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Resolved Noob here, researching Turbo Upgrade to 300hpish?

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Anthony_2gnt

Anthony_2gnt

Proven Member
98
2
Nov 28, 2012
Nampa, Idaho
Hey everyone, been around for awhile, searching the forums, and have never really posted anything. I currently have a mostly stock '99 rs that I am loathing that I bought a couple years back (The reason I have joined this forum :thumb:). This summer I will be leaving for 3 months to work, and am going to come back with a fair chunk of change. Will be selling my rs, to buy a stock gs-t or GSX if I could find one within 300 miles. My ultimate goal is to get a 2g up to around 310ish Hp as a daily driver. Willing to spend some cash on quality parts, but I'm sure the parts I have compiled are way more expensive/over the top than necessary. Looking for some info on what else I will need other than these:
AFPR: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$69

FMIC KIT: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$708

Injen Air Intake Sytem: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=227&cat=83&page=1
$225

Apexi 3'' Downpipe to delete Cat: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=96&cat=92&page=1
$335

Apexi 3'' exhaust, with adapter so I can bolt to cat for emissions :banghead:
https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=92&cat=91&page=1
$683

Not sure about the Injectors, I was looking at 950cc so that I could always upgrade :p
https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=52&cat=59&page=1
$325

Walboro 255 pump with kit: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=35&cat=58&page=1
$102

FIC Fuel rail: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=1287&cat=60&page=1
$134

ECM Link: ECMTuning, Inc.
$545

FP Exhaust Manifold: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$275

Gauge Pillar with 3 gauges A/F,Boost,Oil Pressure: 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Custom Gauge Package
$347

Balance Shafte Eliminator: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=365&cat=0&page=1
$67

Small 16g Turbo: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=75&cat=166&page=1
$1100 new, want to get one to rebuild.

2g Turbo Install Kit: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=600
$173

Porting Turbos Inlet: Mitsubishi Turbo Porting#-#Turbo Services#-#Turbo#-#DSM Performance Parts | DSMparts.com
$88

Greddy BOV: GReddy
$300

Manual Boost Controller: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=4&cat=0&page=1
$104

o2 Housing Sensor Megan Racing: Megan Racing SS Turbo Outlet(O2) Housing DSM - Modern Automotive Performance
$110

Grand Total: $5.7k haha
Again, looking for advice on what parts to change, what other parts to add, experience with certain brands parts, what is bad/good. And what Sort of parts I would need to upgrade both on the Bottom and Top end of a stock gs-t for 300-310 hp.
 
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Anthony_2gnt said:
I'm still learning, alll about engines in general, and how cars work. But if i'm going to be building up a car, I want to do it myself first of all so I understand how and why everything works, and then to know that it was done properly and that it will run safely. I don't want to buy a car and just have it blow up on me even though the add said it was all new haha. I think the biggest problem with people (and it does not seem this way on this forum) is that they want a nice car but they don't care about learning anything about it's mechanics or taking care of it. If you want a quality car, learn how to fix/repair/upgrade/and maintain yourself. I'm super excited about learning how to tune, as I love working with computer programs as well, especially if they will be giving me real life results right then haha.

(after 30 posts, why am I still probationary?)
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Almost everyone on here will push maintenance before anything so that's why that was the first thing I posted LOL. Make sure you listen because that is one of the most important things. Follow the guides and don't cut corners and your car problems should be reduced drastically. Theses cars will give you plenty of opportunities to learn all about the specific platform first hand. And if you can get in a local dsm group you guys can possibly go learn and get experience with them too. But you're right on not trusting the seller, make sure to do a thorough check of everything, and like I said, have a knowledgeable second opinion if possible. Good luck with the tuning btw, I'm going to be giving it a shot with my current talon as well.
 
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lasershark said:
be patient it might take a couple days, if you got your thirty today then I think it will reset tomorrow, it doesn't instantly change as you hit thirty posts,
You did verify your email right?
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I believe that I email verified yes, registered in 2012 I believe when I got my N/T. Haha I'm not worried was jw, thanks

Rikolas said:
Almost everyone on here will push maintenance before anything so that's why that was the first thing I posted LOL. Make sure you listen because that is one of the most important things. Follow the guides and don't cut corners and your car problems should be reduced drastically. Theses cars will give you plenty of opportunities to learn all about the specific platform first hand. And if you can get in a local dsm group you guys can possibly go learn and get experience with them too. But you're right on not trusting the seller, make sure to do a thorough check of everything, and like I said, have a knowledgeable second opinion if possible. Good luck with the tuning btw, I'm going to be giving it a shot with my current talon as well.
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Yeah, I'm so glad to whoever pointed my to the Tech Upgrade Path link thing. Was looking at the maintenance list and saw a few things I didn't write down to do, so that will be great. I already have a Shop Manual from AutoZone (Hanes I believe) that covers both the turbo and Non-turbo models so I will use that for some guidelines on doing everything correctly, along with searching the forums and the internet for usefull info. My fathers always been my second opinion, but he works on chevy/ford trucks mostly. Doesn't know much about turboed cars or Mitsus ahah. Going to have to get a compression tool if my dad doesn't already have one. And learn how to do a boost leak test. GL with the tuning as well, I bet it will be fun haha
 
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Anthony_2gnt said:
I believe that I email verified yes, registered in 2012 I believe when I got my N/T. Haha I'm not worried was jw, thanks
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I think know maybe you need to wait or day or so for it to activate. You will get there. Im Quite surprised you just got your 30 posts coming up on two years later with all the questions you've been having.
 
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Rikolas said:
I think know maybe you need to wait or day or so for it to activate. You will get there. Im Quite surprised you just got your 30 posts coming up on two years later with all the questions you've been having.
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Just started getting back into the DSM scene, and will actually have some spare change to make something happen with it :). When I joined I was 18 and was looking for a fix for the tranny problem on my 420a. Now I am actually looking for some knowledge and help and everything :) so I did join 2 years ago, but didn't really become active till I started researching how I'm going to build up the gs-t gsx(really think I'll get the gsx) that I will eventually be getting. Just am not happy with my 420a, it runs well, and its not the cars fault. Was my crappy fast decisions and the previous owners emission of certain details haha. My current car has definitely convinced me to get an exhaust with a silencer so that I don't have to hear it all the time. And to dynamat (or something similiar) my whole car.

danl said:
I love my 68HTA, like a 16g on steroids...
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I've never seen that turbo mentioned, was going with the S16g because it's supposed to spool more quickly, but still hold just a little less boost compared to the B16g. I'll have to look and see what the threads/google says about your turbo.

So from what I've been reading, it seems like the 68HTA has the housing of a td-05h, so it spools like a 16g, but has the ability to push more air (47lb/min) than a 20g. Seems like it would be a pretty sweet turbo to have if I can't find myself a cheap 16g :) thanks man.

Proven member, woohoo :)
 
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Anthony_2gnt said:
. My current car has definitely convinced me to get an exhaust with a silencer so that I don't have to hear it all the time. And to dynamat (or something similiar) my whole car.
Click to expand...

When I got my exhaust I told the shop that I didn't want it loud and "ricey". They threw a resonator on it so it's deeper than stock, for sure, but it's not riced out honda loud. The exhaust tone is nice and mellow.
 
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My exhaust is really low, and sounds really nice actually. Im just tired of the constant hum of it, and it sounds like i'm trying to race all the time, even when I shift at 2.5k haha
 
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The 68hta is supposed to be a really good street turbo as well. But yeah, that's why I'm looking for a s16g first becauseany a member uses them and they have been proven. Plus the small is supposed to spool up really quickly
 
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Ahh there we go, I knew you'd get bored with 300whp LOL

The 68HTA is going to require a somewhat different approach vs. the S16G. I don't feel that the cost of the 68HTA or it's 51lb/min compressor line up with what's been discussed here.

I maxed out both my 14B and S16G setups. On pump gas/toluene mix as primary, even WITH a water/meth nozzle spraying 10gph, I remember seeing nearly 50% IDCs on my S16G with 1450cc injectors.

Something like 39-40lbs/min.

Now add 25% more Compressor capacity, the fuel to support that, and then another ~20% more fuel for safety margin.

That's what you're looking at just for a fuel system to minimally support the 68HTA. This doesn't future-proof you for when you get sick of the 68HTA.

It'll happen! I started with a stock rebuild of a rolling shell.. 1G MAF/MAS on the rubber snorkel, 450s, Link and a Walbro 190.

Now I'm on an HX52 @ 31psi. The only thing I haven't updated since is the short block these past 6 years.

It'll happen to you! Plan now, save money. You'll have more fun.
 
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Getting an honest 300HP to the wheels is truly a lot on the street. Especially in a 2500-3200lb car with decent aero from the factory, a small cross-section and any semblance of traction.

Sure, you can buy a $32,000 Camaro SS that says it has "425HP!" which sounds nice. Until you see that without anything in the car it weighs 3900Lbs, per Chevy themselves. 9.3lbs/hp.. not nearly as impressive. Oh, and most of their sales have been autos? Let's be generous and use 18% drivetrain loss.. thats just less than 350whp or about 11.1whp/lb.

Not exactly awe-inspiring.

My FWD 5MT Laser (the car I ran the 14B/S16G on) was billed at 2530lbs from the factory. 300whp gives us 8.3whp/lb, thats nearly what you get from a 2014 Corvette Stingray at 7.9whp/lb (based on 407whp independent dyno of a stock Stingray) because of the weight difference! :hellyeah:

Even a heavy 3200lb 2G GSX comes in at 10.6whp/lb.

Hope that puts things in perspective.
 
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wouldn't it be lb/whp? Thinking about it that way makes more sense. As whp/lb you would want to be greater, and lb/whp you would want a smaller number LOL.
whp/lb is read as whp per lb
and lb/whp is lb per whp
And yeah it is quite a bit; I would love to be able to smoke all those wanna be ricey/tuner cars, or those muscle cars that think they are bad ass, in a car that looks stock. I hate when people wanna race me all the time and i'm stuck in a n/t 420a -_- haha, and it's only because my exhaust is loud as hell.
But, realizing how much potential the 4g63 engine has, it makes me want to be one of those people that can smoke any car out on the road easily while still being a road car.
Think about a 2g 3200lb car, with 500 horse ahah that's 6.4lb/hp xD
 
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Anthony_2gnt said:
wouldn't it be lb/whp? Thinking about it that way makes more sense. As whp/lb you would want to be greater, and lb/whp you would want a smaller number LOL.
whp/lb is read as whp per lb
and lb/whp is lb per whp

And yeah it is quite a bit; I would love to be able to smoke all those wanna be ricey/tuner cars, or those muscle cars that think they are bad ass, in a car that looks stock. I hate when people wanna race me all the time and i'm stuck in a n/t 420a -_- haha, and it's only because my exhaust is loud as hell.

But, realizing how much potential the 4g63 engine has, it makes me want to be one of those people that can smoke any car out on the road easily while still being a road car.

Think about a 2g 3200lb car, with 500 horse ahah that's 6.4lb/hp xD
Click to expand...

They amount to mean the same thing, using whole pounds is a bit more tangible for most than hundredths of a horsepower, which is already a bit of an abstract. :thumb:

I drive a >600whp 1G FWD MT, I can imagine it!
 
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300hp won't be enough for long. When I went from my modded talon to my stock talon, I'd go a little crazy with the power difference. Once you get a taste of power, you will want more.
 
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Anthony_2gnt said:
Yeah, selling my car right now, can't wait for this summer to be over so I can finally get a gsx :)
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Make sure you don't rush into any cars, I'd suggest that you look for a good one that is close to exactly what you want. Or if you see one withat a great deal and needs a little work, and are willing to work on it, get it. Good luck with the search! I'll also be keeping my eyes open for you.
 
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Just be smart about when you do get it. 300 isnt going to just happen without proper maint. and so on. Just take your time and read ALOT and listen to whats peoven and has worked for years.
 
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