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1997 GSX Issue Bucking a Running Like Crap.

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l3igl3ang

15+ Year Contributor
541
2
Aug 10, 2005
ft smith, Arkansas
1st off this problem dose it no matter if im driving it like a N/t or Boosting. Has the same results. Im pretty sure its not a issue from the mods on it as its a issue with the car its self. The car will start and run but runs like crap and when it gets warmer it gets worse. First day we took it out after its been parked for a long time we couldn't even pull a hill with it. U push the gas and it would just bog down and sputter and buck. It reminds me of a weedeater I had it would idle and as soon as u gave it gas it cut out and miss and die. The car has a a/r .60 turbo on it and 660cc injectors and intake mani and FMIC as well as dsm link and is not tuned ATM but when I get the car straight I will put the 1100ccs jecters back on and use the turn I got save when I had it tuned.

So do u think it could be a timing issue like jumped a tooth some how? or that round sensor that's on the cam gears wonder if that could be the issue? I have changed the fuel pump but no luck its a wally 155 I believe that's what it said.

here's some videos of it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVzMXMM_AbI&feature=youtu.be
at 4 and 6 secs u notice it cuts out

and that problem gets really bad more I drive it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuYpWIR7luA&feature=youtu.be

here's when first stating up! yeah I know my air filter is off I took it off to rule out it wasn't stopped up.
 
Since you have link, post a log.

(it would take a lot of visible clog in the filter to not flow at cruise. if the filter was even remotely clean, it's not the problem and I wouldn't risk driving around without once since there's a lot of loose debris in the engine bay that gets moved around with airflow and can damage the MAS and/or compressor.)
 
Well where do i start, LOL

Sounds like you have a lot of things going on.

First off fix that exhaust leak, sounds horrible!

You state that you have DSM link, have you hooked it up and made sure you have all the settings correct for injector size, etc...?

have you done a boost leak test? It really seems like you have a leak either in the IC piping, or at the intake manifold. Boost leaks will definitely cause the brick wall effect. Have you checked all vacuum lines and leaks as well? I would definitely do a boost leak test and listen for leaks. You will probably be surprised.

You asked if we "think" it could have jumped a tooth, have you checked your timing marks?

Your profile doesnt say if you have a wideband at all either. Do you have one by chance
 
If you're worried about the timing being off, check it. You say that it is not tuned, so maybe that's your problem. What is your coolant temp sensor reading in link? It could be bad which is telling your car it is colder than it really is, therefore injecting too much fuel and causing it to bog and stutter.
 
So the car isn't tuned, is running 650's, and is running like crap? What am i missing. This is the 9 thousand dollar gsx right.
 
So the car isn't tuned, is running 650's, and is running like crap? What am i missing.

Guess your missing the part where it runs like crap with the tune so lets see that tells me.that tune has nothing to do with it.

It runs same way reguardless with or with out tune.

I will check the coolent temp and timming and get a dsm link log as well

So far I checked fuel pump. Spark. I changed maf from parts car same result and also did boost leak test
 
Guess your missing the part where it runs like crap with the tune so lets see that tells me.that tune has nothing to do with it.

Ok, you are obviously way smarter than i will ever be so you should just be able to fix it yourself right. As i've stated in the past be humble and you will get good advice on this forum. You are going to need all the help you can get. How about you check the timing belt, do a compression test, test for boost leaks, test fuel pressure, check for cel's, and so on. Diagnosis is very simple, you just have to be willing to get your hands dirty and not expect everyone to do it for you with out first helping yourself.
 
You saids it'd the first time out since being parked for a long time. Gas could be bad which would deff cause your symptoms.
 
I did compression test as well as new gas and it has no CEL lights on but if it was something that simple I wouldn't be here asking for help LOL. and o yeah I also took it to a performance shop right before I parked it and he couldn't figure it out either and he works on boosted cars for a living.

compression is 145 on 1st and 150 on the other 3 cylinders

Well where do i start, LOL

Sounds like you have a lot of things going on.

First off fix that exhaust leak, sounds horrible!

You state that you have DSM link, have you hooked it up and made sure you have all the settings correct for injector size, etc...?

have you done a boost leak test? It really seems like you have a leak either in the IC piping, or at the intake manifold. Boost leaks will definitely cause the brick wall effect. Have you checked all vacuum lines and leaks as well? I would definitely do a boost leak test and listen for leaks. You will probably be surprised.

You asked if we "think" it could have jumped a tooth, have you checked your timing marks?

Your profile doesnt say if you have a wideband at all either. Do you have one by chance

No wideband eather that I know of but wideband is for boosted cars only so shouldn't the car run right just driving around like a normal car? W/o romping on the gas.
 
I did compression test as well as new gas and it has no CEL lights on but if it was something that simple I wouldn't be here asking for help LOL. and o yeah I also took it to a performance shop right before I parked it and he couldn't figure it out either and he works on boosted cars for a living.


No wideband eather that I know of but wideband is for boosted cars only so shouldn't the car run right just driving around like a normal car? W/o romping on the gas.

Well, that won't be the first or last "performance shop" who doesn't know what they're doing. :|

Also.. You have a boosted car! Sooooo.... You should have a wideband if you want to accurately measure your air/fuel ratio. ;) These are the simple things we are talking about. Help us, help you. :)
 
I've had that same buckling and in my experience it was caused by two things, one my maf harness and two a very well concealed boost leak.

try using carb cleaner and spraying your maf connector, and check to see there's no cut or exposed wires from the harnesses in question. and perform a boost leak test.:thumb:

. and o yeah I also took it to a performance shop right before I parked it and he couldn't figure it out either and he works on boosted cars for a living.
ROFL
Anyone with a paint brush is also an artist.
There are more dummies with "performance shop" then ever before. I mean this in general, not that your guy who works on boosted cars for a living doesn't know what he is doing.:sneaky:
 
Ok I will check the MAF harness out and I got some electronics cleaner for cars I will spray it. And on DSM link I loaded it up and went to display and to Graph but nothings there no line grids or nothing is that normal? or do I need to do something else to get a log on dsm link.
 
I did compression test as well as new gas and it has no CEL lights on but if it was something that simple I wouldn't be here asking for help LOL. and o yeah I also took it to a performance shop right before I parked it and he couldn't figure it out either and he works on boosted cars for a living.

compression is 145 on 1st and 150 on the other 3 cylinders



No wideband eather that I know of but wideband is for boosted cars only so shouldn't the car run right just driving around like a normal car? W/o romping on the gas.

I couldnt tell by the video (at work right now) but are you running an AFPR? I couldnt remember from your profile. I post from DSMLink would help a lot.

The video really only shows either fuel cut or a boost leak. When you did the boost leak test did you do it on the compressor housing of the turbo? Did you spray soapy water to see if there where any small leaks? How many pounds did you put into the system to test for leaks?

Is that exhaust leak coming from the manifold to the head? I would replace that in a jiffy but thats just my 2 cents, LOL

The coolant temp sensor might be a plausible problem but I would rule out all the basic problems before you start throwing parts at it.

Your "mechanic" might want to look at finding a new job as well... shouldnt be that hard of a problem to diagnosis and fix...:confused:
 
Ok I will check the MAF harness out and I got some electronics cleaner for cars I will spray it. And on DSM link I loaded it up and went to display and to Graph but nothings there no line grids or nothing is that normal? or do I need to do something else to get a log on dsm link.

Have you recently disconnected or reset your Eprom / DSMLink? I forgot to save it one time, pulled the battery, and when i hooked it back up, I forgot I had to change all my injector settings, etc... before I could get the car to run correctly.
 
seems like the exhaust leak just started here since I started try to get it running again. I did the boost leak on the turbo I think I put around 60 psi in it. I know it had a few big leaks which I fixed. I don't have a tune on it right now cause I was trying to fix the problem first. It did this same problem when it was tuned. Its tuned to use e85 gas so if i can fix the problem I was going to throw the 1100cc injector's back on and load up the tune. I never had the car tuned on pump gas just e85. Able Racing out of Oklahoma city tuned it and boy was it Expensive costed $900 first time and lke $1100 2nd time. They through in some parts like the injectors and cams but most was just cost of labor so I really don't want to go back there.

And with fuel cut this would happen even driving around with out boosting? and what would cause fuel cut?
 
I don't have a tune on it right now cause I was trying to fix the problem first. It did this same problem when it was tuned. Its tuned to use e85 gas so if i can fix the problem I was going to throw the 1100cc injector's back on and load up the tune. I never had the car tuned on pump gas just e85.

Are you running pump gas with that E85 tune? Did you replace the 1100's with 650's without adjusting the injector scaling?

If yes to either/both then I guarantee your tune is the problem. You can't just go switching parts and fuel type without adjusting the tune, the ECU still thinks your running 1100's with Ethanol when your actually running 650's and Gas....

I would suggest loading the stock fuel and timing maps. Then scale the injector settings for the proper injectors. There's tons of write-ups on these forums showing how to do exactly that with DSMLink.
 
No im useing 91 oct now I only used e85 when I had it on tune and with the 1100cc jectors but i thought maybe it was the e85 tune so input the 650ccs back on and went back to pump gas but the car dose the same problem on both e85 and 91 octaine so thats why I belive its something with the car and not the mods
 
seems like the exhaust leak just started here since I started try to get it running again. I did the boost leak on the turbo I think I put around 60 psi in it. I know it had a few big leaks which I fixed. I don't have a tune on it right now cause I was trying to fix the problem first. It did this same problem when it was tuned. Its tuned to use e85 gas so if i can fix the problem I was going to throw the 1100cc injector's back on and load up the tune. I never had the car tuned on pump gas just e85. Able Racing out of Oklahoma city tuned it and boy was it Expensive costed $900 first time and lke $1100 2nd time. They through in some parts like the injectors and cams but most was just cost of labor so I really don't want to go back there.

And with fuel cut this would happen even driving around with out boosting? and what would cause fuel cut?

60 psi?!?! 60...??? Someone correct me if I am wrong but at 60 psi, i would imagine all your couplers would blow off, possibly damage throttle body seals and turbo seals? That is a MASSIVE amount of pressure to have in your intake system.

I kind of get a sense that maybe you are not doing some of these tests correctly? When you do a boost leak test, you should be really listening and spending some time checking all your connections, PCV valve, throttle body, intake manifold, etc... Are you really making sure you dont have a massive leak somewhere? Your symptoms are either a tuning issue with DSM Link (which most likely it is) or a boost leak / fuel cut issue.

Here is a great thread on fuel cut:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/186971-what-fuel-cut.html

Can you post a log from Link yet?
 
im not sure what psi was I did it till I started hearing leaks and then I stoped the tested and started looking for the leaks. And I cant get no log from dsm link when I goto it theres nothing there. The log should be under display correct? or is it some where else on dsm link.
 
Have you used DSMLink before? Do you have a solid connection between your laptop and the OBD2 plug? Here is a link from ECMTuning that has a lot of great info:

http://www.dsmlink.com/wiki/DSMLink

The only real way we can help you instead of guessing is to see a log from DSMLink while you are driving and having the problems.
 
I had a similar issue on a 1g and it turned out to be some pins in the ECU were switched, not sure if same scenario pertains to 2gs but I'd imagine that could be an issue too.
 
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