I picked up a cyclone off of craigslist for $40, and I need some help with setting it up.

I know I need to pick up one of these from a dodge dealer: Vacuum check - 4677204

And from what I read, I can activate it with a fpr solenoid and ECMLink right? How do I do this? I searched but I couldn't find anything with specific details. (I need step by step basics, I'm a newb )

Thanks!


Here's a pic, I'm currently cleaning it (it's CAKED with a layer of oil sludge on the inside). Gasoline is taking care of that pretty easily I'll be making new gaskets with a gasket roll.

Here's a thread explaining the setup in detail: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-properly-actuate-a-jdm-cyclone-manifold.224551/ . For link, you just set the FPR solenoid to activate at a certain RPM. I believe reading around the OEM activation point is 3500RPM? The best place is just after the turbo spools from what I have read. The smaller runners are for getting the turbo spooled, and then you want it to open up after that.

I think I'm missing the butterfly valve actuator, what are my options for replacing it?

i made a thread on how to fix actuators, or replace them, but i mis spelled the title.

if you search
Fixing/Replacing Actuator on Cylone Intake Manifold

i have a little write up on how i fixed the problem
good luck.

since you might be going to a scrap yard, there are MANY vehicles with vaccuum canisters that work perfectly for the cyclone setup on mid 90's and 2000 toyotas and nissans.

EGLTAWLN said:

i made a thread on how to fix actuators, or replace them, but i mis spelled the title.

if you search
Fixing/Replacing Actuator on Cylone Intake Manifold

i have a little write up on how i fixed the problem
good luck.

since you might be going to a scrap yard, there are MANY vehicles with vaccuum canisters that work perfectly for the cyclone setup on mid 90's and 2000 toyotas and nissans.

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks! Do you have a part number for that vacuum diaphram?

sorry don't know the part number.
i had to replace both of the actuators on my cyclone manifolds. i used actuators from toyotas as they are the most similar and easy to remove from a scrapyard engine. in newer mazdas proteges they have mitsu solenoids powering the mazda version of "cyclone" and the solenoids are fantastic. much better plug setup and the newer model solenoid works better than the old 90's dsm stock one..[DOUBLEPOST=1408467275][/DOUBLEPOST]i activated mine at 4000 rpm so it helps force spooling of the turbo.
you can actively watch the cyclone change your torque and horsepower curve on link depending on what rpm you activate it at.
i have a unwanted lean spike when mine activates that i can't seem to tune out. i changes my afr from 11.5 to 13.5 and back to 11.5 in a split second which is scary at 20+ psi.
it doesn't cause me a knock issue, just looks like a bad spike in afr at about 4100-4200 rpm then it clears up and i go fast.

Yeah, on this one (link below) it ooks like there are 2 actuators. Are there supposed to be two of them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151381791756?_trksid=p2059216.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I´m just like you, have missed de actuator of the butterflies, so I think I´m going to the yunkyard....

i am guessing the lower one that is hard to see is EGR. you can block off /eliminate that one. some cyclones came with an egr some didn't. the picture above is a ECIMULTI cyclone which came in EVO's not VR4galants. same same, but little bit different.
you only need one vaccuum diaphram on a cyclone intake to make it work.

ok cool, thanks! I'm trying to find some part numbers for the mazda or toyota actuators. This looks right but there still isn't a part number listed so I can find one locally.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-08-manua...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c854dd52c&vxp=mtr

that one will work. the arm length is a small factor to deal with, but a little bit of re engineering should make it work.

Also you could check 90-93 Honda Accord EX's, they had dual runner intakes and probably have similar actuators. You'll know you have the right one if the engine code is F22A6

Ok cool. I'm taking the head off the car tonight to replace the head gasket and I was hoping to switch the manifolds today since it's easier with the head off, but I'll just wait until I know I have it working properly.

Erik-

Just a couple of quick comments on the Cyclone:

• If you still have AC, you will need to be careful of interference between the #1 manifold runner and AC compressor. There is mixed information on the web about this, so I don't have a clear idea of when it does and does not interfere. However, I got it to fit with some grinding on both the manifold and compressor. Just be sure to check before tightening down - some have broken the flanges on the manifold due to this interference.
• You will need to mount the coil packs and transistor in a new location (versus the stock manifold). Again, the AC makes this a bit more difficult. I made a custom bracket to locate them close to the standard Cyclone location, but moved upward to miss the AC compressor; still using standard spark plug wires.
• Attached is a helpful sketch of the vacuum line plumbing that is from one of the threads here or on Link forums.
• The canister is important, as it has a check valve and prevents boost pressure from reaching the actuator.
• As far as operation, here is a basic concept / process for using the FPS in Link:
  • The butterflys are normally open. We want this state at higher RPMs.
  • When the actuator sees vacuum, it closes the butterflys, blocking the shorter runners. We want this state at lower RPMs.
  • Since the FPS is normally open, the actuator sees vacuum during normal operation (i.e. the FPS is not activated or does not have power).
  • Actuating the FPS in Link, at approximately 4300 RPM, switches the common port (and thus the actuator) to be vented to atmosphere, allowing the butterflys to open.

- Eric

Ah, thank you for your explanation. I didn't know that when the FPRS is activated it closes the normally open port and the common port vents to atmosphere. That makes sense. I posted a thread not too long ago asking that question and didn't get a good answer.

Wow finally someone who actually understands how the Cyclone manifold works. That picture is dead on. The crossover point is total airflow dependent and has little to do with manifold pressure. If you have anything done to change the airflow through the engine from stock (cams, headwork, larger A/R turbine) then the "ideal" crossover point changes. That being said the setting of 3500rpm has worked well in my personal car and in others I have seen using this setup.