Why does the damper knob say koni,When you have a pamphlet saying hks suspension..

You got the steal of a lifetime for 300 bones.Only thing aouut this car i dont like is no sunroof.

Bud92gsx said:

Why does the damper knob say koni,When you have a pamphlet saying hks suspension..

You got the steal of a lifetime for 300 bones.Only thing aouut this car i dont like is no sunroof.

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I have no idea, and to throw more at you, the previous owner told me that the suspension was made by Momo

Did hks ever make any suspention mods for the eclipse.Maybe for the evo.

Koni tho..Thats still a good brand, thats not waaaayyyy overpriced, or ebay junk.

The side wing where the antenna mounts has 2 small cracks in it allowing water into the trunk area.(Very little, no rust yet)
The other issue is a build up of paint around the rear washer squirter has cracked and is seeping a little water but not into the car or head liner yet.

The Battery is toast so I had to replaced it.
Some of the vacuum lines are dry rotted and will need to be replaced (I'll replace all of them).

I got the car started but it dies as soon as you touch the gas pedal so that tells me the fuel pump is toast.I confirmed that by removing the line to from the fuel filter and tested for fuel pressure.

I opened the tank up and confirmed that the gas is bad!

I'll posted a quick start up video on Youtube for any one who cares



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6Kq9vaVC1E

Soo let me add this up for you because im curious..Battery 80 bux,vac lines 30?,fuel pump and filter,100,New gas lets say 60.

270$, LMFAO its gonna be running for less than you paid for the flippin car.

Nice grab, hope to see this one on the road in summer Good deals are always out there, just depends on how mechanically inclined you are. Nice car for the price nonetheless! Got mine running (with a bunch of parts missing, that I had on hand) for a grand. Paint on mine definitely isn't to par with this one though.

Haha nope, I got vac line given to me free when gates rubber here in town closed.
I already have 2 spare fuel pumps a 190 and a 255
I traded a truck to a roofer, he installed a new battery in it and then never finished the job and I kept the brand new battery, fits like a glove in the Talon

wow even if the thing had a hole in the block it would still be a great deal for 300 bucks. nice find!

As I had thought the fuel pump was shot! The tank, pump and sending unit are all rusted up. I can save the tank if needed and even the sending unit but the pump is gone . (Installing a Walbro 255)

Just a little update:

The ecm died and was fixed, the rear 1/4 window was replaced, the fuel tank and sending unit cleaned and pump replaced, wiring fixed up.I picked up some rims and installed new rubber and lugs. It's running strong and ready for a new T-belt.

And I washed it and detailed the engine bay




Just a little trick for any one wanting to remove paint over spray from plastic parts: Soak them in break fluid, it takes the paint right off and doesn't hurt the plastic

Just an update:
After finally getting the car running I found that it wouldn't go in to reverse, after looking every thing over I found the adjuster nut had backed off under the shifter, tightened it up and all is good.
I made a custom ring and welded it on to the top of the gas tank to solve the broken stud issue.
I took it to the car wash to find all of the little leaks....Passenger Door seal top rear corner and all the way across the bottom of the hatch window leak water! Looks like I'm pulling the wing to see what's going on under there.
I had an engine light on and hot low idle surge. I used the multimeter to pull the code/s and found one for the knock sensor (#31). Upon inspection I found the sensor to be unplugged, plugged it in and the light went out and hot idle surge went away also.
I replaced the upper intake pipe as it was dry and cracking.
I replaced the valve cover because some one over tightened it and cracked it.
The door locks would constantly click from locked to unlocked. After looking things over I found the passengers side latch assembly was rusted and seized due to the faulty door seal, after cleaning and lubing it the door locks no longer unlock them selves.
My next mission is to replace the trunk mat and all of the press board under it as its been wet and has deformed.[DOUBLEPOST=1407781057][/DOUBLEPOST]Here is what I did to repair and beef up the flange on the tank....

It sounds like you made a good deal, all in all.

Thank's!
At first glance it looks mint, but it has/had many of the typical DSM issues ...I'll keep at it though

I bought my gsx for a steal from some guy that's not hurting for money. I bought it to use it as a parts car but it turns out there was nothing wrong with it (outside of the classic sycro grind), now it's my daily. Every once in a while luck and good timing can just work out.

Here is how the car sits now.
The first pic is the before and after shots of the engine bay and head lights/paint.
I got a parts car for $100.00 with the rims you see on my car and bought new rubber for them.

Nice! looks good [DOUBLEPOST=1407809491][/DOUBLEPOST]Oh and by the way mine is red too with black hood, pillars, and roof. Got it that way I like the way it looks. Saw your earlier post and you were tossing around the idea.

Nice! Good thing you're restoring it, it hurts when I see people just throwing them away to the junkyard.

holy crap what a find! 122k km things not even broke in yet!

buhay6 said:

holy crap what a find! 122k km things not even broke in yet!

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no kidding, check out how clean the inside of the valve cover is! I've never see one so nice It's a testament to regular oil changes and low km/s

74runner said:

no kidding, check out how clean the inside of the valve cover is! I've never see one so nice It's a testament to regular oil changes and low km/s

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Indeed, so lucky

Nice buy!!

Thank's! everyone

For the rear hatch water leak: Remove the wiper arm, and pop the plastic piece out of the wing that fits under the wiper. Look closely at the rubber shaft seal. Cracked or broken? What I discovered is the dished plastic cover acts like a funnel, channeling the water right past the broken wiper motor rubber. Then it fills the plastic cover that runs across the hatch, just under the window on the inside.

DON'T remove the wing if you don't have to. It is held on with two hex nuts molded into a plastic piece that fits into the bottom of the wing. The plastic cracks, and the nut spins in the plastic. You won't be able to re-install the wing, if you can't find new nut assemblies. I can't find them, and the few left in the junk yards were also broken.

Willi

Thank's!
I guessed it was the seal, called Chrysler last week to see if they had any kicking around any where, but they don't .
There is liquid plastic you can buy from autobody supply stores that will fix the spinning nut problem. I've rebuilt a grill for my 1974 Roadrunner with it and you cant even tell it was ever broken now....
Jump to 13:00 to see some plastic repair:

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/MC2013-11/copo-camaro-component-resto

Thank you.
I'll have to check out the liquid plastic, after I take a fresh look at that plastic block. I have a vague recollection of small tabs broken off of them, also. I was thinking that after I get my vertical mill running, I would replicate them, maybe in aluminum. Don't really need another project, though!

For that wiper shaft seal, I was pondering the use of some Flexane to replicate it. Maybe use a regular seal or o-ring for the shaft contact/sealing, and mold that into the Flexane shroud/body. There is an additive to lower the durometer of the stuff.

BTW, if you use a very precise weighing scale, you can successfully mix Flexane in less than whole can amounts. I figured that out over twenty years ago doing engineering involving surgical lasers.

I suspect it would also be good for firming up motor mounts and driveshaft hangers. I think there is now a generic maker of the stuff, so it should be cheaper.