I have went through 3 crank in the past 5 months, each in a different engine, but all three cranks are done already and are trash. Orielies has a reconditioned crank and also dsmgraveyard carries a reconditioned crank, but I am wondering will they hold up or are they a waste of money? My current hp goal is about 450, and I am in the process of rebuilding a engine in excess of what I will be running to avoid problems. I have read that the oem crank is ok for 500 to 600hp, is this true? If anyone knows where to get a oem crank please let me know.

Also I am still learning so bear with me, but is high compression 10:1 and low is 8.3:1 or vice versa? If I was looking at running 30psi, would 9:1 be ok or should it be lower or higher? Also, there is probably a post about this but how do you know how much timing to advance or retard? What does advancing and retarding intake and exhaust cams do exactly?

What exactly is happening to the crankshafts? To damage a crankshaft that quickly there's either an issue with the oiling system or the oil clearances aren't right. The factory 4g63 crankshafts are VERY strong, arguably the strongest available for our engines. I myself have put 700hp+ through a stock crank...

The "reconditioned" cranks are typically a machined factory crank. However, your best bet is finding a virgin stock crank and have it inspected/cut by a competent machinist. Proper assembly and oiling is absolutely crucial.

Did they use ARP studs on the bottom? Did they line hone the block?
As wes says the oem is good for untold amounts of horsepower: they're brutes basically. Good to go with stock
If you cant find a stock then i believe Manley and another co i cant think of off the top of my head, anyway they both build good proven cranks. Stock stroke as well as other variations.
Where are they failing? Main bearings? Thrust play? Rod bearings? What exactly is happening. Go from there. I still say the next crank installed that block needs to be line honed.

9:1 is fine for compression. Higher even is ok but i would only do so if you are comfortable tuning and have access to e85. Just my opinion, people go 10.5:1 on pump gas im sure, so i dont want to piss that handful of guys off. It can mean more power, true, but it can mean a fast death of a motor if you dont know how to tune for higher compression.

Cam timing.... : read. Google dohc cam timing. Or 4g63 cam timing. Thats out of my realm....... to this point i havent played with cam timing. Yet.


Edit: Are you putting in the rotating assemblies?? If so, try letting a machine shop do that part for ya. Only an extra couple hundred.

I have had 3 different engines completely and crank is shot in all three. Luckily one of the cranks is only messed up because someone cross threaded the flywheel bolts to it, so that block I know for sure is good but crank is trash. Another engine I had blew out the balance shaft plug and dumped all the oil while I was driving without me noticing. When I noticed oil pressure had dropped it was already to late. That crank has a bearing actually locked onto the crank that I cannot even hammer off and all the journals have some deep grooves in them. The 3rd engine was a 6 bolt I bought with a tsi awd that I was told had a fresh rebuild on, unfortunately for me I was lied to and it had a rebuild but they used all ebay crap, didnt measure anything and used wrong size bearings, no gaskets, and the piston pins were too big causing excessive resistance on the rod bearing, oh and the oil pump was locked up. All in all after 3 days of driving, only 15 miles, it threw a rod bearing and after I had the crank maged was told it was cracked.

After all this it basically comes down to me not wanting to buy any used parts from anyone unless they have been with this site for a long time. The engine with the cross threaded bolts only got taken apart because my adjustable cam gears had slipped and the valves smacked the pistons. I tore it apart to replace pistons and valves only to that the crank needed to be replaced during to fhe cross threaded bolts. At that point I bought the evo 3 engine that blew the balance shaft seal, then bought the talon after that. Now I am just trying to rebuild my eclipse engine so I know everything is done right and so I dont have to worry about it.

Just so I am clear though, the cranks are not failing in the same engine, I just went through 3 different engine and the cranks in each engine is shot.

Oooooh. Damn brother. Ya, sounds like you just had bad luck. Or what i call "owning a DSM" . 4th times a charm? Man idk, if i were you id go with a Manley crank and call it a day or Eagle(thats the one i forgot about). Either one will be perfect for you and you will KNOW, god damnit, that the crank is GOOD! Jeez, i bi*** and moan constantly about my dsm, you really have had a run of bad luck.
I feel for ya. Just get a new crank, not cut, polished, anything. Just new.
Best wishes, hope shes up n running next time for more than a few miles.

I was leaning more towards eagle if I were to go aftermarket. Is oem crank 88mm stroke or 100mm? On dsmgraveyard I found both strokes for oem reconditioned crank. I want to stay with oem stroke though.

Eagle cranks are all over the place tolerance wise. Go to ecology and pull a good stock crank, have it cleaned and polished, and be on your way,

Last time I was there they didnt have any gst or gsx, just the 420a engines. Ill try again this week though and check. Maybe I wont go with eagle crank now. If I were going to buy eagle would it be better to just buy brand new oem crank then? Just in case I cannot find a crank to use.

There are 2-3 1g 7 bolts there right now. Same crank.

2.0 crank is 88mm stroke
2.4 crank is 100 mm stroke

I have built several 4g63s with used OEM cranks and got them polished without issue. The one in my current motor had some ridges you could feel with your fingernail and I had it polished. I've had no issues after 20k miles of pure abuse! Measure your bearing clearances and run the appropriate viscosity oil!

Get an oil pressure gauge!

These were three different engines entirely. Different parts on each of them. As I explained above, the evo engine blew out the balance shaft seal, the 6 bolt spun a rod due to it being rebuilt wrong, and my original engine was only tore apart because adjustable cam gear slipped causing valves to hit pistons. The valves and pistons look fine in that engine but I am replacing them anyway just to make sure. Crank in my original engine only had a problem at the flywheel bolt holes which are stripped, nothing wrong with oil pressure or journals.

As long as you have a good, tried and true machinist go over a used crank and can definitively say it doesn't need cut, just needs polished, you are good to go.

Donnie: I have no first hand experience w eagle cranks. First time ive heard someone say they have sketchy QA/quirky tolerances. Manley the same? I ask, cause eventually if i keep dsm'ing i will need a crank one day i would assume.

I've had my hands on a lot of Eagle cranks. Very rarely do we come across one with any issues. If I had to guess I'd say the frequency of a defect is around 1% which is pretty close to other companies as well. Eagle has had a problem with public perception for years. They were the first "big" company to sell offshore components, so they took a bashing and it's been an uphill battle ever since.

If you're in the market for an OEM crank I have a handful of 6 and 7 bolt cranks that have been recon'd. That includes hot tank, clean and magnaflux, shot peen, polish, mic and final wash. They're all std/std. As always, I'll meet or beat anyone elses prices. If you decide to go aftermarket I can also hook you up with a Manley or Eagle crank.

JAM to set the record straight. Thats kind of what i thought. BC cams have had a horrible rep and seems a few users are making good numbers on them. Funny how a one-time story can cause a chain reaction of "part hate" . Thats how the interwebs work i suppose.

JacksonAuto said:

I've had my hands on a lot of Eagle cranks. Very rarely do we come across one with any issues. If I had to guess I'd say the frequency of a defect is around 1% which is pretty close to other companies as well. Eagle has had a problem with public perception for years. They were the first "big" company to sell offshore components, so they took a bashing and it's been an uphill battle ever since.

If you're in the market for an OEM crank I have a handful of 6 and 7 bolt cranks that have been recon'd. That includes hot tank, clean and magnaflux, shot peen, polish, mic and final wash. They're all std/std. As always, I'll meet or beat anyone elses prices. If you decide to go aftermarket I can also hook you up with a Manley or Eagle crank.

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How much for an oem crank?

boost97gst said:

. Funny how a one-time story can cause a chain reaction of "part hate" . Thats how the interwebs work i suppose.

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Right! This is usually how it goes- "My buddies' friends' cousins' moms' uncle told me that a friend of a guy works with had an Eagle crank that was no good so I'll never use one because they're all junk!"

JacksonAuto said:

Right! This is usually how it goes- "My buddies' friends' cousins' moms' uncle told me that a friend of a guy works with had an Eagle crank that was no good so I'll never use one because they're all junk!"

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How is the balancing on the eagle/manley cranks? I've always heard they needed additional balancing straight from the box.

I've never seen any crank that was acceptable out of the box. That's why we balance every assembly that goes out the door.