Just Got My 1GB!

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

Bear with me....I am a humble DSM noob. I just got my 94 Eclipse GSX with 150,000 miles and drove it 300 miles back to where I live. It made it back fine, but along the way blew the hose off of the throttle body...even after securing it seems to be overboosting but the stock gauge (which most likely sucks) isn't even working. Maybe a seized wastegate...but I digress.

Anyways....I am feeling overwhelmed here. I am reading the 1000 questions and everything I can find. I am purchasing the service manual ASAP and I want to get a boost gauge and datalogger. There are just so many ways I could go I don't know where to start.

A list of things I noticed on the way back:

1. RPM or Speed dependent ticking (Probably lifters but almost sounds like the speedo from where it's coming from) Edit: I need to check if it's the same sound while in neutral.
2. Grinding while going into 1st and 2nd unless I double pump the clutch (Gets stuck down on left turns)....slave cylinder replaced with larger diameter steel line.
3. Probably multiple small boost leaks.
4. Possible wastegate issue.
5. Noisy drivetrain (lash in diffs/transfer case?...AWD system just characteristically noisy?)
6. Squeaks from suspension.
7. Some smoke under hood after driving but no visible leaks (Possibly PCV from blow by or EGR)...it's black smoke.

I know this is an annoying noob post. I hope you will allow me one haha. The car has a DSMChip sticker on the side...I have no knowledge of the car other than it's a Big 16g turbo. I don't know if the timing belt has ever been changed...arghh. Where would you guys start? Would you basically just park the car and do everything you can think of to get it up to spec? I'm paralyzed. Any advice would be much appreciated. Where did you guys start on your first DSM project car?

DSM Chase · Aug 6, 2014

Boost leak test, check all coolant lines, change oil and trans fluid if clutch is good. Timing belt job if you don't know when the last one was done. New plugs and wires always helps... New air filter/ intake pipe setup, Fuel filter as well. Mods come after everything is in working order, basic maintenance done and no major issues.

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

DSM Chase said:
Boost leak test, check all coolant lines, change oil and trans fluid if clutch is good. Timing belt job if you don't know when the last one was done. New plugs and wires always helps... New air filter/ intake pipe setup, Fuel filter as well. Mods come after everything is in working order, basic maintenance done and no major issues.

Thanks for your reply. I know what you said to be the case deep down but i'm a perfectionist and I think I'm afraid to open this can of worms haha. I just took it to the store and I'm pretty sure it needs wheel bearings. I'm just going to get the shop manual and basically perform a check/measure every component I can get to without tearing down the engine and tranny. It also needs mounts...the shifter moves quite a bit under acceleration.

thomcasey · Aug 6, 2014

Do you have the original motor in that? The clutch staying on the floor during left turns is concerning.

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

thomcasey said:
Do you have the original motor in that? The clutch staying on the floor during left turns is concerning.

Yes it is the original motor. I know.....potential dreaded crankwalk. I didn't think that happened on 7 bolt 1st gens. Later I will see if I can get it to move at the crank pulley. I guess if it is crank walk i'll be going with a built long block. That would solve a lot now wouldn't it? haha

phr0st · Aug 6, 2014

Indeed the clutch sticking to the floor is cause for concern. I would check the end play on your crank shaft before you put anymore money into it. Also drain the oil and remove the filter, cut it open to check for bearing material.

phr0st · Aug 6, 2014

Mikey851 said:
Yes it is the original motor. I know.....potential dreaded crankwalk. I didn't think that happened on 7 bolt 1st gens. Later I will see if I can get it to move at the crank pulley. I guess if it is crank walk i'll be going with a built long block. That would solve a lot now wouldn't it? haha

Any motor can suffer from "crank walk".

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

phr0st said:
Indeed the clutch sticking to the floor is cause for concern. I would check the end play on your crank shaft before you put anymore money into it. Also drain the oil and remove the filter, cut it open to check for bearing material.

Thanks for the tip.

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

phr0st said:
Any motor can suffer from "crank walk".

Obviously....but some are notorious for it and the 1st gens are not right? I knew it was a possibility but decided to go ahead with it anyways because my plan for the car would eventually require a built block...I'm just trying to stay positive haha

phr0st · Aug 6, 2014

The 1g 6 bolt motors are less known for it. All 7 bolts seem more prone however the 98-99 7 bolts have a better thrust washer design.

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

Gotcha....well that sucks, but such is life I suppose. I'll post up after I check the crank end play.

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

So I just went and used a pry bar on the pulley and at least it doesn't have any noticeable play. I'd have to use a dial gauge to make sure it's within spec but it's not moving to my eyes.

Edit: Just to clarify I did try to move it both in and out.

Type1DSMr · Aug 6, 2014

Good luck on the clutch. I was start on maintenence and check if there's any supporting mods for that 16g.

Mikey851 · Aug 6, 2014

Type1DSMr said:
Good luck on the clutch. I was start on maintenence and check if there's any supporting mods for that 16g.

Yeah...I'm going to look at the slave cylinder first. For all I know he didn't bleed the system properly. I'm pretty much going to check everything including turbo shaft play etc. That's the only thing I don't like about these cars are how people treat them before they get into the right hands.

Type1DSMr · Aug 6, 2014

Mikey851 said:
Yeah...I'm going to look at the slave cylinder first. For all I know he didn't bleed the system properly. I'm pretty much going to check everything including turbo shaft play etc. That's the only thing I don't like about these cars are how people treat them before they get into the right hands.

So true hard to find a good one that ain't beat to death.

Mikey851 · Aug 8, 2014

So I checked it again for crankwalk while having someone actuate the clutch and that's exactly my problem.....son of a #1$!*. I called the guy and he said for me to come up with an idea about how we can work it out. I really don't know.....

Type1DSMr · Aug 8, 2014

How good of shape is the car in. If still nice or even good I would just swap another motor in it. If he's willing to help you out maybe some money back or buys you. Another engine.

Mikey851 · Aug 8, 2014

The car actually isn't in great shape....not bad but definitely has flaws. I am actually picking up a 1990 shell that's in really good condition for very cheap so I'm just going to use the 94 as a donor for the tranny/driveline, fuel system and was going to use the engine. I'm going to see if he'll buy me a 6 bolt motor (He probably will from talking to him) and then use my big 16g and 3 inch exhaust with it until I can afford a rebuild.

Type1DSMr · Aug 8, 2014

Now what supporting mods do you have for that big 16g? Is it an actual Mhi or knockoff.

Mikey851 · Aug 8, 2014

Type1DSMr said:
Now what supporting mods do you have for that big 16g? Is it an actual Mhi or knockoff.

It's a knockoff. I have a walbro 255, 550cc injectors and pressure regulator and msd ignition. I also have a wideband and boost gauge. Will be getting ECMLink and EEProm. Stock intercooler. I am just now starting the project so none of this stuff has been used yet.

donniekak · Aug 8, 2014

phr0st said:
Any motor can suffer from "crank walk".

That's true. But anyone can also contract breast cancer, it's just way more prevalent among females. 7bolt 4g63 engines are more likely to develop crank walk than the average engine.

Mikey851 · Aug 8, 2014

donniekak said:
That's true. But anyone can also contract breast cancer, it's just way more prevalent among females. 7bolt 4g63 engines are more likely to develop crank walk than the average engine.

Well mine contracted it LOL

. I'm probably going to buy a built long block and throw it in. If you price everything out with timing belt etc. and machine work it's not so much difference that I absolutely have to build it myself....although it is satisfying.

yamaripper415 · Aug 8, 2014

Good luck sorry to hear about your cranking a stroll.

Type1DSMr · Aug 8, 2014

You should get rid of that cheap big 16g and buy a real Mhi. Those Chinese built turbos are no good.

Smilinjay · Aug 8, 2014

Dang... Im sorry to hear your first dsm experience was so rough. But when you first do a pull in a healthy 1g all will be worth it. I was in the same boat as you with being scared to completely dig in and work on these things but they are really simple cars and great bang for buck. I agree though you should toss that ebay 16g in favor of a real one. Good luck!

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