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MAFT with wideband no logger

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TurboLaserRS

10+ Year Contributor
512
6
May 14, 2011
Dayton, Ohio
I'm simply trying to get my car stable for the trip to pittsburgh tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone at all could help. I had to go MAFT unexpectedly after my 14b blew, and I didn't have the proper intake pipe (my 20G inlet is 3 inch.) Since I already was planning to go MAFT and had it laying around, along with the upper intercooler pipe already installed it seemed like the easiest solution to go to.
Now the thing is that I don't have a pocket logger yet, the seller I was waiting on didn't come through until way too late and so I've been trying to tune via my AEM UEGO. I know it's not ideal but it's got to be better than the people that just slap the MAFT on with no logger OR wideband.

First of all, the chart on the MAFT fullthrottletech tuning guide makes absolutely zero sense when it's showing how to set the dip switches. It shows off in both catergories and maybe I'm just stupid but I don't understand. I've tried every combination of dip switch I can think of except for number 4 "extreme". I'm currently running it with the 1st dip switch up, so I'm guess that means it's on. If I run it with both 1 and 2 'on', it actually runs pretty well, but VERY rich.
At it's current place it idles in the 13:1 AFR range.... sometimes. Sometimes after a decel and sitting at a light it will suddenly go lean like 16:1 for no apparent reason. Then sometimes while sitting for an extended period it suddenly goes back to a nice rich idle, I cannot figure out what condition would cause this. I have even thought maybe the TPS was not reading correctly so I loosened my throttle cable just a little bit to make sure that my throttlebody plate was closing properly. I thougth that made a difference at first, but after 15 minutes of driving the car it was doing the same shit again.
I've gotten my cruise AFRs to around 14.5-15.5. Sometimes it's a little sloppy getting on the throttle and slow to react before it richens up the AFR. The cruise AFR sounds pretty okay to me for a steady state.
If I give it some real pedal and start building boost, a second or two later it drops into the mid 11's AFR which is where I would expect it to be, but why the delay? During that delay time I could be knocking and not even know it, which has made me extremely paranoid to even drive the car. I know people have 'gotten by' on way less, and I'm not generally a half-assed tuner but I had to get the car back running due to my friend getting t-boned in his moms car and needing the car he was lending me back.
If anyone offers up to help I can give you my current MAFT settings and see what you think.
I'm running the stock 450s right now, MAFT is in blow through config.. any other info you need please ask. Thanks.
 
If you have 450's, leaving it stock condiguration would probably be best. I do t know anyrhing about maft switches and setting. But you don't need to tune a car with 450's. Especially just to make a trip. If anything, you would probably need to lean it out and make some timing adjustments which the maft can't even do. If you have a laptop and can use tre's free PC logger.
 
:notgood: Actually, regardless of injector size you need to tune a car when switching to a new air metering system. This is especially true of the MAF-T when configured in blow through mode.
Setting the injector base to 2 for 450's makes my car run insanely lean, even with an ECU reset. I'm pretty sure pegged off the gauge lean isn't how the car is supposed to run.
 
I guess I can't edit my own post now? That's interesting.
I'm beginning to wonder if maybe something is wrong with my 450's. They are nearly 25 years old and who knows if they've ever been cleaned or rebuilt. (doubt it) Maybe an injector is sticking sometimes and the maft is interpreting this as the car is not at 'idle'.
 
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