Well its time to start logging this awesome build we are doing for John F from Texas. . Its a 2gb pearl white GSX that is amazing clean. Goal is NOW to make 1400HP.

The build consists of...

Engine package-
LM7 5.3L Iron block
Stock heads - Mild Port work
Holley EFI High Rise Intake
FAST 92MM T.B
Pac Valve Springs
Chromoly Push rods
PRW Stainless Steel rockers
Stock Valves
Bullet Racing Custom camshaft
K1 Rods
Wiseco Pistons
Clevite bearings
Daliey Engineering Dry sump kit

WPC Treated pistons, piston pins, bearings


Transmission/drivetrain/body mods-
Tremec Magnum T56 Transmission
Monster Clutch Twin disc
Custom front and rear suspension

Power adders/fuel-
ProEFI Pro128 Engine management w/ custom harness designed by us
Fuel Injector Clinic 2150's
E85
Custom thin wall twin open scroll manifolds.
BorgWarner S300SXE 61.44MM .88A.R Open scroll turbine housing turbochargers.
WSRD Custom FMIC
Twin Tial 50MM BOV

First up is finish the engine package and get the cage built. This build will take a little bit and will continue as parts show up but very excited to be putting this one together.








MORE TO COME!
www.whalentuned.com

Is it going to have the Oliver turbo billet extreme 150mm rods or did plans change to the BME units. Love them flat top pistons. This should be a killer build with top notch stuff.

Thanks for sharing John. Hopefully John F from Texas jumps on here and creates a DSM Profile so we can follow his journey. Looks like he's going to have a pretty fun DSM to drive.

I told him where I started the build threads. I no longer have a DSM so this is the best I can contribute in forms of a build thread for the community. Waiting on some parts to show up but fab on the front end and roll cage will be happening fairly quick.

Can't wait to see this thing rolling, any reason on choice fornthe BW? And not an FP OR PTE?

Looking Great! quick question. Why are you buying a aftermarket drive shaft is that to just handle the power? or is there any performance gains you get from that?

tuby said:

Looking Great! quick question. Why are you buying a aftermarket drive shaft is that to just handle the power? or is there any performance gains you get from that?

Click to expand...

From the DSS site. It cover all points.
These are our 950HP 3.5" Heavy Duty aluminum drive shafts for the Eclipse and Talon. This shaft is designed to replace the first 2 shafts of the factory 3-piece system. They are made from 6061-T6 aluminum and 3.5" in diameter, it also includes a custom 7075-T6 aluminum plate to convert the CV back to a u-joint style end and bolt to the factory rear shaft section. The first 2 pieces of the stock shaft is 22lbs and our single is only 12lbs. The aluminum shaft is also more torsional than the shorter steel shaft and will help save the rest of the drivetrain from the harmful shock factor of launching the vehicle at the track. We were going to try to make a single shaft but due to Critical speed limitations it would need to be 4" in diameter and would not fit under the car and also the operating angles would not allow for a 1-piece shaft to work. The front angle was 2 degrees and the back was 7 degrees (not good), the problem is the rear joint would move more than 2 times as much as the front and cause a very nasty vibration. The AE-7 manual of Automotive engineers doesn't recommend any driveshaft to have more than a 1 degree difference from one operating angle to the other (this would be a 5 degree spread). Some of the carbon fiber shaft company makes this shaft but the angle problem still remains and in our opinion will cause the fiber to tear over time and fail. This shaft comes complete with a conversion plate for the CV end and all hardware to make this a job that can be done in the garage. This Heavy Duty shaft is rated for 950HP

tuby said:

Looking Great! quick question. Why are you buying a aftermarket drive shaft is that to just handle the power? or is there any performance gains you get from that?

Click to expand...

You think that the stock driveshaft would hold 1000whp? It says right above the pic that its a 950 hp capable drive shaft. Its one solid unit unlike the stock one so its less prone to snap.

Damn, late.

Rsawd95dsm said:

You think that the stock driveshaft would hold 1000whp? It says right above the pic that its a 950 hp capable drive shaft. Its one solid unit unlike the stock one so its less prone to snap.

Damn, late.

Click to expand...

It's actually a two piece unit (still uses stock tail section) instead of three like the oem unit.

Onto the turbo debate, I do not like pte turbos. I have tuned a handful of them and yes they do make nice peak numbers, but they spool late and have terrible transient response. My evo I dd runs a 300sx fmw 62mm in a 1.1 t4 ts housing with a 68mm turbine and reaches 30psi around 4k in 4th. I like t4, I like properly sized turbine housings and wheels, and I like the durability and price the bw has to offer. I do like fp. Before the bw I ran a fp white and made great numbers with it. This turbo will make huge power and I hope it meets my spool and street manner expectations.

Man won't let me post pictures thanks guys this is my baby. John is hooking her up

This is gonna be one awesome build!

More info on manual rack setup please!!!!

Well this car will no longer use any factory suspension components or layout in the front. There will no longer be a "subframe". Paul Volk built me a tubular front k member which used a flaming river rack than we made work in the factory layout. This setup drops a TON of weight off the front of the car.

BW turbos are hard to beat for the price. I'm more then happy with the one on my car. Can't wait to see more progress John.

Very interested to see how this pans out!

Where can I get more info about the front subframe

Any info on the shifter assy? Are you using the evo 4 or mirage type unit?

Beautiful car, looks like it's going to be a monster.

It is an ikeya shifter for a CT9A chassis with an air piston controlled by CO2.

Got the Hoosiers in today! 57DR's are still a few days out.





Annnd we continue to rip this car apart!

Would love to see some step-by-step pics on how you go about changing over from the stock front end to the tubular setup. No real good info out there on how people approach this from deciding where to cut to how to get the bars in the correct positions to allow for headlight/bumper/rad/FMIC mounting.

Here is the start of the tubular front end. But, on this particular build. We have to make new pick up points for the suspension set up. So we did have to cut this farther back than normal.









Cleaned up the cuts..





Then some stencils we using to make plates to block off the frame.

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What's with the spot welds?
I've seen it before, I think it's to strengthen the chassis and reduce flex?

Nice work. One of the newer shops to open up and really impress.

You're correct on the reasoning for the spot welding.

What is the name of this shop? kinda curious....