First off, if you are doing it right than you will not remove the pin in the tensioner until you have installed the belt and rotated the engine to make sure it is in time. You need to leave the pin in the tensioner and use the tensioner pulley to apply tension to the belt after installing the belt. Than rotate the engine and check to make sure it is in time. If everything is lined up than you pull the pin and measure tensioner clearance or make sure that you can re install the pin. If you don't set it properly than you will likely jump time or break the tensioner shaft.[DOUBLEPOST=1410046853][/DOUBLEPOST]

mustracetsi said:

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Judging by this pic you need to rotate the exhaust cam one tooth clockwise.

[DOUBLEPOST=1410047358][/DOUBLEPOST]Thank you now question is do I line up again or go a tooth earlier because first time I lined up I came with this results. Thank you for replying so quick a really appreciate it.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html
this should help

It's best to redo the timing from scratch. Rotate the engine until the crank timing mark lines up and the dowel pins are up on the cams.

Use the threaded rod to completely compress the hyd tensioner. You don't need to worry about installing the pin.

Remove the belt and set the timing mark for your rear balance shaft.

Put the belt over the exhaust cam and tie it in place.
If you have 2 17mm wrenches, put one on each cam bolt positioned so you can squeeze them together with one hand.

Squeeze until the marks are lined up on the inside, hold them in place and put the timing belt over the intake cam, tie it in place. You can now release the wrenches, the marks should still be perfectly even.

Now feed the belt from the intake cam around the idler pulley, pull the slack out and feed it around the oil pump sprocket. Check to see that the slack is out of the belt and that the timing mark is correct for the balance shaft.

I then jam a spring type clothes pin between the belt and the bottom of the cover to keep the belt in place.

Feed the belt around the crank sprocket, again making sure there isn't any slack in the belt, and feed it around the tensioner pulley.

Tighten the tensioner pulley to 2 1/2 inch lbs then tighten the center bolt. Loosen the threaded rod. If you mark the rod, count the turns while you're loosing the rod. Correct tension will be between 3 1/2 to 4 complete turns of the rod when there is no longer any pressure on the rod.

Check the clearance with a feeler gauge. Correct tension will be between 3.8 and 4.2mm.

Rotate the engine clockwise 6 complete turns and check all timing marks. Let the engine set for about 30 minutes and again check the clearance. If the marks and clearance checks out, button it up and run it.

Thank you guys, this my first time tackling timing belt and water pump. Good thing I found,well didn't find was balance is gone. Last owner did a bs delete so one less belt to worry about.

looks kinda like your bottom sprocket might be off slightly

You do cams first with getting all marks aligned, lay the belt over the sprockets and clip the belt down on the sprockets-why the need of the two 17mm wrenches to keep the two sprockets locked down with the marks facing each other with dowel pins straight up before laying the belt over the sprockets and clipping the belt down.

Then you lace the oil pump sprocket, then crank sprocket and finish with the adjuster pulleys.

Easy as eating apple pie.

Good luck - dSM

Buy this and have no problems! http://www.jayracing.com/timing-belt-tools-c-17_229/jay-racing-timing-belt-tools-kit-p-214.html
And please before you put a new belt on clean that motor up and change the leaky seals! If your doing it without the tools the exhaust cam will always try and move a tooth off. So to fix that just start a tooth more forward that way when it moves back its dead on. If you had the timing tools the cams would be locked in place and also the auto tensioner held with tension until your absolutely ready! Its worth the $50 to have no headache and perfect timing everytime!