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1G new 1g with mods new to dsm

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nodaysoff92

Proven Member
51
0
Jun 15, 2014
Detroit, Michigan
I just recently got a 1G Talon with a bunch of mods rebuilt 5 speed. First and foremost don't say search because I did already just want inside information as well.

That aside this is my first turbo car. It has Big 16g turbo
These mods
(1/2) Buscher racing exhaust $1200
Walbro 255 $200
550 cc injectors $150
Electric boost controller $500
Bc 272 cams $450
Big 16 $250
Fmic $300
3" gm Maf $50
And (2/2) translator $150
Stage 2 clutch and rebuilt 4g63

Now my question is what to look out for with this being my summer DD
Look out for boost? Leaks? Air/fuel ratio. What's good? What's bad? Shaft play? Overheating? Big boost? Low boost? Etc etc things to know, spot, look for, fix if need be. Sounds to listen for. The turbo no nos and do's don't's . I know cars but not turbo tech as well as I should having a built car. Any replies will be received with gratitude no trolling plz.
 
I just recently got a 1G Talon with a bunch of mods rebuilt 5 speed. First and foremost don't say search because I did already just want inside information as well.

That aside this is my first turbo car. It has Big 16g turbo
These mods
(1/2) Buscher racing exhaust $1200
Walbro 255 $200
550 cc injectors $150
Electric boost controller $500
Bc 272 cams $450
Big 16 $250
Fmic $300
3" gm Maf $50
And (2/2) translator $150
Stage 2 clutch and rebuilt 4g63

Now my question is what to look out for with this being my summer DD
Look out for boost? Leaks? Air/fuel ratio. What's good? What's bad? Shaft play? Overheating? Big boost? Low boost? Etc etc things to know, spot, look for, fix if need be. Sounds to listen for. The turbo no nos and do's don't's . I know cars but not turbo tech as well as I should having a built car. Any replies will be received with gratitude no trolling plz.
Again I have looked up much about turbochargers in general. Tech, ratios, what's good and bad but want inside info from turbo gods and wizards. Btw DSM for the win I had a Camaro and TA before this nothing is compared to the DSM totally different and enthusiat cars love it so far the few and proud.
 
You are going to need to tune after anything that would affect your air fuel ratio.
Injectors?
Retune.
Moar boost?
Retune.
Bigger turbo?
Retune.
Changed random parts and for some reason the car runs funny?
Retune probably.
Cams?
Definitely retune.

If you are going to build the short block, look into something bigger. Holsets are nice turbos too.
 
Ha ha! I had a 500 hp nova and switched to this platform. I can tell you this is way easier to run then carbs. I run an ostrich 2.0 and sweed density. There's going to be a ton of people saying to go with link. Do your research and make your decision. I run open loop and love it. Currently I run 850 cc injectors and a bastard 20 g turbo. The hp est from air flow and fuel comes out to 386 hp. You have a great base to start with. Save some jack and check out dsmecu.com
 
Do a boost leak test before you go out on a fun run, or raise the boost any, because leaking boost is no fun at all.

also check your spark plugs condition too.
if you don't know when it was last done, flush out the cooling system, and do all the basic maintenance that may have been overlooked by the previous owner.

Inspect the crankshaft pulley, if it's an old stock unit it could be on it's way out, check if the rubber outside ring is worn down at all.

obviously inspect the timing belt/pulleys/tensioner for damage or wear.
check your accessory drive belts.
do a compression test [when you replace/inspect spark plugs].

also [if you don't already have these] you might want to look into getting an accurate wide-band o2 gauge and dsmlink.
 
Thanks people getting back at 4GEEBUS63 around what should the air/fuel be. And what's good boost to roll around in right now steady at 12. Can turn up to about 27psi.

And hotrod this is a hell of a platform I always wanted a sleeper can't look past dsm. I was thinking ignition next plugs wires maybe? But now think I will ecu tune dyno. No clue what my numbers are so should start with that.
 
Good points Mitsubishikid. Will certainly do that. I figured belts be a big factor with extra hp past stock.
Thanks
 
1. Maintenance, as others have mentioned.
2. The Big 16g and EvoIII Big 16G are stock turbos that flow 38 and 42 lbs/min respectively. This is where you power comes from. Unless Im mistaken the FP Green is a 55 lbs/min turbo. You dont need this now.
3. Keep your setup, Im sure youve seen others with similar mods running 300+whp and high 12s at the track. All cars are different but you have a good build going.
 
I see you mentioning AFRs but I dont see a wideband mentioned, or logger. You should be running the rich stock maps, and lean out only Wide Open Throttle a bit The Maf Translator is good for beginner tuning. But you need a wideband and logger.

Is the MAF before turbo or in the upper IC pipe?
 
Thanks jondoedsm true of maintenance. Most likely stick with this tune til runs splendid.
The maf is upper ic pipe. And runs pretty lean afr at stock but haven't tested it much .

Just couldn't pass up on it price was unreal with this amount of work.
 
Yea man congrats on the purchase. I was asking about the MAF placement because there is a condition known as "wandering" tune when placed in blow thru mode due to rapid temperature changes and the nature of the sensor.
Draw thru mode has been shown to just as, if not more, accurate than blow thru.

How do you know you are running lean? Do you have a AFR gauge and/or modded ecu? Jus tryna picture your setup, tuning wise.
 
Ah see that's the inside info looking for thanks and yes I have a AFR gauge. And me as well since know nothing about tuning turbos. Much appreciated.
 
When the hell did anyone ever build a $1200 exhaust system for a 1G? Unless it's titanium.....



Spoiler alert- it isn't.


Now my question is what to look out for with this being my summer DD
Look out for boost leaks?
I'm willing to bet that 90-95% of turbo DSM's have boost leaks somewhere in the system. Just bite the bullet and do a boost leak test....this is Step 1 when diagnosing a performance issue, or before you start tuning as a boost leak will absolutely ruin your ability to get consistent tune.
Air/fuel ratio. What's good? What's bad?
Idle/cruising as close to 14.7 as you can get....probably better to be lean here than rich if you're unsure what you're doing so you don't risk dumping unburnt fuel into the crankcase.

Wide-open throttle, 10.5-11.5 is pretty safe. Don't mess with the tune unless you have a way to log knock.
Shaft play?
Pretty simple- if there is any present, the turbo needs serviced.
Overheating?
180-195* while cruising is ideal, but chances are it'll be over 200. You don't want to exceed the boiling point if at all possible. These cars have an excellent cooling system- the biggest problem is the addition of FMIC's and the removal of factory ducting which ruins cooling efficiency.
Big boost? Low boost?
Low boost until you get an idea of what you're doing. A no-knock 20psi pull is faster than a knock-laden 25psi pull, and it's a hell of a lot easier on the engine.
 
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Lol that's just the numbers he gave me I didn't buy any of these mods just the spread sheet of what it came with. And bought car for SPOILER ALERT just 2000$.
 
Get a different turbo.

That there 16G is too small.
FP Greens are fun.
Puh-leeze.

I've had an FPGreen on a past car and it's a great turbo, but the 16g is no slouch at all and there's no reason for him to get a bigger turbo.
I'm currently on a plain 16g on a stock motor with bc 272s also and my car has ran 11.9@116mph. Half ass street tuned myself. I'm only on 20psi as well, still plenty of potential in the turbo. I beat on my car routinely too and it pulls great all the time.
 
Is the car AWD? if so change the t-case fluid and rear diff, save future headaches, this goes under maintenance, just saying specifically, you don't want to mess with a t-case if you don't have to.
 
When the hell did anyone ever build a $1200 exhaust system for a 1G? Unless it's titanium.....



Spoiler alert- it isn't.



I'm willing to bet that 90-95% of turbo DSM's have boost leaks somewhere in the system. Just bite the bullet and do a boost leak test....this is Step 1 when diagnosing a performance issue, or before you start tuning as a boost leak will absolutely ruin your ability to get consistent tune.

Idle/cruising as close to 14.7 as you can get....probably better to be lean here than rich if you're unsure what you're doing so you don't risk dumping unburnt fuel into the crankcase.

Wide-open throttle, 10.5-11.5 is pretty safe. Don't mess with the tune unless you have a way to log knock.

Pretty simple- if there is any present, the turbo needs serviced.

180-195* while cruising is ideal, but chances are it'll be over 200. You don't want to exceed the boiling point if at all possible. These cars have an excellent cooling system- the biggest problem is the addition of FMIC's and the removal of factory ducting which ruins cooling efficiency.

Low boost until you get an idea of what you're doing. A no-knock 20psi pull is faster than a knock-laden 25psi pull, and it's a hell of a lot easier on the engine.


Thanks for info guy says has tune for about 12psi at 50% throttle and 24psi at 100%. Definitely will do leak test as instructed. And AFR is at 14.8. On start on idle.
 
Puh-leeze.

I've had an FPGreen on a past car and it's a great turbo, but the 16g is no slouch at all and there's no reason for him to get a bigger turbo.
I'm currently on a plain 16g on a stock motor with bc 272s also and my car has ran 11.9@116mph. Half ass street tuned myself. I'm only on 20psi as well, still plenty of potential in the turbo. I beat on my car routinely too and it pulls great all the time.

Sweet I was thinking high 12s for mine .Maybe tune and forge get low 11s. Let me know how it goes for you.
 
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