phr0st said:

I would not recommend open-source tuning for someone with little to no experience on this platform as there are no "safety nets". ECMlink is pretty idiot proof(no insult intended) and will most likely be anything you'll ever need. Also you mentioned a AEM wideband, while it is a decent wideband, it doesn't like to log correctly with link. You can spend hours trying to get the scaling correct to match the gauge with the ecu, then the next day it will be off again.

As for your spark question. hopefully this little image from ecmlink wiki will guide you in the right direction.

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I would also suggest trying to bring the car back to stock. Start checking/replacing the basics.

1: Spark ($3 spark tester from an autoparts store.)
2: Fuel (is there fuel in the rail? after several attempts to start pull the plugs and see/smell them for fuel)
3: Compression test it. No one cares what the previous owner says.(in fact i usually bring my compression tester along before purchasing a new vehicle.

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rangerguy said:

Thanks! I haven't even tried to start it yet. Waiting on title atm before I sink a penny in it.

I assume you can do basemaps right? Enough without DSMlink so to speak to say get it running and driving to a dyno?

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4g63t said:

The only reason i suggested openecu and evoscan is because it is a very powerful tuning program and cost effective (seeing as he already has the right ecu for it). I know it’s not for beginners yada yada yada(no offence op) But honestly to only have ecmlink to compensate for injectors seems quite silly to me. (Not sure what your future plans hold, but I’m thinking in the moment)
However, let us know when you get that title and we can keep getting you down the right track on getting that thing purring. Good luck!

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livedsm4g63 said:

I would agree with you 100%.
When it comes to tuning Evo's/dsm's with this config, there is so much that can be accomplished whereas ECMlink is very very basic. Mainly limited to the time era the ECU came out.

If he does follow this path, a dollar says he bricks the ECU
No hard feelings.

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rangerguy said:

Toms Turbo Garage

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rangerguy said:

I think that transistor is a 1g....should I be using that?

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brads said:

It should be fine. I don't recall the differences in part numbers between 2G and 91-94 PTU, but the 91-99 transistors should all plug in the same.

Ok thank you.

The CAS connector looks like they bought one of the 1G2G cables sold by a few people. And probably bought it within the last year or two. It is missing the metal clip to hold it on to the CAS, which you may want to repair that. And you might want to seal the connection that goes from the white wire to the red. That is the cam sensor wire from the 1G CAS that attaches to the 97- cam sensor wiring.

Sorry which pic are you referring to? That white wire in the pic before the jumbled harness pic.....that wire does not go the red wire, but to the blue wire with a red stripe.

I just noticed the other end of the CAS adapter harness. It is hardwired in? And it looks as if it is tapped into the wiring. Did they leave the 3 pin triangle crank sensor connector still attached to that? Interesting. It might allow you to swap back to a 2G head setup quicker. Who owned the car beforehand? I bet it is someone that was on this board.

Second jumbled harness pic? Its all just kinda tied together. I will try to take a better pic.

The 3 pin sensor you posted was the MDP. You will need that plugged into the intake manifold if you go back to a stock ECU. Other ECU systems like dsmlink allow you to disable it.

The guy made a pretty trick adapter so that once that sensor is bolted up to the adapter itself it can run to any vac source.

And the unplugged black connector in the turbo pic may be for the front O2 sensor. Hopefully that is still intact in the exhaust.

I think that's for something on the water neck/tstat housing.....or it may be the cruise control connection....I cant remember from that pic.

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livedsm4g63 said:

Thats my lady jam.

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phr0st said:

I forgot to add this tidbit. You may want to set the car to TDC and pull the CAS to make sure it's not 180* off.

It should line up like this with the car at TDC with the notch on the spline matching the small notch on the housing:

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phr0st said:

from what I can tell everything looks correct on the adapter harness. A better picture on the timing belt side of the harness would help.

Also tape those wires that were cut from the 2g cas plug. It's never a good idea to leave wires exposed like that.

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TurboLaserRS said:

That turbo is a 16G. It's a Genuine MHI at that. I can't see the numbers very well on it. If you get a good shot of the numbers that are on the 'left' side of the picture we can tell you exactly which 16G you have.

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phr0st said:

from what I can tell everything looks correct on the adapter harness. A better picture on the timing belt side of the harness would help.

Also tape those wires that were cut from the 2g cas plug. It's never a good idea to leave wires exposed like that.

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TurboLaserRS said:

That turbo is a 16G. It's a Genuine MHI at that. I can't see the numbers very well on it. If you get a good shot of the numbers that are on the 'left' side of the picture we can tell you exactly which 16G you have.

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rangerguy said:

I intend to run some cable braid over the whole thing. and those two wires on the cas side? leave them alone....trim em?

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phr0st said:

Yes those 2.

They are no longer used with the 1g CAS.

I cap my wires off by folding a small piece of electrical tape over the end then slip some shrink wrap over that and shrink it down. This way there is no moisture getting in the wiring but it would likely be fine to just fold them back into the harness and tape it up(or just tape them up like they are). I'm just anal.

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