Perhaps the cables need adjusting now that you but the bushing in. Adjust the cable at the shifter. Or the clutch slave is now leaking or was not bled properly. Take it back to JNZ and tell them to fix it.

troppo loungo said:

Perhaps the cables need adjusting now that you but the bushing in. Adjust the cable at the shifter. Or the clutch slave is now leaking or was not bled properly. Take it back to JNZ and tell them to fix it.

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youre probably right.... now i have to jam in second gear when downshifting too

you could try adjusting the clutch yourself to see if that helps.

There is a big bolt in the middle of the tranny where you can check the oil level. ( if you take it out and oil starts coming out its ok just put it back) . But it dosent sound like it has no iol. if it had no oil tranny will be noisy and will not shift smooth in all the gears.

Yes, it could be the synchro going bad, but most likely its just the linkage has to be adjusted. i dont think it has to do anything with the air in the system cause your pedal will feel spongy and you will most likely have problems with other gears.

Good luck, let me know what it is.

A quick and easy way to check if your synchros are shot is to start the car, take your foot off of the clutch, and let it idle for a few seconds to make sure everything is flowing as it should be. Gently press your shifter towards each gear, again - with your foot off the clutch. As you near each gear the shifter will show some resistance. Don't fret, this is good. As this resistance starts to appear, the engine should begin to audibly lower in tone. This bogging indicates that your Synchros are working against the rotation of the gears and doing their job. Once you hear the engine bog, you can check off that this gear is okay.

Now, if you hear no bog and feel no Resistance and if your shifter simply falls straight towards the gear and you get that all too familiar grind, your Synchro is shot. Per clutch adjustment or not, this is a very good way to check your Synchros but certainly not something that I recommend that you practice doing in your car when bored at a red light. We want them to last as long as possible. As they work, they wear down and fail. Do all you can to keep stress off of them and again, us this as a test.

Brought it to a local transmission shop, the owner is close with my father. He said it seemed like an internal transmission issue

rtrocket59 said:

Brought it to a local transmission shop, the owner is close with my father. He said it seemed like an internal transmission issue

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Just be careful taking advise from people. I don't k is how many times ive been told things like that only for them to be wrong.

Well i adjusted the clutch and everything was running very smooth until the car got warm and it wouldn't let me go into any gear. I had to get the car toed to a transmission shop. I think it may be my hydrolic clutch line. What is the best one to get? i have a heavy duty clutch, its going to get beat up so i want a reliable one.

phunny said:

Just be careful taking advise from people. I don't k is how many times ive been told things like that only for them to be wrong.

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This^^^^

I cant even remember how many times ive tried to get advice and someone gives me a completely off the wall answer.. Not many people are aware of the differences between n/a and turbo cars let alone dsm's from other cars..
Do what XiKeiyaZI said thats the best way to test them.. Definitively be sure it has fluid my tranny leaks like a bi*** and if i let it get low it makes all kind weird sounds and shifts like a 80yr old tractor... Think its bad now wait until your at the track and cant get it into gear and role down half the track trying to get into third haha
Also i add some lucas to it once in a while and that helps... Slows the leak and the tranny sounds better. Going to be replacing the axle seal soon and when i do i think im going to run 50% lucas and 25% gear oil with 25% sycromesh.. Lucas FTW haha i love this stuff little bit of it in the rear diff and t-case aswell as the motor..

Oh and it helps to bump it toward the gear before the one your trying to get into to.. So if your trying to get into third go to second and move it until you can feel a bit of resistance then shift to third.. I have to do this a lot and can do it just as quick as a normal shift haha

got a SS clutch line put in but the gears are notchy sometimes..... could it be the slave cylinder or just the way i am shifting?

troppo loungo said:

Perhaps the cables need adjusting now that you but the bushing in. Adjust the cable at the shifter. Or the clutch slave is now leaking or was not bled properly. Take it back to JNZ and tell them to fix it.

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Just so you're aware, 2g's don't have adjustable shifter cables.

had a SS clutch line put in and everything was going great for about a week than my second gear went to shit. i have to rev match going from 1st-2nd or it grinds. i also can hear the trans from time to time, its very noisey and doesn't sound good. 3rd gear is still kind of notchy. time to rebuild tranny?

ok so when i had my clutch adjusted, my engagement was like 2 inches off the floor. now the engagement is like 2 inches from the top. this means my slave is bad, right?

rockit11 said:

Just so you're aware, 2g's don't have adjustable shifter cables.

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^^unless of course they are 420a 2g automatic just saying

rtrocket59 said:

ok so when i had my clutch adjusted, my engagement was like 2 inches off the floor. now the engagement is like 2 inches from the top. this means my slave is bad, right?

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No if you don't have to pump your clutch to get it to work chances are you slave and master cylinders are good. else if the internal seals were bad the pressure would leak down and engagement would be closer to the floor or not at all. Try adjusting your pedal to change the engagement. Where the master cylinder rod attaches to your clutch pedal there is some adjustment. Loosen the 12mm nut and turn the other piece which is not a hex nut but has two flat sides which fit either a 14mm wrench or 17mm. Can't remember which size it was.

Hey im having truoble with my 95 talon awd if u simply push the clutch and put it in gear and try to take off it will grind (does not grind from a dead stop as you put it in it grinds as you let goo of clutch and try to give it gas so I kinda have to clutch again and re enter 1st ) in second gear same thing will grind after you try and give it gas and let go of clutch but 3,4,5 is fine R is fine too now I clutch shift it into second go back it out a little (kinda wiggle in and out fast 2x and put it into back into second) it will not grind sume of told me bad bushing is this tru?

rtrocket59... If you are close enough to JNZtuning, why not take it back to them? They absolutely know these cars. I wouldn't trust any local shop with my tranny/clutch issues even if like family, or good friends.

One possibility: Since you say it only does it under load (letting clutch out in gear - yet no noise in neutral) it may be the tranny input or intermediate shafts may be moving longitudinally (this is bad). This is usually due to loose 36mm nut on shafts end (http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/shifter.htm) or worn parts like a worn syncronizer hub thrust section (http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/thrustwear-jpg.103934/) or severely worn bearing. Does it pop out of gear also? If so, this is most likely it (http://www.wcengineering.com/articles/popout.html).

A few other things to check are your pivot ball and fork. I know our local guy down here in Phoenix at UMS tuning won't do a clutch job without replacing those every time. Did you have your slave cylinder replaced or just bled? Could have the wrong slave cylinder I know there has been a few threads floating around about the color of the inside of the slave cylinder being red or green, red for awd's. Also syncromesh IMHO is not the best for a dsm trans. Just putting my .02 out there for possible things to check...

See I had a shop inpect it and told me it was just the shifter bushing I thought it was the suncros too & the gear wont grind if I put it in gear and I hear a click sound then itbwill work fine and ive notice the stick has alot of play i stalled it thinking it was in nutral when it was in 4th it wiggles like its in nutral

You might just need to shim the pivot ball! Seems to be a common things around here lately, especially with south bend disc . I'm shimming mine for my south bend setup, everyone I've talked to said that's all it needs. Evo mr gear oil in all my cars and they all (but the galant atm) shift like butta!!

Yep x2 on the evo Mr gear oil. I split mine 50/50 with redline mt90, really didn't want to but I ran out of the good stuff. When I put it in my centerforce dfx disc, I had the guys at centerforce resurface my flywheel and balance it too. Bled the clutch a bunch of times, triple checked everything and go for the the first drive, couldn't get it into gear. I could clearly hear the synchros working but wasn't getting enough disengagement on the pressure plate. So pulled the trans back out and threw in a comp clutch forged fork and ball and now shifts like a dream

^^ cool I have everything out now with mine. I'll be using a 2g fork in place of the weak galant one and new ball and small shim and we shall what happens. Lol

T11GGZ said:

See I had a shop inpect it and told me it was just the shifter bushing I thought it was the suncros too & the gear wont grind if I put it in gear and I hear a click sound then itbwill work fine and ive notice the stick has alot of play i stalled it thinking it was in nutral when it was in 4th it wiggles like its in nutral

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ok.
1) Check the shifter bushings on both ends of both cables for looseness.
2) Check that the cable doesn't move (is tied down on tranny bracket) in the engine compartment when shifting (have helper shift - engine can be off).
3) Check "select lever shoe" for excessive wear: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/97-gs-t-fifth-gear-grinding-help.376341/#post-152266167.