as a sealed can. If it is open/filtered connecting vacuum source directly to the can would suck more unmetered air than he is now with the factory PCV configuration and an open catch can.

You wouldn't need to run the PCV (valve cover port) to a seperate can. All the ports on your valve cover are effectively the same source.

If you leave the factory PCV setup and have the open catch can, while the engine is under vacuum, the PCV valve is open and the intake manifold is pulling pressure from the crank case. If you also have ports allowing unmetered air in to the crank case, it will cause the idle issues you are describing.

Either you need to keep everything sealed, and apply vacuum to the can (to cause flow through the can so it has stuff to catch) or vent the crankcase to atmoshpere and not allow the intake to be pulling vacuum from it at idle.

So can I just vent my can and cap the Pcv or delete it then cap the port on my manifold for the Pcv?

Biggest thing when venting the can in your situation would be capping the port on the intake manifold. If you feel like the ports you have added to the valve cover allow sufficient crankcase relief than you can cap/delete the PCV. The more you vent the crankcase the better, so I would still put a barb where the PCV is a route it to your can.

Is the pcv doing anything now? Am I benefiting with it the way it is or would I be better off deleting it? Running it to a catch can isnt a option for me considering I already have 2 enlarged fittings on the valve cover.

jpmxrider489 said:

Is the pcv doing anything now? Am I benefiting with it the way it is or would I be better off deleting it? Running it to a catch can isnt a option for me considering I already have 2 enlarged fittings on the valve cover.

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If you have the pvc hooked up to the manifold than it is benefiting you. When the engine is pulling vacuum it is pulling the vapors from the crankcase, which will remove moisture and fuel vapors from the crankcase.

Just to throw my 2 cents out here... I had issues with valve cover leaking from the bolts, etc yesterday with a closed catch can with 2 lines running from the valve cover(-10AN). I presumed this to be the culprit so today I modified the can with an OEM PCV valve and ran a 3rd line back to the intake mani where the PCV normally connects too. After reseating the valve cover and running it for a while I had no leaking from the valve cover at all. I'm pretty much certain crankcase pressure was my issue.

bryanwheat said:

If you have the pvc hooked up to the manifold than it is benefiting you. When the engine is pulling vacuum it is pulling the vapors from the crankcase, which will remove moisture and fuel vapors from the crankcase.

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Which would require you to run a sealed catch can, rendering it useless until you have a vacuum source pulling through the can. The vacuum source would be preferably pre-turbo so it is always under vacuum, not just at idle.

i figured I would add to the thread I had started. So I am getting a new valve cover and wanted to update my catch can. The setup I had was a vented can with 2 8an lines going to it and nothing going to the intake pipe. I did have the PCV to the intake manifold. So I was thinking I want a sealed can with 2 8an lines going the can and back into the intake pipe. If doing that can I have my PCV routed to the intake manifold still?

jpmxrider489 said:

i figured I would add to the thread I had started. So I am getting a new valve cover and wanted to update my catch can. The setup I had was a vented can with 2 8an lines going to it and nothing going to the intake pipe. I did have the PCV to the intake manifold. So I was thinking I want a sealed can with 2 8an lines going the can and back into the intake pipe. If doing that can I have my PCV routed to the intake manifold still?

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Yes. Look at the routing. You didn't do anything that wasn't already stock. Yiu just made it bigger and added a container

i just want the pcv to be just as effective as stock. I wasn't sure if adding the catch can would change the way the pcv worked. I don't see the need to add a can between the pcv and the manifold?

Jafro had a setup a while back which ran both stock lines off the vc (side vent and pcv) to one ebay breather type can. The breather was replaced with a line to the intake pipe. The nipple on the intake manifold was plugged. Pcv valve was replaced with a check valve. I ran mine the same way but kept the pcv valve for convenience. It worked well. This was after I cleaned my intake manifold and was obsessed with keeping it clean.

Does anyone else agree that this is a good setup? 2 8an lines to the sealed can and back to the turbo pipe with the pcv valve just from valve cover to the manifold?

jpmxrider489 said:

Does anyone else agree that this is a good setup? 2 8an lines to the sealed can and back to the turbo pipe with the pcv valve just from valve cover to the manifold?

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Thats how id do it... your turbo will help pull crankcase gases out that way. The pcv valve will suck gases out while in vacuum and close during boost(i would get a better check valve though in between pcv and intake).

Just a update I ordered a sealed 8an catch can and going to route it back to the intake pipe. But another question I have is that I see so many people have the fittings on top of the valve cover. I dont want to pay to have them welded and my hood not close. Can some give me a definite awncer if it will close? I am aware that the fittings have to be made low as possible.

jpmxrider489 said:

Just a update I ordered a sealed 8an catch can and going to route it back to the intake pipe. But another question I have is that I see so many people have the fittings on top of the valve cover. I dont want to pay to have them welded and my hood not close. Can some give me a definite awncer if it will close? I am aware that the fittings have to be made low as possible.

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They should if you keep them low as possible... easy way to measure is to put some clay in the 2 spots where you will weld at the approximate height and close the hood... this will also tell you your max height you can have them protruding.

jpmxrider489 said:

Just a update I ordered a sealed 8an catch can and going to route it back to the intake pipe. But another question I have is that I see so many people have the fittings on top of the valve cover. I dont want to pay to have them welded and my hood not close. Can some give me a definite awncer if it will close? I am aware that the fittings have to be made low as possible.

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Enriquez2000 has a good thought about using clay to determine the amount of space you will have. If you still have the heat shield, it may need trimmed. It is also quite common to have the fittings welded to the side of the valve cover to avoid possible clearance concerns. Lastly, ensure that the baffles are removed for proper cleaning. We have a supporting vendor who supplies replacement baffles for just this purpose.

Never really thaught of going 10. Being as it is more of a weekend car and not going to push a ton of boost I felt as 8 was good for me. I was kind of against the side fitting. I didn't want to worry about going below the baffle. Plus I like the look of the top fittings better. I just see the top ones on a ton of dsms and want to confirm clearance on a 2g.