It's pretty common actually. Especially on older turbine housings. It helps to chase the threads on the turbine housing prior to installation, as well as using anti-sieze on the bolt threads.

Agreed. Best thing you can do now is drill them out, and retap and get new bolts. As stated above, get some anti seize and it will help.

I have already drilled them out and retapped and thankfully got my manifold bolted on again. Where can I buy this anti-seize from? I do not need this happening on my newer turbo.

Recently got turned on to this product:



It's an anti-seize compound that is supposed to be effective at 2300*f. I got a sample bottle from a local distributor for this company and I'm eager to see some real-world results on my own stuff. It's as thin as White Lithium but smells like Anti-Seize.

you can get anti-seize almost anywhere. auto parts stores sell the jars with the "paintbrush" applicator, or the cute little 'one job' packets. yer choice!

Right, but you'll want to use the Copper or Nickel Anti-Seize on high-temp applications. Standard Anti-Seize is fortified with aluminum, and once the carrier lubricant has been burned away, we all know how steel and aluminum get along.

On low-temp applications the aluminum flakes act as a lubricant by allowing a buffer between the bolt and the hole it's being threaded into. On high-temp applications that aluminum will melt and actually bond or fuse the threads in place, so you must use Anti-Seize with a compound that will not melt from excessive temperatures.

I actually think that using the wrong Anti-Seize on turbo bolts is worse than installing them dry.

The first time i have trouble with a turbo to manifold bolt, i use nuts and bolts, to avoid any further problems.

Actually the best method is actually the worst if you remove your turbo or manifold a lot....studs. It's better to have four studs holding the turbo to the manifold than anything else. They never come loose, they never break off, and they always thread out of the turbine housing fairly easily if you ever need to remove them.

Yeah I think I might decide on studs instead of bolts on my new turbo with the FP manifold. That hopefully wont get messed up again.

jusmx141 said:

Recently got turned on to this product:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It's an anti-seize compound that is supposed to be effective at 2300*f. I got a sample bottle from a local distributor for this company and I'm eager to see some real-world results on my own stuff. It's as thin as White Lithium but smells like Anti-Seize.

Click to expand...

Your picture isn't showing up, what's it called?

This is what I use: Jegs 28005 Anti-Seize & Lubricant. It's a cooper based anti-seize and it's rated to 2,000 degrees F (plus its only $7 a bottle).

Even with high temp copper antiseize, your turbo bolts can easily seize. Of course, its better than nothing. I have busted 3 sets of arp turbo bolts. Best thing to do to prevent this is to use pb blaster a few days before taking things off with some heat cycles. Upon removal, use one last time pb blaster, then start the car. Get it to driving temps. While the turbine housing is off, start to loosen up the bolts. They should come off easily. I learned this from an old timer at a machine shop. He has extracted all my seized turbo bolts. I guess he felt sorry for me. Lol. Yeah but it works like a charm. No more broken turbo bolts for me. Yay!!!

9!'clipseDOHC said:

Your picture isn't showing up, what's it called?

Click to expand...

Weird....it's showing up on both my work and home computer.

Anyway, it's Chemsearch Thread-Eze Ultra. I'll have more feedback on it once I put it to the test on some of my own personal stuff, but supposedly it's great for anything....even brake slider pins where they normally caution you against using Anti-Seize because once the carrier lubricant evaporates the aluminum flakes will actually cause the sliders to bind worse than if they were dry.

jusmx141 said:

Weird....it's showing up on both my work and home computer.

Anyway, it's Chemsearch Thread-Eze Ultra. I'll have more feedback on it once I put it to the test on some of my own personal stuff, but supposedly it's great for anything....even brake slider pins where they normally caution you against using Anti-Seize because once the carrier lubricant evaporates the aluminum flakes will actually cause the sliders to bind worse than if they were dry.

Click to expand...

It's working now, I don't know why it wasn't the other day. Thanks.

i know this is an old thread but hopefully someone will see thins and help me out. i saw on here that there was a small talk about turbine housing studs to the manifold. i was wondering if someone could help me find some. i dont want to spend an arm and a leg on them but i dont want the cheapest kind either. ive searched on here and google i cant find anything with a link to a set of them. thanks in advance.. i hope

bjjnerd85 said:

i know this is an old thread but hopefully someone will see thins and help me out. i saw on here that there was a small talk about turbine housing studs to the manifold. i was wondering if someone could help me find some. i dont want to spend an arm and a leg on them but i dont want the cheapest kind either. ive searched on here and google i cant find anything with a link to a set of them. thanks in advance.. i hope

Click to expand...

Click the logo!

thanks for that, but those are the bolts. i know where to get those and the washers, but im looking for studs. i dont have the clearence for bolts with the new tubular manifold im putting on. so i need a stud kit. thanks tho. if you know where some studs are tho lemme know!

lewishamilton said:

Click the logo!

Click to expand...

That's a bolt, not a stud.

OEM Turbo to Manifold Stud : JNZ Tuning

If you need short ones for a tubular manifold, the one for the turbo to o2 housing should work well.

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3122

As for the original topic, it also helps a lot to break them loose with an impact gun while everything's still hot.

Yes, do NOT use regular anti-seize, you have to use the high temp stuff or it acts more like glue than anti-seize.

I have longer bolts with nuts holding my 16G on because of messed up the threads in the turbine housing, which I actually like other than it's a bit of a hassle holding the nuts during removal or reinstallation.

I would recomend rethreading the holes or drilling them out and helicoiling them bc I had a bolt with a nut on mine when I baught it from the previous owner and all that did was waller out and ruin the holes they were in. So I had to heilcoil them to fix it. The nuts on the backside are a no go in my book.