It's a bit involved. But delete the balance shafts. Less rotational mass = slightly faster revving and minute power gains.

Do a non-turbo to turbo swap and tell them it's factory. I'm sure they don't check Vin numbers to verify. Can you even put dirt-racing tires on it?

Up the compression, either by a piston swap, or find a Hyundai 1.6 head and a set of regrind cams.

I say regrinds so if they do look, it will look stock.

@ the guy who said turbo haha they're surprisingly pretty in depth with their pre race inspections. One question i had was with a piston swap or injector swap, do you have to change the computer to account for the difference?

Dirt Eagle said:

@ the guy who said turbo haha they're surprisingly pretty in depth with their pre race inspections. One question i had was with a piston swap or injector swap, do you have to change the computer to account for the difference?

Click to expand...

Piston swap no, but for injectors you will need a way to control them. You can keep the stock computer and run a piggy back.

1996Eclipse420a said:

Piston swap no, but for injectors you will need a way to control them. You can keep the stock computer and run a piggy back.

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Ok so what if I bought larger injectors then installed a 2g maf (if so how many ccs)? would it even out? Running a piggy back would be too obvious for the inspections... also the claim rules are 1500$ and I dont want to drop an extra 500$ on a piggy back and then get claimed out of it

You said you cut the exhaust off two feet after the engine with no muffler/ cat; that will severely decrease torque, especially low end torque because you have the scavenging effect. I know only because I had to drive my 2.0 N/A to an exhaust shop with only headers and a down pipe. I really didn't feel any torque until I got into about the 4,000 to 5,000 RPM range, which sounds like why you are having trouble getting high RPM's in 3rd gear. I would put a muffler on or something that will create "back pressure" so you get torque back.

edit: http://www.carforum.net/exhaust-systems/9709-myth-back-pressure.html

This explains it perfectly what I am trying to say. It's a little reading but very informative. Good Luck!

eDeclpse92 said:

You said you cut the exhaust off two feet after the engine with no muffler/ cat; that will severely decrease torque, especially low end torque because you have the scavenging effect. I know only because I had to drive my 2.0 N/A to an exhaust shop with only headers and a down pipe. I really didn't feel any torque until I got into about the 4,000 to 5,000 RPM range, which sounds like why you are having trouble getting high RPM's in 3rd gear. I would put a muffler on or something that will create "back pressure" so you get torque back.

edit: No Specific Make The myth of "back pressure" - CarForum.net - Car Forums, Automotive News and Community

This explains it perfectly what I am trying to say. It's a little reading but very informative. Good Luck!

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****************************When I had the muffler and reducer on previously i had the same problem. I could try it with some form of restrictor plate in the where the turn down bolts in at. How much should I decrease the diameter? Current exhaust is at 2 and 1/4 inches.*********************

What muffler did you have on it before? Have you checked compression lately or do any tune up to it (i.e. spark plugs, wires, oil...)? I would try a stock muffler to see if that would work before you spend a lot of money on it. Also, when you adjusted the throttle, what exactly did you do to it?

I bought the car from a guy who put headers and exhaust on the car. No clue what was originally on it as far as muffler as his aftermarket muffler was just a fake muffler. Had to remove the headers and put stock exhaust manifold back on. Ported the manifold so that it would run smoothly into the aftermarket exhaust then a turn down at the end. However what ever exhaust pipe he put on is only 2 1/4 so it looks as if he just took out the cat and ran the same piping.

I haven't checked the compression but over the last week I put in 275cc injectors (up from the 240) and doubled the spark plug burn rate from 6 -> 9. The MAF is the honey comb design so not the nasty earlier maf. Oil of course! I ran prolong through while doing so to clean up. Also ran fuel system treatment when I first bought it.

The engine was a transplant and he didnt tighten everything up. The throttle was 10 degrees from being able to go full throttle so I adjusted the peddle stop and throttle cable to allow full throttle.