Maybe some kind of shaft speed sensor? A lot of diesel ecu's monitor that nowadays. E="chaclark83, post: 153438903, member: 62766"]Well I dropped the dime on the gt2259. If I can figure out how to post a pic from my phone I will but its got a weird hole about 1/4" diameter drilled and tapped into the chra. You can see the turbine shaft through the hole. No idea what it could be for.[/QUOTE]
Maube

Seamus said:

Maybe some kind of shaft speed sensor? A lot of diesel ecu's monitor that nowadays. E="chaclark83, post: 153438903, member: 62766"]Well I dropped the dime on the gt2259. If I can figure out how to post a pic from my phone I will but its got a weird hole about 1/4" diameter drilled and tapped into the chra. You can see the turbine shaft through the hole. No idea what it could be for.

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Maube[/QUOTE]
That could be a possibility. It has a flat spot machined on the shaft behind the hole. Most speed sensors I've seen read off the compressor wheel though.

chaclark83I post: 153441260 said:

Maube

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That could be a possibility. It has a flat spot machined on the shaft behind the hole. Most speed sensors I've seen read off the compressor wheel though.[/QUOTE]
Yea that is where i have seen them as well but there are more than one way to shave a *****.

Justin,

I have a 16g that is making a high pitch whine at idle. Blipping the throttle makes it go away for a second but it comes right back. If I increase the throttle steadily, it just gets louder.

I'm guessing this is a sign of a turbo on its way out?

Is has very little / no shaft play radially or in or out (thrust) which makes me question where the noise is coming from .

It never made this noise before, and the only differences since my engine rebuild to the turbo itself was tapping a boost source on the cover (I was as careful as possible to avoid unwanted ingestion of metal shavings, and the turbo was off the car so I was able to make the shavings fall out of the cover rather than down into the compressor wheel) and a new turbine housing purchased through you. I have a video showing the noise and I will upload that once I figure out how.

I removed the intake to make sure it was indeed coming from the turbo and it sure seems like it. With the intake off it was MUCH louder.

It's been 500 miles since my engine build (JAM 2.3L) and I have NOT checked the oil pressure going to the turbo.

My engine still has balance shafts and I have no reason to believe my oil pressure increased dramatically since the build.

My air filter has seen better days and is very filthy and is more than likely causing a restriction.

I have other turbos on the shelf waiting to be put on (hx35 in bep and hy35) I would just rather have a better idea of why it started to go (if indeed it is) before slapping on another turbo without fixing the cause. Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Is there some way I rule out some of the potential causes? Or once I take the turbo off, inspect it to determine its cause of failure?

Are you certain it's the turbo making the noise? I've had BOV's make the same noise you're describing on two different cars. Downright annoying.

About the only way it could be the turbo making the noise is if one of the wheels is rubbing the housing. If you can't force either wheel to touch with the engine off, it's doubtful the noise would be coming from the turbo.

Hm. I didn't even think of the BOV. I did just put on a 1g bov on because my greddy type that stripped out the adjustment screw so I replaced it.

Is there a solution to fix the bov if that is the issue?

I think it has something to do with the valve's position at idle....you can try crushing the top of the valve a little to see if it stays closed at idle a bit more, but don't go too far or it can cause surge by delaying the valve's response once vacuum is introduced to the upper chamber.

Is the valve stock or has it been Dodge Garage Modded?

It's stock. I needed a new BOV anyways so I just purchased a new NGR unit, so hopefully that solves the problem. I'll update my post with results and the video once I swap it out for future reference of other users.

Thanks again

and a video of the noise:

hahaha, that's hilarious. I'd be annoyed too. Can you post a video and clamp/squeeze on the bov return tube? See if the pitch changes or whatever...

Just for future reference, my problem was indeed the BOV and here is a video showing that the noise is coming from it.


Thanks for the help

Couple of quick questions. I have a 16G that needs some seals but not all of them, and I have a 16G rebuild kit that was given to me by a friend (not sure on the manufacture of the kit) as partial payment for doing some work on his car for him, actually was more like left in my possession.

Symptoms.
1. Air leak between compressor housing and back plate.
2. Oil in my inter cooler, all emissions are currently removed from the car except for the PCV valve (I know bad on me and I am currently in the process of fixing that) so there is no tubing running from the valve cover to the inlet "pre turbo" so it cant be blow by.
3. And lastly when doing a BLT there is a slow bubbling sound coming from the bottom end of the engine which I imagine is air making its way down the oil drain line and bubbling up through the oil in the pan (sounds like someone slowly blowing bubbles in chocolate milk, Blub... Blub... Blub). Other than that there is nothing wrong with the turbo. There is no play in the shaft either in/out or side to side, it builds boost fine and does not make any unusual noises.

Questions.
1. Can I get away with just replacing the two large "O-rings" on the compressor side or does the thrust washer need to be pulled and the ring seal replaced on the front of the turbo.
2. The kit in these pics, is it usable for this application or is it the wrong kit entirely?
3. Is it normal for the ring seals to be twisted like they are?

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I can see why he gave you the kit, he ruined that rear seal. The journal bearings also look like garrett bearings for the non-geniune MHI turbos.

Well pooped the turbo CHRA and compressor off today. Figured I will at the very least replace the big o-ring on the back of the cover. After some close inspection there is just a little bit of side to side play. looking at a rebuild kit now. Which is most advisable?

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turborepairkitfuso4d34ttd05-3td05h-14g16g-1-1.aspx
or
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turborebuildkitgenuinemitsubishitd05td0616g18g.aspx

Thanks.

Most guys doing OEM rebuilds just go for the kits sold by TraderGreg on eCrater...otherwise the OEM kit you linked there above would make it as good as it was when it was new.

The first kit you linked would likely require some modification to the center housing for the larger thrust washer to clear without rubbing.

Another option is to buy new sealing rings and use the rebuild kit you have there assuming the rest of the parts are all new.

Thank you for the reply. Actually I went by a place local here yesterday and was hooked up with a good deal on MHI bearings seals and a new thrust plate and I used the o-rings from the kit i had on hand. Now I just need to re thread the head for the banjo bolt and figure out how to remove the alignment pin for the turbine housing. The pin seared and is now stuck in both the turbine housing and the center bearing housing. probably just going to leave it that way and re assemble.

the pin is just for clocking...it's not needed.

Needing info on my Frankenstein, and will this be a good turbo. 16g cartridge, billet extended 6+6 tip compressor wheel, tdo6 anti surge housing and a fp 080 hot side housing. If I have read right this will be on the lines of a super 20g?

Justin, I have a quick question regarding a potential upgrade to the PTE/Garrett BB 50 trim I have. A local has an older PTE 5031E journal bearing turbo that apparently is in the process of getting a GT35R compressor wheel installed. Now this could be an easy answer, cause my gut tells me that the wheel won't fit even if the backplate could be machined down enough, although he is a fairly knowledgeable guy from what I've seen and has the matching compressor cover so as long as the wheel can fit on the shaft and the cover can bolt down maybe it is in fact possible?

My idea is to use my BB Garrett CHRA instead of the journal bearing unit to complete this upgrade and basically have a 3065. The part number for my CHRA is 757197-5004 which is pretty similar to the other GT30R cartridges, leaving me hopeful that the big compressor wheel could actually fit. Please let me know what your think and if it is possible to fit the wheel and cover, would it be necessary to rebalance? Thanks!

NWHTanK said:

Needing info on my Frankenstein, and will this be a good turbo. 16g cartridge, billet extended 6+6 tip compressor wheel, tdo6 anti surge housing and a fp 080 hot side housing. If I have read right this will be on the lines of a super 20g?

Click to expand...

You can't really compare one turbo to another in terms of performance when you're just throwing parts together like that. Personally, I don't feel any 16G needs an 8cm2 turbine housing unless you're running pump gas and a very high boost level....and I wouldn't really be standing in line to buy a turbo that performs like the laggiest 20G ever adapted to our cars. The Super 20G should never have had a 10cm2 turbine housing.

Fullthrottle7 said:

Justin, I have a quick question regarding a potential upgrade to the PTE/Garrett BB 50 trim I have. A local has an older PTE 5031E journal bearing turbo that apparently is in the process of getting a GT35R compressor wheel installed. Now this could be an easy answer, cause my gut tells me that the wheel won't fit even if the backplate could be machined down enough, although he is a fairly knowledgeable guy from what I've seen and has the matching compressor cover so as long as the wheel can fit on the shaft and the cover can bolt down maybe it is in fact possible?

Click to expand...

Possible, perhaps- but I would never use that small of a turbine on a GT35R compressor or you're asking for reliability problems, horrible compressor surge, etc.

Fullthrottle7 said:

My idea is to use my BB Garrett CHRA instead of the journal bearing unit to complete this upgrade and basically have a 3065. The part number for my CHRA is 757197-5004 which is pretty similar to the other GT30R cartridges, leaving me hopeful that the big compressor wheel could actually fit. Please let me know what your think and if it is possible to fit the wheel and cover, would it be necessary to rebalance? Thanks!

Click to expand...

What turbine housing are you planning to use on this?

Thanks for the response, the turbine housing is just the standard .63AR Precision bolt on Mitsu housing for the 30R/50trim turbos that has been ported a bit. I figured that this would be a tough task, but since the 3065 is so popular and successful I figured it may be worth a shot. Granted the FP housing is amazing and the PTE is not, I didn't know if their flow capacity is different enough to make it a totally dumb idea or one worth giving some effort. The thought of even 60lbs/min is enticing, but I probly should not ruin a nice BB 50 trim and just get an HY35 or HX40 and be done with it .

So I recently bought a 2g GSX that had 2 turbos taken apart in the back. I'm trying to figure out which turbo this is, but can't find the thread I found way back when I learned my Spyder's turbo is a Big T28. So, with the pictures I'm providing, do I have a 13b, 14b, or 16g? Or something else I'm forgetting?

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This turbo will need a major rebuild to include the shaft, would you be able to supply the shaft and any other possible part (I know extra $$)?

It's a 14B....and don't even try to fix it, just throw it away.

Damn, there goes that idea. Thanks. Curious though, why is it not worth rebuilding?

Obvious compressor damage...and you can buy a working 14B core with no wheel damage for less than what it would cost for the parts to repair this boat anchor.

Save the actuator, v-band clamp, compressor cover and snap ring, oil lines, and the turbine housing if it's not damaged/cracked. I can always build a new CHRA for you for a price that I will not discuss publicly.