From my experience, the stock auto converter stalls at around 2000-2200. The Big 16g spools around 3200-3500. The HX35 in a 12cm housing I can only assume would spool at 4000+ on a 5 speed in 3rd gear. The auto only has 4 gears, that is something else to consider because an 1/8 mile is really short.

I would suggest bolting on that 16g with everything else you have. You can always upgrade. Also, on my old 92 Talon Awd Auto, my 14b built 20psi off the brake. My 16g about 10 before I felt it pull through. All stock minus free mods and DSMlink v2.5.

get a new converter before your upgrading turbos, converters can drop your time by A L O T.

Just hit the HX35 with some spray out of the hole and you'll do fine with a stock converter.

EclipseOwner95 said:

Just hit the HX35 with some spray out of the hole and you'll do fine with a stock converter.

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adding nos would almost be the same price as a awesome converter, especially after a full season of use!

What about sending off this 16g and having a 20g wheel and compressor installed?

1G Eclipse94928 said:

adding nos would almost be the same price as a awesome converter, especially after a full season of use!

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What?

1. You can get a nitrous kit for $300-$400. You'd only be hitting it with a 50 shot for 1-2 seconds at most, so a 10lb bottle will last a long time.

2. There are no "Awesome" OTS 1G Converters anymore, so you're looking at $1500+ for a properly set up 1G converter.

3. Big stall in a converter = rough to drive on the street, keeping a stock converter means easy street driving, and a tight coupling so you could still do rolls if you chose to.

EclipseOwner95 said:

What?

1. You can get a nitrous kit for $300-$400. You'd only be hitting it with a 50 shot for 1-2 seconds at most, so a 10lb bottle will last a long time.

2. There are no "Awesome" OTS 1G Converters anymore, so you're looking at $1500+ for a properly set up 1G converter.

3. Big stall in a converter = rough to drive on the street, keeping a stock converter means easy street driving, and a tight coupling so you could still do rolls if you chose to.

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Your right, I thought nos was $1,000 for a kit for some reason. /facepalm.

According to mike a sinister speed a stock converter will stall up to about 2600. I have a weighted 8" core 2 and LOVE IT. Drives like a stock converter on the street but still will stall 5k+ on the break when I want it to ... and the converter was only $950 compared to IPT and precision converters that are close to $1500 and suck driving on the street because they aren't tight enough down low

I have a sinister 9 inch weighted core 1a in my mirage with a gtx3076 it does great so far. I haven't got to really test it due to injector issues, but i haven't lost any mph from my stock converter and i was letting off on the top end due to the car leaning out.. For 900 bucks they are hard to beat for a 1g.

leathaleagle21 what rpm can you stall it to? What turbo and what psi does it stall at? Thanks.

Turbogsxr1100 said:

leathaleagle21 what rpm can you stall it to? What turbo and what psi does it stall at? Thanks.

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" I have a weighted 8" core 2 and LOVE IT. Drives like a stock converter on the street but still will stall 5k+ on the break when I want it to"
with the 8, so that will be enough imo.

Do you guys have internal trans mods or can the converter be used in a good stock trans with a big cooler?

Turbogsxr1100 said:

Do you guys have internal trans mods or can the converter be used in a good stock trans with a big cooler?

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Well, Built transmission would have less chance of blowing up, I wouldn't run a hx35 with stock trans and nos or an upgraded converter for too long tbh. someone with more auto experience should chime in though.

E: oh oops, you have a b16g, I think you would be fine if you didnt go too hard on it, but you could blow it up the first run too.

What turbo do you run and how much boost can it built braking it?

black97spyder said:

According to mike a sinister speed a stock converter will stall up to about 2600. I have a weighted 8" core 2 and LOVE IT. Drives like a stock converter on the street but still will stall 5k+ on the break when I want it to ... and the converter was only $950 compared to IPT and precision converters that are close to $1500 and suck driving on the street because they aren't tight enough down low

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How does it drive on the freeway? Does your trans runn hotter during freeway driving? Usually when a converter is so loose to stall there would be a bit of slip in the top end. If you're experiencing good results with your sinister then I will look into it since I picked up an hy35.

If all fails then nitrous just to spool.

camfast said:

How does it drive on the freeway? Does your trans runn hotter during freeway driving? Usually when a converter is so loose to stall there would be a bit of slip in the top end. If you're experiencing good results with your sinister then I will look into it since I picked up an hy35.

If all fails then nitrous just to spool.

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How do you like the hy35? I'm thinking thats my next upgrade.

1G Eclipse94928 said:

How do you like the hy35? I'm thinking thats my next upgrade.

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I haven't ran it yet, still collecting supporting parts. I'm hoping that it will work out how it should depending on the exhaust manifold.

I'd go with the 16g over the holset, for street use the 16g was more fun.

camfast said:

How does it drive on the freeway? Does your trans runn hotter during freeway driving? Usually when a converter is so loose to stall there would be a bit of slip in the top end. If you're experiencing good results with your sinister then I will look into it since I picked up an hy35.

If all fails then nitrous just to spool.

Click to expand...

On the highway at 70mph im cruising at 3k-3,100 rpm and the converter is REAL tight up top... my converter is actually more efficient than the stock converter according to the numbers that Mike at sinister speed calculated for me

As for the trans temps Im running the biggest trans cooler IPT sells (28,000 lb GVW) and when I drove 10 hours to Denver I didnt see over 150* trans temps going back into my trans... and I also have a 10" slim fan thats a puller that i installed about 6 months ago to help keep trans temps from rising when just sitting in line waiting for my turn at the race track.

I was told when buying my converter to ABSOLUTELY make sure I had a big aftermarket trans cooler because I was told the stock one will only cool the trans with the big stall in it for about 20 minutes of highway driving. So make sure you have a bigger trans cooler than stock.... mine is 12" x 11" x 1.5" thick, where the stock one is 7" tall x 5" wide x .75" thick


Just fyi I was running an MHI 20g with FP mani, 8.3:1 compression, bc280's and stock 2g intake & t/b and getting about 5200 rpm stall and full boost (24psi) after about 3800rpm.... now im switching to 9.5:1 comprrssion, bc284's, P.R. T3 hotparts kit, stock 2g intake with 1g t/b and a 6 blade holset hx40 pro w/ t3 .70 a/r housing so it will probably be harder for me to stall the converter up but should still easily get 4700 or so rpm stall out of the new setup from what mike told me

surprising...i build over 15psi on my evo16g in a 91gsx auto....im considering going for a twin scroll setup soon....dont want a loose converter..as the car is mostly street

My converter is no where near as loose as what you think. It starts moving the car at about 1300rpm and drives exactly like a stock converter other than the fact u can brake boost double the rpm the stock converter will allow

black97spyder said:

My converter is no where near as loose as what you think. It starts moving the car at about 1300rpm and drives exactly like a stock converter other than the fact u can brake boost double the rpm the stock converter will allow

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You got the lock up on the 2g trans , sometimes i just wanna swap it in in place of the 1g trans in favor of a few issues. The ipt converter in the built trans i had in my 2g was at 3300. Very streetable

black97spyder said:

On the highway at 70mph im cruising at 3k-3,100 rpm and the converter is REAL tight up top... my converter is actually more efficient than the stock converter according to the numbers that Mike at sinister speed calculated for me

As for the trans temps Im running the biggest trans cooler IPT sells (28,000 lb GVW) and when I drove 10 hours to Denver I didnt see over 150* trans temps going back into my trans... and I also have a 10" slim fan thats a puller that i installed about 6 months ago to help keep trans temps from rising when just sitting in line waiting for my turn at the race track.

I was told when buying my converter to ABSOLUTELY make sure I had a big aftermarket trans cooler because I was told the stock one will only cool the trans with the big stall in it for about 20 minutes of highway driving. So make sure you have a bigger trans cooler than stock.... mine is 12" x 11" x 1.5" thick, where the stock one is 7" tall x 5" wide x .75" thick


Just fyi I was running an MHI 20g with FP mani, 8.3:1 compression, bc280's and stock 2g intake & t/b and getting about 5200 rpm stall and full boost (24psi) after about 3800rpm.... now im switching to 9.5:1 comprrssion, bc284's, P.R. T3 hotparts kit, stock 2g intake with 1g t/b and a 6 blade holset hx40 pro w/ t3 .70 a/r housing so it will probably be harder for me to stall the converter up but should still easily get 4700 or so rpm stall out of the new setup from what mike told me

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Thanks black97spyder!! Great real life information

That's close to a stock because I cruise at 80 @3000-3100rpms and this is with a tight rebuilt converter. If it can stall at 4.5+ Rpm then it would be a great match for anything up to a 62mm turbo. How long did it take to stall your previous setup?

Phantom DSM said:

You got the lock up on the 2g trans , sometimes i just wanna swap it in in place of the 1g trans in favor of a few issues. The ipt converter in the built trans i had in my 2g was at 3300. Very streetable

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If I was on a stock converter then yeah I would have the lock up

camfast said:

Thanks black97spyder!! Great real life information

That's close to a stock because I cruise at 80 @3000-3100rpms and this is with a tight rebuilt converter. If it can stall at 4.5+ Rpm then it would be a great match for anything up to a 62mm turbo. How long did it take to stall your previous setup?

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Its been awhile since I drove the car (been since end of October, have been doing for a crazy overhaul so I can run 9's with a street car ) so it could have been 75mph at 3100ish rpm. I know I lost 200 rpm over the stock converter and that's most likely due to me loosing the lock up function in the converter.

Yes, your absolutely right my 8" weighted core 2 is good up to a pte 6266 sized turbo @ 35psi. Anything bigger turbo wise and you would need one of Sinister's 9" converter's... let me find a link to me stalling up on my old setup ... here you go!

Here is one video of me racing my younger brother
[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tVPoHv4NOZQ[/ame]

and another video of just me.... Both were self tuned on link v3 with the 20g, FIC 1120's and mods listed in the posts above
[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e3DhbC2HaR8[/ame]


Hope they helped!! Makes me ready to drive the car again with its wicked new setup