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Chumpaumpalumpa

Chumpaumpalumpa

Proven Member
1,554
303
Jun 16, 2014
La Habra, California
Hello everyone!!
First I'd like to say I'm a newbie to the world of DSM but I have some experience modding other cars. Currently I'm looking to built a 6 bolt 1992 talon tsi AWD to around 400whp on CA pump gas..... But before you all get on me about how this has been posted 157,000 times already I'd just like to run these specifics past the dsm wisemen, or anyone with some experience for that matter. This car is my daily and I'd like to be able to keep it fairly streetable So with that being said, the mods I'm looking at so far are as follows:
20g turbo (21-24 psi)
Walbro 255 pump w/ 770cc injectors
Fp2 cams
Kevlar timing belt
TRE built trans
Port & Polish stock heads
DSMlink v3 lite w/EPROM
ACT 2600 pressure plate
K&N intake
3" exhaust
Some other suspension & brake stuff
But for the engine, what mods am I forgetting that are important.... Any thoughts regarding pistons rods or other supporting mods? Thanks everyone in advance for support. P.S. Don't be afraid to be to hard on me it's a learning experience n u guys have more than me so please tell me honestly what I need or replace what parts with stronger/different parts or whatever and what rpm should I limit it to as I would like to keep the balancing shafts in..... I was thinking around 8000 rpm what do you guys think..... Fire away!!!:D
 
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Chumpaumpalumpa said:
My goal is to only have it on the dyno one time twice at the most if I can so I'll probably get all supporting mods together, throw em on maybe tune, get a turbo to slap on and pay for a good tune... This seems more logical to me but I'm new to DSM soooooo....
Click to expand...
For starters, your car is at 160-170 AWHP as it sits right now... (assuming no power adders and factory 'tune') This has been shown by multiple stock-ish dynos.

Here's what you need to run a 20g at the minumum:
Injectors (might as well grab some 1050s they generally cost the same as 650s used...)
ECMlink (please dont get an afc or safc etc...)
Upgraded MAF for airflow (just go SD instead its easier and cheaper and a lot more flexible)
20g (of course, I vote tdo6h since the tdo5h is picky on pump gas and I def would have wanted a little more oomph)
Clutch (oem will likely start to slip once you pass 200-250AWHP)
AFPR Fuel lab ones are nice (NEED this because of below)
Walbro 255 High Pressure (YOU NEED THIS) Rewire it. Cheap insurance, maximizes pump performance.


Here's some things you should consider:
Exhaust would be nice (manifold, o2 and turbo back)
Catch can will save headaches, check out Calan's
Intake and big filter might help
FMIC if you want to help maximize timing advance under boost
Meth injection (more timing...)

Pretty much look at my mod page. I am pretty much set up to max out a 20g on pump gas with all stock engine internals.

If you wanna go nuts: Build your engine, stroke it, cams, intake manifold etc... Big money caould probably stretch the 20g 50-75 horses on top of the 350 you can expect.
 
Upvote0
GSLENK said:
For starters, your car is at 160-170 AWHP as it sits right now... (assuming no power adders and factory 'tune') This has been shown by multiple stock-ish dynos.

Here's what you need to run a 20g at the minumum:
Injectors (might as well grab some 1050s they generally cost the same as 650s used...)
ECMlink (please dont get an afc or safc etc...)
Upgraded MAF for airflow (just go SD instead its easier and cheaper and a lot more flexible)
20g (of course, I vote tdo6h since the tdo5h is picky on pump gas and I def would have wanted a little more oomph)
Clutch (oem will likely start to slip once you pass 200-250AWHP)
AFPR Fuel lab ones are nice (NEED this because of below)
Walbro 255 High Pressure (YOU NEED THIS) Rewire it. Cheap insurance, maximizes pump performance.


Here's some things you should consider:
Exhaust would be nice (manifold, o2 and turbo back)
Catch can will save headaches, check out Calan's
Intake and big filter might help
FMIC if you want to help maximize timing advance under boost
Meth injection (more timing...)

Pretty much look at my mod page. I am pretty much set up to max out a 20g on pump gas with all stock engine internals.

If you wanna go nuts: Build your engine, stroke it, cams, intake manifold etc... Big money caould probably stretch the 20g 50-75 horses on top of the 350 you can expect.
Click to expand...
Many people claim 400whp with a td06h and stock internals with a great tuner @ 25-30psi depending on supporting mods......only the dyno can truly tell..... what would that setup make on e85?
 
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Chumpaumpalumpa said:
what would that setup make on e85?
Click to expand...

You wont know till you try it...

A trap speed at the end of a quarter mile can tell OR a 70-90mph time is a good indicator. Too many variables on a dyno (its strictly used to boost egos, compare back to back adjustments) Horsepower is a function of how fast you can get something that weighs a set amount, up to a certain speed. (can substitute how fast (time) for distance if needed they are 'interchangeable').

If you are going e85, I think 1250s might work. Find the flow rate of your turbo, a 20g likely does around 40-47 lb/min. And check against that table. Honestly you could have found all this info searching threads and stalking peoples profiles. That's what they are here for. You will kick yourself if you get a bigger turbo and have to upgrade again. 1450s are the largest oem style injector (hi or low z cant remember) that you can tune to idle without a separate box.
 
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Boy that's a whole other story. Glad you got a chuckle. I've built to many chevys. DSMs are new to me so they have my attention now. Ask the kid in the LS-1 6 speed T/A that wanted to "play" a couple nights ago. If he will talk about it...... :D
 
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GSLENK said:
Yeah, did you check what fuel they were running as a supporting mod? Or maybe they bolted on an extra .3L displacement. Are you sure they were AWD and/or full weight? Are you talking DynoJet or Mustang Dyno?

400AWHP on a mustang dyno, 2.0L tdo5h 20g 91oct and 11 seconds in full weight street tires is an amazing feat. 400hp and 11 sec in a 2.3L FWD gutted/tubed, tdo6h 20g on races gas I would say is mediocre (I wouldn't have the proper reference points to make this comparison, but you get the idea).

Case in point, just because someone made a 14b go 10 seconds in the quarter, doesn't mean you will by tuning your 14b up.

Be a little more realistic and see what happens. Even if you end up with 350AWHP (which I have come to find as a respectable end on 20g turbos) and a mid/upper 12 second car, You still have a pretty mean street machine that travels faster than a fart. Not just anyone will be able to pull on you like when you have the 14b.
Click to expand...

The travel faster than a fart killed it for me. I'm looking for a easily obtainable 320ish. I want to feel like I'm riding on rails around the corners. Love back roads.
 
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I don't understand how a turbo smaller than the green, and made by the same company will make the same amount of power on 91 OCT PUMP GAS. The 68hta is a sweet street turbo, spools about as quick as 20g, makes about the same or less peak power (depending on setup and fuel etc...) and depending on which variant of the 20g...
Morecowbell said:
Forced performance 68HTA for DSM
Click to expand...

HX40 is overkill for 400ahwp. HX35 7 blade in a BEP t3 housing (maybe BEP bolt-on DSM) would be a nice way to go, if you are interested in Holsets you don't have to ask questions. There is a thread titles "Holsets results only" its over 10 pages and I know you know how to read. I'm shooting for 400-450 on the FP red 76HTA with meth injection on 93 pump gas. Then I would like to break 500AWHP on e85 (could be a stretch).

You can get a ballpark tune from some of the great freelancers on this site. MY1gDSM and DACOWGOD do great work. The latter has sent TalonDave to the track with great results. Both have MANY VERY SATISFIED customers and could tune circles around any shade tree tuner. Will def get you close to a pro dynotune for way less in cost.
 
Upvote0
GSLENK said:
I don't understand how a turbo smaller than the green, and made by the same company will make the same amount of power on 91 OCT PUMP GAS. The 68hta is a sweet street turbo, spools about as quick as 20g, makes about the same or less peak power (depending on setup and fuel etc...) and depending on which variant of the 20g...


HX40 is overkill for 400ahwp. HX35 7 blade in a BEP t3 housing (maybe BEP bolt-on DSM) would be a nice way to go, if you are interested in Holsets you don't have to ask questions. There is a thread titles "Holsets results only" its over 10 pages and I know you know how to read. I'm shooting for 400-450 on the FP red 76HTA with meth injection on 93 pump gas. Then I would like to break 500AWHP on e85 (could be a stretch).

You can get a ballpark tune from some of the great freelancers on this site. MY1gDSM and DACOWGOD do great work. The latter has sent TalonDave to the track with great results. Both have MANY VERY SATISFIED customers and could tune circles around any shade tree tuner. Will def get you close to a pro dynotune for way less in cost.
Click to expand...
I think ima stick with the 20g then..... Don't really want to have to get a new manifold but I'll do my research n see wat I can do.... Do the freelancers come to you or do u drive to them n they take your car out n tune it?
 
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Chumpaumpalumpa said:
I think ima stick with the 20g then..... Don't really want to have to get a new manifold but I'll do my research n see wat I can do.... Do the freelancers come to you or do u drive to them n they take your car out n tune it?
Click to expand...
You take a log Via ECMlink, send it to (EMAIL) them, they make changes and email you back. You upload to ecu, rinse wash repeat. after about 10 or less exchanges, you should have the car running pretty solidly for DD duty, then after more you will be ready to rip it up. Its called a remote tune. If the car is in perfect running order, it is hardly any different than them driving and logging the car themselves.

If you are on a budgetm and want to upgrade as you go, this is all you need to get going without any headaches:
Injectors
ECMlink
Speed Density bundle
20g
Clutch
AFPR
Walbro 255
 
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Chumpaumpalumpa said:
K I'm set on the turbo what afpr is reputable
Click to expand...

I love the Fuel lab AFPR. Small, looks nice, very fitting friendly. I was initially set on aeromotive (which is excellent also) same prices I would stick with either of those. These as well as injectors are very hardy and a safe bet to buy used.

In fact, the only things I recommend buying new are the clutch, speed density bundle, and Walbro255 (fuel pump). Clutch since you want it to be broken in on your setup (I would feel better that way), and the others are relatively cheap, no point in buying used, (also guarantees they work perfectly, they are not serviceable).
 
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