I installed a brand pte 6262 using a modified 2g drain line instead of running -10 line the russel pro classic line kept looking like it was trying to collapse. I have two -10 lines running off the VC into a JMF deluxe catch can. Cars smoking after I shift gears, an after hard pulls. doesn't smoke on start up or if im easy on driving. Could I need to get rid of more crank case pressure by going from the block as well? My catch can is filling up very fast.

Done a leakdown test lately? Probably poor ring seal.

Is your catch can attached to vac or is it open vented? Hows your compression/ leak down how are the rings?I have a gatorade bottle catch can with 3/8 hose off the stock VC barb and an NPT barb where the pcv was. I dont get any smoking to speak of.

I would do a leak down test as suggested. My car was doing the same thing and my compression test was perfect but as soon as I did a leak down test I found that 2 of my cylinders weren't keeping pressure. My piston rings were fried for sure so I would do the leak down and see what you find

Car is smoking after I shift gears, an after hard pulls. doesn't smoke on start up or if i'm easy on driving.

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Some serious valve seal issues, or even weak valve guides is what's going on here.

You suddenly slam the throttle plate closed after a WOT and you develop serious vacuum in the cylinders and oil gets pulled down past the seals and being collected on the pistons.

And when you quickly open the throttle plate, you're suddenly burning off the pulled oil....and, with the pressure from the oil mist up in the head due to these two worn items is what is probably filling up the catch can.

The motor had about 4000 miles on it when I put the car down never smoked a day in its life. I start the car up with all the new items now its smoking. I'm not really understanding how they would be bad, but I will do your test an see what I get.

I was more of looking for a answer in the field of can high crank pressure cause smoking out the exhaust. Due to the oil going past bearing in my turbo burning it in the exhaust an hotside, causeing white oil smoke. if the oil smoke was blue it would be from the motor, combusting the oil inside the motor white would mean its being burnt by touching something hot (due to high crank case pressure). Someone chime in an correct me if im wrong.

I have a -6 fitting to put in the back of my block to help relieve some of this pressure. I'm looking for someone to weld aluminum to test that theory.

White smoke means your burning coolant not oil.

I can smell oil theres no oil in my coolant. my coolant is staying full there are no leaks

Pull the exhaust manifold and look at the exhaust valves. If your oil burning is coming from the head, it will be very obvious when you look at the valves. If there's no sign of oil burning coming from the head, suspect your turbo....probably kinked drain. This is a quick dirty method that I have employed for years and normally you get a quick resolution...especially if tools are not handy for proper diagnosis.

Course, one simple method is to stick a finger in the exhaust pipe and give the inside of the pipe a wipe with the finger.

If the black on your finger is all black yet just dry soot, that's okey.

But if it comes out slimy then you know you're burning oil at a good rate.

Oil between shifts and on decel is likely valve guides or valve stem seals.

You said you've got lines going to a catch can. Is this vented to atmosphere or are you using a PCV or other type of check valve? Simply running a line from the crankcase to a catch can does nothing to help with crankcase pressure except make it worse.

Ya I have two -10 from the the valve cover going to atmosphere, an now I have a -6 in the back of the block going to a catch can. They are all running into the same catch can. My drain line is solid metal no way it can bend at all. I haven't yet taken the car down the road since installing the -6 in the back of the block

That's why you're burning oil; no crankcase ventilation.

All engines are designed to operate with the crankcase under vacuum. With no PCV system to draw a vacuum, pressure builds up and causes all kinds of problems with the oiling, windage, ring seal and the oil gets contaminated and breaks down faster.

The solution is a functioning PCV system modeled after the OEM setup which works well. If you're having trouble with the lines drawing in oil from the valve cover, then install a simple in-line separator not a can vented to atmosphere.

My experience is contradicting to JAM. I run 2 stock sized lines into a vented gatorade bottle. And i dont have any smoke at all. There was one time i left both calve cover lines looped after a boost leak test. and went down the block and realized smoke pouring out. Lol but other then that i don't have any adverse affects?

Like I said, smoke is not the only adverse effect of the lack of a PCV system. Why do you think race cars with big cams go to the extent of spending thousands of dollars on vacuum pumps? OE's spend millions of R&D on PCV systems.

There a lot of people who run the same setup I have. I thought the car draws vacuum at idle not during wot

You are correct. But the intake pipe is always under "vacuum", which the crank case should be vented to, ideally creating vacuum in the crank case.

jjw205 said:

You are correct. But the intake pipe is always under "vacuum", which the crank case should be vented to, ideally creating vacuum in the crank case.

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Bingo! The turbo creates a low pressure zone. Unlike the pcv, this draws crankcase pressures out at both idle and WOT. A vented can will not function like this.

I had the same problem, I deleted factory pcv system and just ran it to a RRE catch can vented. Smoked after WOT pulls. Fresh rebuild on the car. No smoke during idle, normal cruising only wot. I was like that's weird leak down test, checked compression, checked plugs, pulled exhaust manifold no oil, checked my coolant levels never lost any, normal operating temps, so that deleted the head lifting, I even re-checked the L19's torque to make 100% sure. I was like is going on my new motor is shot. Then I thought maybe I need bigger lines so I got Calans catch can dual -10AN from the VC to the catch can vented. This helped but did not delete it completely. I had mine made to run vented or -12AN to the intake pipe. When I swapped from the dual -10AN vented to atmosphere, to the dual -10AN and one -12AN to the intake pipe solved my problem. But guess what after driving it like this for 7,000 miles that excessive crankcase pressure blew the seals out of my holset. pulled my air intake tube and had a small puddle of oil. That was my problem and that's how I solved it. Now I'm waiting for my turbo to return after a refresh from JusMX. As many said whether you run the stock pcv set-up or a line from a sealed catch can you need vacuum pulling that pressure from the motor. This was my experience and that's what I did to solve it.

There is some thruth to jack's theory so much so that I been running it on my current setup and its has worked flawless make sure you click on the video and watch it. I run a similar setup with a mishimoto oil catch can.

Jacks PCV – Jacks Transmissions LLC

Would there be anything wrong with teeing into the bov line closento the intake manifold with a check valve? I'm currently out of vac ports and used the pcv barb on the intake manifold for my bov

I route my lines just straight to the ground with no issues at all. Pcv valve has been hacked so it is free flowing. Both have lines that go straight down and no vacuum source. Friend ran it on his car after mine running 40+ psi and had no issues either. My father ran two -10an fittings to a vented can, also with no problems at all. Ever motor is different it seems though.

dsmspick said:

I route my lines just straight to the ground with no issues at all. Pcv valve has been hacked so it is free flowing. Both have lines that go straight down and no vacuum source. Friend ran it on his car after mine running 40+ psi and had no issues either. My father ran two -10an fittings to a vented can, also with no problems at all. Ever motor is different it seems though.

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Thats what I'm doing except to a gatorafe bottle, but i was curious if teeing into a vac line with a check valve would suffice instead of being direct intake manifold.