Morecowbell said:

Can I get some recommendations on the best solder and a good iron for the job and where to buy?

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Any low watt iron will work, I used a cheep harbor freight 35-40 watt model, but it takes a few minutes to heat it up to proper temps.

DO NOT use a really high wattage or high temperature soldering iron, because you might create a voltage spike or it could over heat the wire which can damage it.
you also want to clean the soldering iron every so often so it does not corrode, I like to use a file.
I use 60/40 rosin core solder you can get it at most hardware stores and electronics stores...oh and don't use the acid core solder.

Morecowbell said:

Can I get some recommendations on the best solder and a good iron for the job and where to buy?

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Radio Shack for both for a good product. Small diameter resin core solder and either a pen style iron (they don't get very hot, only about 30 watts) or a gun style that is usually 100 watts, gets hot faster but can also ruin things if you don't know what your doing. I have a gun, my son has a pen style so he can solder but it takes longer to heat the joint up, but is way easier on circuit boards and such and harder to burn things up than my gun is. If you are inside working a pen style is fine. If you are outside and in the wind, the pen will not get the connection hot enough for a good solder joint. That is when he borrows my gun, but it is usually for just connecting to bad wires together, not doing circuit board work like I sometimes do. As for cleaning the tip, just use a damp sponge when it is hot. Make sure you "tin" the tip of either type of iron with solder before using.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Well everyone has there opinions. Being an electrical engineer, I will stick with solder over crimp any day. Wish I had a picture of the finished adaptor, it really is nice once it was completed and I bet I don't have 5 bucks in it. Works great. If I were worried about moisture (and I'm not, don't drive it in bad weather) I'd just use a dab of silicone for moisture proofing. Lots of different ways to do the same thing. Kinda like computer programming ( I do that too).

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First, I have to say that I'm disappointed an engineer does not know how to properly use there, their, they're. Huge pet peeve of mine and automatically decreases credibility in my view.

Second, opinions work well in philosophical applications where tests cannot be conducted to determine fact. They do not work well in engineering applications where testing and trials provides data to direct decision making, not opinions.

Both crimping and soldering have their merits depending on application. In the application above, crimp connection is superior.

And when the crimp fails or comes apart, the maf dies.....If grammer in common speach bothers you then thats your deal (not deel) . Sorry you are butt hurt over nothing. Not really worried about it myself and thats who I have to please so please let it go....I'm way too old to worry about piddly little stuff like that.

I use both a 40 watt electric soldering iron and a butane soldering torch. I love the torch the most, it is one of the best tools in my box. It uses a flame to heat the tip, and comes with a few different tips. You can solder anywhere with these things. Not real good for tight spaces because of the open flame, but super convenient when you need to solder a few wires and don't want to drag the extension chord out. Buy a 3 dollar can of butane and you are set for quite a while. http://www.harborfreight.com/butane-pencil-torch-41169.html.

craig4g63 said:

First, I have to say that I'm disappointed an engineer does not know how to properly use there, their, they're. Huge pet peeve of mine and automatically decreases credibility in my view.

Second, opinions work well in philosophical applications where tests cannot be conducted to determine fact. They do not work well in engineering applications where testing and trials provides data to direct decision making, not opinions.

Both crimping and soldering have their merits depending on application. In the application above, crimp connection is superior.

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Yeah, because using proper grammar on a forum proves that someone knows that they are talking about huh.

YUP....Sorry could't resist. I need to check out the butane soldering torch. Would be a good tool to have in addition to my other electrical equipment. Nice tip!

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

YUP....Sorry could't resist. I need to check out the butane soldering torch. Would be a good tool to have in addition to my other electrical equipment. Nice tip!

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I would highly recommend it. The best part is, you can solder the joint, slide the heat shrink over than use the flame that is about an inch lower than the tip to shrink it. It heats up in about 30-45 seconds also. Definitely got to watch what you are doing though, i have melted insulation on surrounding wires when i wasn't paying as much attention as i should.

Several of the installers I've worked with in the past were using the butane soldering irons. They work great.

I think the crimp vs. solder debate may be getting a little confused because we are talking 2 different applications. If you are talking about having to connect 2 wires(as in you have 2 pigtails to splice together) the solder/heatshrink is the best method for most people. crimps have a little worse connection, depending on what you are using. Butt splice type crimps are generally bad. And then even below that, are the vampire taps people use to join wires. Then wire nuts, which are only slightly better than bubble gum.

The preferred method for some OEMs is a ultrasonic weld which is as strong as a solder joint, but without the negatives. Barrel splice type crimps can still be acceptable. Solder joints are not as desirable.

If you are talking about connecting a wire to a terminal. Crimp yes. Solder not necessary.

And given the choice between soldering 2 pigtails together, or crimping terminals on so that the wire is unbroken, the crimping terminals works better.

bryanwheat said:

I would highly recommend it. The best part is, you can solder the joint, slide the heat shrink over than use the flame that is about an inch lower than the tip to shrink it. It heats up in about 30-45 seconds also. Definitely got to watch what you are doing though, i have melted insulation on surrounding wires when i wasn't paying as much attention as i should.

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Yeah that FIRE on the end would not play well with plastic or wires. I will check into Harbor Freight, since I have their ad's in my Post Office all the time.

Again thanks for all input. Im going to stop by radioshack tonight and get some resin core solder.

Atta boy. Good idea....again!

Here is a picture of my [home made] 1g to 2g maf adapter.