tensioner is brand new, belt has only a few miles on it but is a couple years old. im a mechanic by trade so its not the lack of knowledge i have, but i just cant seem to get it perfect. i was hoping some has seen this before and why its doing this.

Everything look good to me. Just make sure #1 is at TDC then you are good to go.

Rotate the crank clockwise 6 time to make sure everything is cleared

Did you install the belt over the cams then over the idler and oil pump then crank and so on? Do the cam marks make a straight line with the block and are your intake and exhaust doles at 12o'clock? They look alittle off in the pic but hard to tell. The crank mark looks pretty good if you've installed the belt correctly and your cams are correct then you should be fine. This is why I like the jay racing timing tool kit! For me it gets perfect timing jobs everytime with ease!

Rotate the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley so that the pinholes are under the center bolt. its on the VFAQ Timing Belt VFAQ step 32 hope it helps.

rotate the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley so that the pinholes are under the center bolt. its on the VFAQTiming Belt VFAQ#step 32 hope it helps

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No no no. It depends upon the year. Op has it correct. Marks are correct except oil pump.

pauleyman said:

rotate the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley so that the pinholes are under the center bolt. its on the VFAQTiming Belt VFAQ#step 32 hope it helps

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No no no. It depends upon the year. Op has it correct. Marks are correct except oil pump.

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He has no balance shafts.

Yes it was installed on cams then idler then oil, crank and tensioner. I just didnt like how the pointer wasnt exactly in the center of the groove. And since b shaft is eliminated that would make oil pump mark not important, right?

boosted1stgen said:

Yes it was installed on cams then idler then oil, crank and tensioner. I just didnt like how the pointer wasnt exactly in the center of the groove. And since b shaft is eliminated that would make oil pump mark not important, right?

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Oil pump sprocket doesn't matter if the balance shaft is removed.

boosted1stgen said:

I just didnt like how the pointer wasnt exactly in the center of the groove.

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I have found that sometimes the trigger plate has a little play/slop in it, and can rotate a little left and right, when the crank gear sprocket for the main timing belt has been taken off. Which puts the mark on the trigger plate advanced or retarded a little and makes it seem that the timing is off.

If you want to know for sure there is a little mark/circular timing mark on the crank gear balance shaft sprocket behind the trigger plate that you can align up with the notch/timing mark on the trigger plate so that it falls aligned/centered up with the bottom dip/bend in the timing mark on the trigger plate.

Wish I had a picture of it. But here is your pick with it highlighted behind the trigger plate on the end of the crank shaft balance shaft sprocket tooth.

Head or Deck cut?

Thank you linksys42 i didnt even think to look to see if there was a mark there. And yes previously i had fallen asleep in the car with it running and a water pump that was starting to fail. And it overheated so bad that it lost compression and wouldnt even start anymore, had all new valves put in with a valve job and head resurfaced, but cant for the life of me remember how much material they had to take off.

How much would have to be takin off to effect it

No problem. Take a look at this thread by bogusSVO to answer your question on head thickness/cut.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-measure-4g63-cylinder-head-thickness.html