The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Rix Racing

Lightweight? Metal? Wood? Etc?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AWDforthewin

Proven Member
116
0
Feb 28, 2014
Springfield, Oregon
Alright guys I've taken out my back seats and basically want to move my battery into my spare tire hole and cover it all in a certain lightweight material. I may also replace my plastic side bezels when I build my cage... (Will be more for looks)

I want to place 2 subs behind my tai lights facing the front one on each side as well as one sub behind each seat and I'm making a center peice for it all ..

So I need to know what kind of material would be light to do this new "floor" if you will.. Good at welding steel but obviously that would be a problem because it heavy haha but have several years of building and I can fit all the angles together and wrap with carpet or whatever I need to. Any suggestions for my "floor" would be great and also what wake should my cage be made of and please no hate on how it's more for looks that cars my daily not a drag or race car
 
The "lightest" would be making a skeleton of the concept then making a fiber glass mold, and in the end after it's dried pull it away from it, having a solid fiberglass product. I would make multiple layers so it's thick and in the end you can paint it as well
 
The "lightest" would be making a skeleton of the concept then making a fiber glass mold, and in the end after it's dried pull it away from it, having a solid fiberglass product. I would make multiple layers so it's thick and in the end you can paint it as well
so make a Skelton from wood or something and fiberglass over it? Will fiberglass be strong enough I've made bumpers with it and Im good at working with it but can it support weight?
 
It can if you make it strong enough and it has some structural support such as wood etc, it should be fairly easy, I see that being the lightest option, it will still add weight but fiberglass is light and carbonfiber would be lighter but it's a pain In the ass to do right
 
It can if you make it strong enough and it has some structural support such as wood etc, it should be fairly easy, I see that being the lightest option, it will still add weight but fiberglass is light and carbonfiber would be lighter but it's a pain In the ass to do right

Sounds good also just curious any tyler of sheet metal that would work ? Thin thin metal with aluminum supports? I was thinking it doing my whole car this way?
 
when I build my cage... (Will be more for looks)

I want to place 2 subs behind my tai lights facing the front one on each side as well as one sub behind each seat and I'm making a center peice for it all ..

and please no hate on how it's more for looks that cars my daily not a drag or race car

There shouldn't be a reason to be concerned about weight if you are planning on installing 4+ subs as well as a cage that would be made only for looks.

I used regular old ply wood when i remade mine. Not too weighty and nice and rigid.

If your cage will be for looks, PVC pipe should suffice. On a more serious note, Chromoly Tubing will be one of your best options for weight and strength. Ive also seen thicker walled steel pipe used. There are Plenty O' articles on that.
 
Just trying to save as much weight as I can since I will e adding a bunch of weight hahaha ironic much?

There shouldn't be a reason to be concerned about weight if you are planning on installing 4+ subs as well as a cage that would be made only for looks. I used regular old ply wood when i remade mine. Not too weighty and nice and rigid. If your cage will be for looks, PVC pipe should suffice. On a more serious note, Chromoly Tubing will be one of your best options for weight and strength. Ive also seen thicker walled steel pipe used. There are Plenty O' articles on that.

And I may be making the cage functional just haven't decided yet
 
Just trying to save as much weight as I can since I will e adding a bunch of weight hahaha ironic much?



And I may be making the cage functional just haven't decided yet

Dont bother doing a non functioning cage.... It screams ricer.
Also make sure local police aren't going to be complaining. California you could get in trouble if it isn't perfect.
 
For starters, I would also +1 the use of at least 1/2" plywood to reinforce the box structure you are building. And not cheap azz 1/2" wafer board, but 1/2" mdf, maybe even jumping to 5/8"
1- it serves as a skeleton for the entire project
2- you can space it correctly to make a perfect sq footage for your subs to perform at the best they can

The problem is the precision it takes to make it flush with the floor, since it is full of elevation changes and curves

The second part of my two parter... is this a show only car? I have a single MTX 12" 6500 series sub in a sealed box with an 800 watt amp, and it pretty much rattles my dash loose and makes my nose tickle. Why on earth do you need 4 subs?
If you are serious about it you may as well buy plexi for the entire rear end glass and plan on riveting it into place with some gorilla snot sealant.... it just sounds like overkill... adding a 200lb cage, 50 lbs of wood and fiberglass, and if you buy quality subs.... probably another at least 80-100lbs in subs alone. Not including amps, wiring, sound deadener, ear plugs to keep on hand, extra windows to replace, etc...

Have a buddy that's pretty much deaf, 4 mtx thunder 8500's, 4 1000 watt mono block amps with 00 wiring to each on 4 series batteries and a xxx rated alternator... in a blazer.... wiring it up to a vat-40 current tester showed a legit 1050 watt average across each amp. Blew his back window out twice, spidered the glass on a side window, lost his rear view about 7 times.... oh, and he can't hear you whisper a foot away.

Hopefully you can have some flexibility on your plans. Unless its a show car, then the fake cage and quad sub setup will only (highly likely) result in less than positive remarks.
 
I vote that you trade me your 95 GSX for my 97 GS if you are wanting to do all of that LOL . On another note, I too suggest that you read up on doing custom fiberglass boxes. I will be doing one later this year to replace the one I have now. You can use MDF as stated to make the skeleton and wrap it with fleece, put the fiberglass resin on the fleece and then add fiberglass on the inside to reinforce it. Just do a Google search for "diy custom fiberglass sub box" There are plenty of ways out there.
 
For starters, I would also +1 the use of at least 1/2" plywood to reinforce the box structure you are building. And not cheap azz 1/2" wafer board, but 1/2" mdf, maybe even jumping to 5/8" 1- it serves as a skeleton for the entire project 2- you can space it correctly to make a perfect sq footage for your subs to perform at the best they can The problem is the precision it takes to make it flush with the floor, since it is full of elevation changes and curves The second part of my two parter... is this a show only car? I have a single MTX 12" 6500 series sub in a sealed box with an 800 watt amp, and it pretty much rattles my dash loose and makes my nose tickle. Why on earth do you need 4 subs? If you are serious about it you may as well buy plexi for the entire rear end glass and plan on riveting it into place with some gorilla snot sealant.... it just sounds like overkill... adding a 200lb cage, 50 lbs of wood and fiberglass, and if you buy quality subs.... probably another at least 80-100lbs in subs alone. Not including amps, wiring, sound deadener, ear plugs to keep on hand, extra windows to replace, etc... Have a buddy that's pretty much deaf, 4 mtx thunder 8500's, 4 1000 watt mono block amps with 00 wiring to each on 4 series batteries and a xxx rated alternator... in a blazer.... wiring it up to a vat-40 current tester showed a legit 1050 watt average across each amp. Blew his back window out twice, spidered the glass on a side window, lost his rear view about 7 times.... oh, and he can't hear you whisper a foot away. Hopefully you can have some flexibility on your plans. Unless its a show car, then the fake cage and quad sub setup will only (highly likely) result in less than positive remarks.

Holy buckets LOL haha 2 of my subs are shallow mount though and are in drake boxes for "punch" sounds the other two are regular and ported for the the lower "rumble" I'm finishing mock setting it up in my Durango as of now to see if I actually want it or not. If it's to much I'll just put the nicer pair in and make it look pretty.

And no it's not a show car :) just my weekend toy

I vote that you trade me your 95 GSX for my 97 GS if you are wanting to do all of that LOL . On another note, I too suggest that you read up on doing custom fiberglass boxes. I will be doing one later this year to replace the one I have now. You can use MDF as stated to make the skeleton and wrap it with fleece, put the fiberglass resin on the fleece and then add fiberglass on the inside to reinforce it. Just do a Google search for "diy custom fiberglass sub box" There are plenty of ways out there.

My car had so many problems and I bought it with I kid you not a half inch of mud caked and baked into the side from the sun and I have so many hours scrubbing and polishing and cleaning I just couldn't let her go hahah. And I will look into the fiberglass!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top