Tdo5 20g or tdo6 20g. Both will get you there, the tdo5 version will spool stupid fast, the tdo6 will spool just a little slower but flow more air and would be better when you decide for more power

Im in the same boat. Ive been doing alot of homework on this as well. In my opinion, for budget sake, I think its going to be cheaper to go with the e3-16g. If you go with the hx35 youll either have to get the right exhaust manifold/downpipe, or the right turbine housing. You will also have to upgrade to the proper sized oil drain at the turbo. Youll need to figure out where youre going to feed the oil from as well. Some guys recommend oiling from the OFH, and some feed from the head. Then comes all of the rest of the supporting mods.......
Like a few others, youll be able to bolt on the 16g, 550cc injectors and the 190lph fuel pump. Theyve gotten some decent power with just this and no tuning. youll definitely want to tune and get the supporting mods.

I have this setup and its a tire burner.
Xspower tubular manifold
Big 16g @ 18psi
Evo injectors for the moment, have 660's on my desk to run in the 20's on the boost
3" turbo back thermal exhaust
Wally 255
Fuel lab afpr
Pieced together fmic with evo8 core
My tuning consists of a keydiver chip for 660's with an safc on top to fine tune... and detune to the evo injectors. You can tune to your goal with the safc alone if you run an injector up to 660's.

You want to make sure to at LEAST have a boost gauge and a wideband.

I spool to full boost of 18psi by 3200rpm... its ridiculous how responsive it is. I have a set of 264/264 cams to throw in with adjustable gears just to try and get this turbo to spool a little later in the power band. It will burn through 1/2 and the beginning of third till you start to get your speed up.

I'm hoping after I get my timing belt done, injector swap, and throwing in the cams, that I end up at 350 on the dyno around the corner.

Okay first off I would like to say I am kind of a newbie to some things that are really in depth but I do know most all of the basics.. And second I'm not trying to be the guy who buys his car and puts the biggest turbo he can find for a good deal and make crazy power.. I know that's not how it works haha

Soo I currently have a 95 Gsx with a FP race manifold, cattless 3" down pipe, and full 3" exhaust out to a vibrant turbo muffler.. That's about all I have for now that will effect this "choice"

I've always wanted to do the hx35 turbo in my car.. However currently I have a blown 16g with rediculous shaft play.. That being said I need a new turbo as soon as possible and go the price to rebuild my 16g I can buy a good condition hx35 with the bullseye hot side to match up dsm patterns for about the same price ($400 ish)

I need to know of I can do the hx35 with stock internals if I keep the boost down until I can forge the inside? If I can will it cause any harm? If I go the hx35 route I have a full fuel system and ecmlink v3 on the way! Sorry for the long article guys any help I'm my choice will be appreciated as I will be deciding in the next few days.. And once again to clarify I'm not trying to put on a big turbo to make a lot of power I understand that I need a lot of supporting mods to go along with it to reach it's real potential I jut don't want to mess anything up! Thanks!

You can rebuild a 16g way cheaper then 400. I'm really not trying to be an ass but all of your questions have been covered many times here. Honestly if you don't have the supporting mods to push the 16g you have, you probably should get all of that situated before you go slapping a hx35 on your car.

Not trying to be an ass either but all I've done is research on rebuilding them the last day and there isn't any places around where I live that will rebuild them so I have to ship it off and I would want it done by a respectable company as well.. Do you know where I may be able to find or know of a place? I know FP says most rebuilds are are around $400 is what I based that off of..

Oh also have a VRSf FMIC as well

The hx 35 can be a great turbo and is even on a stock block since you have mods coming already, go for it. I hate taking off my turbo so go for it. As long as you have the tuning in order you have link coming and the widedband, your good, just make the goals for your car and go from there, we all start somewhere and learn as we go and all continue to learn, im no expert but I know enough, so get I would get the holset and don't look back as your goals may change more power most of us crave.

For lack of a better word I'm going to use "spool"
My main concern with the hx35 is I don't want to make so much powers risk damaging my internals but I want to make enough to actually make the turbo spool an have power still

AWDforthewin said:

However currently I have a blown 16g with rediculous shaft play.. That being said I need a new turbo as soon as possible and go the price to rebuild my 16g I can buy a good condition hx35 with the bullseye hot side to match up dsm patterns for about the same price ($400 ish)

Click to expand...

99ECLIPSEGSXDSM said:

You can rebuild a 16g way cheaper then 400.

Click to expand...

1) You can't rebuild a 16G with ridiculous shaft play for cheaper than $400. Literally everything will need replaced.

2) Maybe you can buy the HX35 and BEP housing used for $400, but what are you doing for a wastegate? How about oil lines? Most external gates and o2 housings are $400 alone, plus $100 for a new oil line...that's $900 spent assuming you already have the turbo and turbine housing for $400.


I vote to use your existing turbine housing and have a 20G CHRA and cover built and installed for $450 or so. Simple installation, uses the same oil lines as the 16G, and more powerful than the 16G.

Have a tial mv-s 38mm external ready to order tomorrow and I'm almost done with my 02 housing (re fabricated the atmosphere dump to put the wastegate in.). And that's still something I would need done by a shop correct? I would be okay with doing that if it wasn't much more than 400 and as far as the holder stuff being expensive I have a buddy who lost interesting his project and owes me some money for some work that's why it's close to the same since he said I can just have most of the parts.. If I could get a little more info on the 20g Chra and cover like where I could have it done and compared to a stock 16g?

Unless I shouldn't run external WG on a 16g I just know with my final set up down the road I will need it

Click on the link at the bottom of "JusMX141" signature, or try Turbo Lab if you haven't already paid a visit to the "freelance" section of the classified section and see what you think, they're both very talented turbo builders we're fortunate to have here.

so i currently have a 3076r T3 with an 82ar.
it has a fair amount of shaft play it will most likely not have an issue but i will be beating the crap out of it with tons of boost on e85

well i can send it to FP and have them perform their Magic and it turns into a 59lbs per min fast spooling monster for $700 plus shipping

OR

i can get a brand spanking new 6266 journal bearing turbo for about $800

i really just cant decided which is a better choice?
Please can i get some opinions

I may be a little biased but, have you thought about getting a holset.

Read up on the reliability of journal bearing PTE turbos and how their customer service handles the situation when it fails randomly and without warning after 5K miles, then send yours to FP and have them work their magic.

Lmao I guess that I will be calling them soon

Holset would be more of an option if I was starting with a 16g but it already has coolant and oil lines for garrett

Here are my current mods I've be looking into fp turbos and right now I have no clue what to do. 305hp on a cd racing eBay turbo isn't cutting it think it is time to make some power. Any input is appreciated.

Walbro 255LPH, FIC 750cc Injectors, Fuel Lab Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Lab Fuel Filter and -6AN Feed Lines ETS Short Route Front Mount Intercooler Kit 3" Turbo Back Exhuast, Halmen Boost Controler set at 21psi PR o2 housing with 38mm Tial External Wastegate 50mm Tial Q BOV Ebay 16g Dejon tools 2.5" Intake Ported Forced Performance Exhaust Manifold FP Manifold Blanket Greddy Style BOV, Silicone Radiator Hose kit CX Racing Alumunium Radiator EGR block off Cruise-Control Delete AC Delete

Engine Management:
AEM Wideband,Oil Pressure Gauge, Boost Gauge Turbo Timer DSMLINK V3 Speed Density

Engine Internals:
Balance Shaft Eliminator kit ARP Head Studs

Drivetrain Modifications:
4 bolt rear end swap, English Racing Transmission Act 2100 Clutch, OEM Flywheel Slave/Master Cylinder stainless clutch line

bradcurtis15 said:

Here are my current mods I've be looking into fp turbos and right now I have no clue what to do. 305hp on a cd racing eBay turbo isn't cutting it think it is time to make some power. Any input is appreciated.

Walbro 255LPH, FIC 750cc Injectors .....

Click to expand...

Do you just want a bigger turbo and keep everything else the same? Same 750cc, Wally 255, FP exhaust manifold, straight 92 octane pump gas, all that?
You could probably get another 100 hp or so from all that stuff, with an FP Green or Red. Cams?
Good Grief I see the Green and Red are both priced at $899 right now. I think they were $1300 just a month ago.
Your 2100 clutch might not get there.

I want to ditch the 20g.

I plan on running e85 asap.

I am looking at the FP green and Red for $899 and both are very tempting. Wish the Green XL was still available.

I know the old red has terrible lag. How about the 76hta red?

Looking to set my self up for no more than 500 AWHP. Id like to be above 400HP on 93 oct and methanol, and close to 500HP on E85.

I am tempted to get a holset, But I just want to rip the 20g off and pop the green/red on. I don't really want to fiddle with fitment right now.

So red or green? or a similar priced new turbo that is better and still very close to bolt-on...

Bone stock 2.0L engine with ~40k (will stay that way)


EDIT: Pulled the trigger on a FPred

right now I have a 20g ebay turbo with all supporting mods (I bought the car like that)

I found 2 turbos I am trying to decide between one is for 530 its the Mitsubishi td05h 20g ( http://store.forcedperformance.net/...ct_Code=49178-04600&Category_Code=Turbo-Mitsu )

or theres the Hahn racecraft super 20 turbo for 600 which is quite a bit bigger in fact I believe its the biggest 20g turbo and I also think its made by mhi but I don't think its as reliable as the Mitsubishi one (heres the link) http://www.turbosystem.com/auto/Super 20G Universal.htm

by the way I don't want any kind of 16g or 18g

MHI 20G (from fp). From what I've read the super 20g is prone to leaking fluids. You can't beat the quality of MHI if you're picking between those two.

ok thanks and ya I have read the same thing about the super 20g's

I use a bastard 20g with 7 blade billet wheel and love it for my stock mani. new everything from turbolab was around 600$.

what manifold do you have? both turbos you posted are for a t3 manifold. if you have a stock dsm manifold these would require a new mani or adapter plate. if you have a t3 manifold already why not find a hx35 around that price range.

ya I have a t3 mani and I heard that the hx35 takes for ever too spool up and id have to get bigger injectors with that big of a turbo I have 680cc injectors right now

Hx35 and you are going to want bigger injectors anyways. With the right tune and mods you really won't hate the lag when that power hits. If not then MHI 20g but seriously with turbo upgrades bigger is better. You can always go bigger and run lower boost then tune low and have room for more later. Better then maxing out that 20g in a year and thinking about all the monies you wasted and "why didn't I just listen to that random guy on the interwebs??" ha!