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1G 1g to 2g MAF harness???

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Morecowbell

Proven Member
47
1
Oct 14, 2013
Destin, Florida
I have been searching for a conversion harness to run a 2g MAF and cant find one anywhere. Does anyone still make these. I messaged the guy that used to make them on the galant forums and nothing. I really dont want to cut into my harness and splice one in. Im just weird like that i guess. I always like to be able to change things back to stock without cutting.
 
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Here is how I made mine, they aren't hard just have to find the 1G maf connector from an old 1g maf. Just match up the sensors to each different connector. I think this is what you are looking for. Ebay had a 2g maf connector still on there last week also. :thumb:
 

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Its not hard if you don't find one. If I had more time and the parts I'd make ya one but being a single dad I have a hard time getting daily chores done LOL. Best of luck!!!
 
You don't have to cut a MAF apart to get that connector for the 1G MAF. There is a wire harness version available. If you want to get it used, you can find that connector on the 3000GT, it is used in a harness that goes back to the fuel pump.

There are a few places you can get the 2 connectors you need, new, with the right terminals and seals. JNZ, Magnus, and Extreme can get them. This way you don't have to deal with soldering old wires together. You will need to crimp the terminals though.

Or if you want the full harness done, the guy on the galant forums does respond back from what I hear, it just takes a few days.
 
I tried contacting a handful of people about it including the Galant guy. I believe he didn't get back to me either or maybe I couldn't properly get registered on the forums. I found a guy on a 3000GT forum that supposedly made them. I told him exactly what I needed, paid him, and he sent me an adapter to go from 2g MAS to Evo MAS. Waste of time. I ended up making one myself after I went to a junkyard for the pigtail. It was pretty easy. There's a VFAQ on the wiring that I used.

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I saw that VFAQ. Your addition of the ziptie to keep stress out of the solder joints was a good addition.

But generally, that method of making the patch harness has a lot of issues. You are soldering the old wires(weakening them further). Without the ziptie, the solder joints would actually be carrying the weight of the connector once it is installed. And it is not sealed at all.

That is why I pointed out that you can actually get the proper 1G MAF connector(out of a junked 3000GT for the cheap, or new for $15) complete with wire seals, terminals etc. And if you got the new parts, you can crimp terminals on to new wire, no soldering old wiring needed.
 
I sealed mine up after testing with hot glue. Works great and holds the wires right where I put them. I wouldn't trust crimp fittings on my MAF tho, thats why solder is prefered for a solid connection. I don't see any "weakening" of "old" wire on mine, and really the solder makes it stronger. After testing, I got out the old hot glue gun, filled in the voids on the 1G connector and put some loom from a donor car on it. Looks stock after that. My picture was when I had just finished putting it together, before the glue, loom and before I tested it on the car. Just a tip though if you make one, make it right.
 
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Man if you need any assistance, just hit me up. Glad to help out if I can. :hellyeah:
 
I wouldn't trust crimp fittings on my MAF tho, thats why solder is prefered for a solid connection. I don't see any "weakening" of "old" wire on mine, and really the solder makes it stronger.

No, really the solder makes it weaker. The solder itself is strong. But soldering causes embrittlement in the wire just past the solder joint. AND if there is any vibration, that is where it will shear. That is why OEMs have gone away from soldered joints in the harnesses.

Hot glue works OK to prevent some of that cracking issue. But a good crimped wire with wire seal will be stronger and more moisture resistant. And lighter, smaller, etc.

Water likes to wick down wires. When the wires get pulled, there will be room for moisture to get in between the glue and wire. I've seen that happen a few times, enough so that I wouldn't rely on hot glue for waterproofing. But it is better than nothing.
 
Well everyone has there opinions. Being an electrical engineer, I will stick with solder over crimp any day. Wish I had a picture of the finished adaptor, it really is nice once it was completed and I bet I don't have 5 bucks in it. Works great. If I were worried about moisture (and I'm not, don't drive it in bad weather) I'd just use a dab of silicone for moisture proofing. Lots of different ways to do the same thing. Kinda like computer programming ( I do that too). :hellyeah:
 
Well everyone has there opinions. Being an electrical engineer, I will stick with solder over crimp any day. Wish I had a picture of the finished adaptor, it really is nice once it was completed and I bet I don't have 5 bucks in it. Works great. If I were worried about moisture (and I'm not, don't drive it in bad weather) I'd just use a dab of silicone for moisture proofing. Lots of different ways to do the same thing. Kinda like computer programming ( I do that too). :hellyeah:

I agree about opinions. Being an electrical engineer who has done automotive wiring harness designs for OEMs, as well as worked in aftermarket for a couple of decades, I've seen why what you are describing isn't the right way. But like I said, it is better than the original way shown in the VFAQ.

Moisture concerns shouldn't be just from driving in bad weather. My first job years ago, the company was making motorcycle ignitions(sealed with hot glue, ironically). The ignitions would often fail after people washed the motorcycle. Water would wick down the wires. And the ignition would stop working until it was dried out.
 
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I saw that VFAQ. Your addition of the ziptie to keep stress out of the solder joints was a good addition.

But generally, that method of making the patch harness has a lot of issues. You are soldering the old wires(weakening them further). Without the ziptie, the solder joints would actually be carrying the weight of the connector once it is installed. And it is not sealed at all.

That is why I pointed out that you can actually get the proper 1G MAF connector(out of a junked 3000GT for the cheap, or new for $15) complete with wire seals, terminals etc. And if you got the new parts, you can crimp terminals on to new wire, no soldering old wiring needed.

You're correct. I actually did put silicone onto the solder points to prevent corrosion and any added stress but I took this picture before that. Had I known about the availability of the connector at the time, I would have gone that route. However, this was free since all I had to do was cut apart the stock MAF. If it gives me problems in the future, I'll either try to locate the connector you're talking about or just cut the harness.
 
Cant fault ya for that, you got it right. I didn't see the need in my car to worry about the moistue "wick", which you are also right on. Mine is sitting right behind my air filter so I'm not worrying about the water getting to it, its in a very hard place to see any moisture. The glue was more to hold the wiring in place, like you said, so that it doesn't wiggle, but really the thing sits in such a good spot, I don't know that it ever moves really. I soldered since it was the MAF, and I prefer it, but I am definately old school, especially compaired to most of the DSM'ers on here. I like both described methods tho. :thumb: I do have crimp fittings on my fans so I do use them, but in that instance, I wanted to be able to "plug and play" also so the fans have male/female crimp plugs, even an extra set if I want to add another fan. I've had to build my own cars since, well my first car back in the way early '70's, so I've had to engineer many things, this was just the latest creation. If I were doing it for a living or for others, I would seal the connections for sure. Nice to know that the plugs, which I assume are watertite, are available. I didn't know that, good info. Thx!
 
You're correct. I actually did put silicone onto the solder points to prevent corrosion and any added stress but I took this picture before that. Had I known about the availability of the connector at the time, I would have gone that route..

Judging from the vfaq, people didn't know that the connector was available on the 3000GT. I just found out about that not too long ago. And the people that had sourced batches of new ones, weren't really selling them direct to end users until recently.

If I were doing it for a living or for others, I would seal the connections for sure. Nice to know that the plugs, which I assume are watertite, are available. I didn't know that, good info. Thx!

They are water resistant fairly well. It uses the same wire seals as the harness side of the 1G MAF connector, so it should be good. If you went with a junkyard one, just make sure to leave the unused wires in the connector, to seal it. An open hole may as well leave the entire connector unsealed.

The biggest issue with soldering, usually, is the quality of the solder joint. I've seen LOTS of people that don't know how to solder mess that up. You both sound like you know what you are doing. But I've seen so many mechanics make cold solder joints. Crimps can be a little tricky too, but easier for many than soldering.
 
Can the harness be found in a dodge stealth? I was at the local pick-n-pull today where all that they had was a stealth r/t. I skimmed through the extreme website without any luck. I just might call them for that part. 15 dollars is cheaper than driving around looking for a 3000gt.
 
Can the harness be found in a dodge stealth? I was at the local pick-n-pull today where all that they had was a stealth r/t. I skimmed through the extreme website without any luck. I just might call them for that part. 15 dollars is cheaper than driving around looking for a 3000gt.

It should be the same. And I may have had the location wrong. I think the 8 pin MAF connector is on the injector subharness on the 3000GT. Possibly the injector resistor as well. The one going to the pump is(I think) the 6 pin that matches the NT MAF. I haven't had to pull them apart myself, just going off pics/second hand info on the connectors.
 
ok thanks... good to know. Ive seen them cross referenced before, but I wasnt sure about the similarites between the two models.
 
I definitely need to improve on my soldering skills. Ill do some more reading on soldering before I attempt the harness. Ill just spend a couple hours soldering random stuff in my garage.

You shouldn't need to do any practicing. Soldering is stupid easy. The biggest problem people have is not getting the wire/solder hot enough to properly make the connection ending up with a weak joint. If the wire is old a little extra flux on the wire will help drastically. The right solder and a good iron is mandatory. I prefer the leaded solder over the unleaded, LOL.
 
Try the E85 solder...:p
 
I just made a 1g to 2g adapter for myself, and I don't recommend hacking apart a 1g mas to make the adapter, I clipped out a similar to 1g mas wire pigtail connector out of a 1997-2001 montero, IIRC it was hooked up to some emissions solenoids.

I also did a pretty good job heat shrinking and soldering it together.
of course I have like 8 years of experience working with soldering things. I don't recommend crimping wires here [everyone has their own opinion] because they can come loose or flat out break, so if you plan on taking this on and off a few times, use the heat shrink and solder.

Some Tips for anyone attempting to make these: have a bowl of water handy to help cure/cool the solder, It helps speed up the soldering process, make sure all soldered parts are dried,
[BIG DUH] don't forget to put heat shrink on before twisting and soldering the wires together.

I"ll insert a photo of my finished product here I think it turned out great.
 
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