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1G Scratched crankshaft, bearings cut, Repairable? PICS

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noid

15+ Year Contributor
103
0
Oct 10, 2007
Burlington, New_Jersey
I bought a 6 bolt long block and was told it smoked a little ,but ran fine. I planned on changing the rings and I checked the bearing clearances while I was in there and found this. It looks like someone cut the bearings? The clearances were in spec except where the cuts are in the bearings. I could barely feel the scratches on the crankshaft. My question was "Does this crankshaft look useable or repairable or how could i find out?" Thank you for any help.
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Take it to a reputable machine shop and have them polish the crankshaft. IF you can still feel the cuts afterwards it will need to be turned. I had some light scuffs and cuts in mine and it polished out in about 15min at the machine shop.
 
Removing the balls in the crank oil passages is so important in these engines. Most engines are just straight thru drilling that don't require that, but with these if you don't clean the crank passages they will likely eat bearings.
 
Looks like the crank could be saved with a simple polish and as bryan said make sure all oil galleys are cleaned out. What you felt on the crank shaft is probably bearing material smeared onto the crank. Polish crank, clean galleys in both crank and block, and replace the bearings. :thumb:
 
You may want to blueprint everything, like I did with my motor. You can find out some amazing things about it.

I followed Jafro's blueprint series on youtube:
Starting with Blueprint 101:
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And since I did mine just last week, you can see what I found:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1992-talon-tsi-awd-re-habilitation.477703/page-2#post-153453931

Point is, bearings get worn, that's why they are replaceable, but when contamination occurs and the delicate surfaces of the crank get scored, that's bad. If your thumbnail gets caught in those scrapes, bad. My crank was either turned once already, or just worn from having 222k miles of revs on it. I've gotten mixed messages about turned cranks, that just .01" off makes it trash. So to buy a new crank or not, is my dilemma, and now it might be yours too.
 
Thank you for the replies. I guess I have to make some decisions. This was supposed to be a economy build LOL thank you for the help.
 
I would definitely recommend doing the blue printing and not relying on a shop or someone to check it. My project is heading to the shop now, but I double checked everything before I made any decisions. Luckily, everything is just about perfect, and definitely well within spec.

Look at it this way, if you measure everything and find out you need a new crank, it can be replaced now for money up front. Or you can chance it, and run the risk of a tear down later + replacing a crank if thats the problem.
 
most importantly flush the all the oil galleries with a pressure washer. Remove all plugs in the head also and flush. This is so important if you have oil contamination issues. A former friend of mine wouldnt listen to me on this stage and "rebuilt" 3 times but didnt clean the engine well durning the rebuild and ended up just selling the car needing an engine rebuild.
 
Jafro's parts washer is something I will be using as a final wash.

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Also,
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-final-wash-an-engine-block.362154/

and I know I saw another thread about spraying the balls in the crank really well to clean out all the gunk. I cant find it, but the poster basically used brake cleaner and put the nozzle right against the balls. Ive seen other threads on removing the balls and replacing with a set screw.
 
Jafro's parts washer is something I will be using as a final wash.

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Also,
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-final-wash-an-engine-block.362154/

and I know I saw another thread about spraying the balls in the crank really well to clean out all the gunk. I cant find it, but the poster basically used brake cleaner and put the nozzle right against the balls. Ive seen other threads on removing the balls and replacing with a set screw.

Spraying the ball with cleaner will not do anything. They need to be removed and the passages cleaned. About the only effective way to get them out is with a tig welder.
 
Found it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-clean-you-4g63t-crank.458366/

Bryan, Im interested in your thoughts about this thread.

You will never get it all out doing that. You will literally need a drill bit to get all the gunk out of there. For the amount of money people invest in their engines, something as simple as removing the balls and cleaning the passages is pretty cheap insurance. You would be very surprised how many machine shops won't even consider doing this. Out of all the local machine shops to me, all 5 of them, you pretty much have to argue with them to get them to do something like this. I would be willing to bet that a large percentage of these engines that fail prematurely due to bearing problems are related to debris in the crank oil passages.
 
No kidding! I know I saw BogusSVO mentioning a certain size set screw to use when removing the balls. Does the crank need to be rebalanced if you remove the balls? Im interested since Im in the middle of a rebuild.
 
Like he bent the end of the spray can tube, you could probably do that with the smallest brushes in the harbor freight 10-pc bottle brush set. Bend the end at a 90 and swab it around in those holes where the ball is, then follow up with the spraying of cleaner.

Just wrapped my crank in plastic last night, still not sure I want to use it since it's been turned once already.
 
Like he bent the end of the spray can tube, you could probably do that with the smallest brushes in the harbor freight 10-pc bottle brush set. Bend the end at a 90 and swab it around in those holes where the ball is, then follow up with the spraying of cleaner.

Just wrapped my crank in plastic last night, still not sure I want to use it since it's been turned once already.

You still won't get it all out doing this. The balls must be removed.[DOUBLEPOST=1408483117][/DOUBLEPOST]
No kidding! I know I saw BogusSVO mentioning a certain size set screw to use when removing the balls. Does the crank need to be rebalanced if you remove the balls? Im interested since Im in the middle of a rebuild.

No, you should be fine without re balancing.
 
Just make sure its clean when your all done, I remember seeing he post by bogus but cant find it either.
 
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